nipper

Smoke test? I always used a hose to the ear to find the leak, if not, a bottle of carb cleaner or spray bottle of water to try to find a change in RPM when the engine sucks in the spray.

Hrmm, that gauge is steady but a little low. Can you do the gauge again while goosing the engine? What is your elevation ( to know for correcting the vac gauge reading )? Have you retimed the engine? The bouncing needle can point to the timing being slightly off or worn valve guides (but usually a little more needle movement) http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=457

Wow everything is so complicated, whne it is really easy. First off you need a chicken that was born on the night of a new moon when capricon is setting and venus is rising ... or With the system drained and on level ground. Start car. SLOWLY add coolant (50/50 premix no tap water) until the radiator is full Monitor the temp gauge and wait for some overflow from the radiator neck. This will indicate the T-stat has opened. The coolant will go down and drop, now SLOWLY add more coolant till full. Put cap on radiator. Fill overflow to hot line. Drive car around block, shut off, allow to cool. Repeat after car cools off. That's it. This works on almost every car and has since the dawn of water cooled time.

I would have the heads pulled and bent valves replaced. There is no need for a new engine unless there are other secrets your keeping from us.

yes inspect that driveshaft and carrier bearing sooner then later. if it is the problem and lets go it can do major damage.

Head gasket thickness wont make that much of a differnce as the tensioner can make up for it. one tooth off can account for a lot of problems.

Watch rear diff ratios. I would imagine they are different between the outback and the Imp, but I am not sure, just something to be aware of.

Glad someone else was getting confused too Neutral safety switch is called a inhibitor switch (on the automatics). According to this post http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/34037-neutral-safety-switch-manual-trans.html (since it is the OB forum i will post the last thread here) "Just recently bought a neutral safety switch for my 98 Outback manual trans. So yes they do have them. I was having an erratic idle and hesitation at constant speeds. It seemed to help." I dont know if that applies to this situation, but since we are not sure what we have here. Can someone decode the S?N on the transmission to see what we have?

Vacuum gauge, http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm

You may want to get an Ecu from a manual tranny car

You can basically trust the information these guys are giving you here. Dealers dont want you to fix your car unless they can charge you through the nose for it. Also they may be limited by law what they can tell you since it involves emissions that they arent allowed to modify.

Dealer wont know unless he is a car guy. Junk yards wont kow either as they want to sell you what you had, especially if it is harder to find (more expensive). Quite a few people have droped in 2.2's where a 2.5 once lived, it's common to do.

What cams and compression ratio are you running now? How is the knock sensor and EGR valve/controls. Get yourself a vacuum gauge (poor unloved tool that is a really handy and should be a must for stuff like this) and tell us what it does.

For the record i am the one that sent you over from the Justy Forum, i am glad you found us. Subarus tend to be giant Lego's A lot of parts are all interchangeable.

Interesting. Going through haggerty was 270. Going through E Surance which works with haggerty was 325. i smell a rat.

Great vid, the commentator has to go. Not knowing the difference between 4wd and AWD .

Maybe Haggarty has changed since anyone looked into it, but they had pull down menus for driveway, gargage, car port, street etc.

In winter the Justy doesnt move out of the driveway, same for the heat of the summer. The justy saw less then 3000 miles last year, hence why I am looking. My 2005 Outback is my daily driver.

Haggarty has a no garage option. Grundy says it must be garaged. Haggarty i put in 5000 miles a year, they seemed liberal on where you could drive (i ticked off everything but commuting to work). Grundy limited you to 2500 miles a year in the fine print. Keeping in mind this was 2 am so i may have read it wrong. Haggarty had a minimum value of 5000.00 (easy enough to do with a truly mint Justy as I have seen them go for low 4's here). Haggarty was 270 a year, Grundy was 83.00 and required you to be near your car at all times. Right now I pay 293 every 6 months for basic insurance. I will be researching it more, but I am switching as I only do about 3-4000 miles a year in the Justy.

Look hard as it will be wrapped in electrical tape. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/trailer-wiring-harness-adaptor-21230.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/28799-trailer-light-harness-1997-outback-where.html http://www.etrailer.com/t1-1999_Subaru_Legacy.htm hope that helps. it is there you have to hunt for it.

The Justy has turned 25 so it is can now have historic insurance. I just tried Haggerty for giggles and they come in at 270 @ 5000 stated value and 5000 miles a year use. Considering thats what I pay for it now for 6 months for regular no thrills bare bones insurance, i will be doing this when my renewal comes up. Anyone else have historic insurance on their sooby and who do they use. Thanks.

Never ever reuse those clips, there is your problem most likely.

did you check both sides of the car. Sometimes they are on the wrong side.

And it is really tough on tires

hrmm, i would look on the Yahoo group for the subaru VW van conversions i thihnk they have a work around for it