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Everything posted by nipper
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not the headlight switch as that just sends a signal to the controller that does all the work. So in the words of Click and Clack, when was the accident? Check your fusable links to make sure they havent corroded to the point that they are causing odd things to happen. Make sure none of your brake lights have shorted filaments.
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It is really easy to check these sensors if the car will crank. The haynes manual goes into the pattern of the pulses but all you need is a analog multi meter (you can use digital but a needled has its uses). I vote for a mechanical problem. When the engine suddenly stops for some reason other then the normal shutting off of the ignition, it will make the TB jump.
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One mans "A bit of a pain" could be another mans week long project.
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- Transmission
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Car plunges head first into hole after driveway crumbles, swallowing Long Island womanA 69-year-old Long Island woman was swallowed up by a hole in her home's driveway when the pavement crumbled beneath her car without warning. "There was no sound. The car just slid into the ground," Gayle Sorrentino of Rockville Centre said of the frightful experience Friday afternoon. "The car went in at like a straight angle," she described the estimated 15-foot head first plunge. "I pulled in looking at my beautiful backyard and then I was looking at a mound of dirt. Incredibly the retiree, who was returning from an acupuncture appointment NBC reported and parking where she normally does, found herself uninjured but trapped. Outside her windows she nervously watched as dirt steadily slid in around her making her fear that at any moment, it could get bigger. Within minutes of her 911 call from her cell phone, the fire department was at the scene with a ladder at her side window, police confirmed. By late Friday evening the immediate cause of the hole wasn't known. Police believe it is a cesspool and its top simply caved, said Rockville Officer Julie Grilli. "It's very out of the norm," she told the Daily News. Grilli called it the first incident of its kind for the area. As a precaution Sorrentino's driveway was cordoned off while sand was filled in. As for her car, a white Subaru Outback, she exclaimed, "It looks perfectly fine!" "They were able to drive it, down the driveway and park it on the street, so it's functional," she gushed. "It's like a little miracle." Sorrentino, who described herself as standing straight up in the vertically-propped vehicle, was then safely able to climb out.
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once again incorrect gear ratio means the computer is calling for an upshift but the transmission wont do it. refrain from redline testing as you dont know how good the engine is either, and dont want to major issues on your hands.
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ABS is to maintain control on slippery surfaces, not to stop shorter. ABS i Anti Lock Brakes, meaning it keeps the breaks from locking up. In order to do this it has to release the brakes to keep wheels turning. you still MUST reduce your driving speed for the conditions, have proper tires, and brake sooner in winter weather. My 97 the ABS would make for some exciting times, but my 05 no longer has these issues, it seems to be programmed better, but still I must drive slower and allow for more breaking distance. I dont think there is anything wrong with your ABS, just possibly your over-driving for conditions and expecting a computer to overcome physics.
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If it just needs a charge from an external source, there is a problem. Check with the basics, make sure your battery terminals are clean. Then have the battery nad system load tested on the car.
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- ABS
- Hill assist
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ah ok, forgot about that, im going with that being the reason it being in the auction.
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First i will give you the optimistic news - possibilities: - Low transmission fluid level - Dirty transmission fluid - Faulty Shift Solenoids - Shift Solenoids harness is open or shorted - Shift Solenoids circuit poot electrical connection - Transmission mechanical problems - Transmission hydraulic control circuit Now the reality - it is telling you the computer told the car to upshift, and it refused to. This is a very rare code in a subaru. You may want to check to see if the solenoid is good, but my gut tells me since this is a auction car, it is a bad tranny. May we ask how much you paid for the car, I'm curious.
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Have a question about the Crosstrek? Ask an owner!
nipper replied to subeman90's topic in Crosstrek "XV"
That is an exhaust hanger. Life is hard under the car. That is most likely surface rust. This is worse then i like to see, but our cars have seen quite a lot of salt this season. Since the car is new, I would keep an eye on it, do regular car washes in winter (especially undercar). Report it at the next service interval. I have never seen an exhaust bracket fail as it is rather substantial, usually it is a exhaust joint after many years. -
I have used used pumps with no issues. You may or may not be able to get one easily depending upon how your local yard deals with fuel tanks. The fuel pump pressurizes the system when you turn the starter switch, and starts the pump when the car actually starts. It stops the car from flooding or using uo needless power when the car is only in the on position (and not started), so thats normal.
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Snow--park to back up or go forward?
nipper replied to Wildpaint's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
I have always backed in myself. When the street gets plowed in it helps to have a little more weight in the nose to push through. it also helps to keep momentum going to get out of the driveway. -
Just a little fyi, don't just throw parts at a problem, even in desperation, as you can see it can run a bil up quickly. You may be even around the amount of money a shop may have charged you to fix the car. Have you tried choking off the fuel pressure regulator to see if the car starts. Was there a whining noise coming from the back of the car? You get fuel pumping in the start position, but not the run position? How had the car been running up to this point? 420 code is most likely a bad O2 sensor, but wont keep the car from running.
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Codes are ONLY A TOOL. They will not tell you if a clutch in the transmission is cooked, if a pump failed, if a shaft has snapped. All they will tel you is that some electronic doodad is out of spec and maybe if you are lucky why it is out of spec or not working. OBDII is ONLY for the engine , and that is for things emission related. Being a auction car who knows what lurks in there.
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Well now we know why it was in the auction.
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Alas, this is not boding well. Could be a puter issue, rare but it happens. There are a few ways these things die that arent worth repairing (as there is an ample supply) - Loss of Reverse - Clutch is cooked - Loss of 4th (will ever slip or wont upshift) Eventually third will be lost too.- cooked clutch pack - Will not upshift from 1st - Pump can not make enough pressure to upshift. On some years there is a shuft dealy from R to D but that is solvable. The next step would be if you wanted confirmation is to have a real tranny shop look at it and take some pressure readings. You may luck out and have it be a valve body issue. You can also try disconnecting the transmission harness plug that is under the hood (I have to look to see which one it is, its a large one) that forces the transmission to go into limp mode and shift purely mechanically. That totally rules out anything computer related Did this happen suddenly or has it been acting oddly for a while.
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Mysterious? Since when? They are very straight forward as far as automatic transmissions go. Phase 1 4eats you can still pull the codes on. Not terribly expensive to get a used one and put it in. Not often that they have a problem that doesnt fall into the catagories of - dirty/low fluid; Torque Bind; Shift delay; or failure. Those are catagories not in order of incidents. I do agree whoever that there was a reason that car was in an auction. CHeck fluid condition (look smell) and go from there, Is it being held in 1st gear or when it upsifts does it slip? What happens when you shift it manually?
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I had this problem at one time, no one could figure it out untill the problem got worse. It was frame rot. The front frame rails kept pulling the cv joints apart (in a nutshell). Check your frame make sure it 's not weakened.
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- 1991loyale wagon
- axle
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