nipper

Are we over thinking this and could it be as simple as a stretched out cable or broken cable bracket.

First symptom is a delay going from reverse to drive. The next symptom is a delay between pressing the gas and the car actually moving at a traffic light. This is neither of these. This is more akin to finding someone cold and pale as a symptom of death (get me my poking stick). If this isnt a linkage failure, a disconnected harness, it is a dead transmission. The delay gives lots and lots of warning and engagement lag before it quits.

There is a yahoo group dedicated to these conversions. they have them down pat.

Anything is going to be hard to find this week on short notice.

Cam and main seals. Idlers, tensioner water pump, T-stat (from Subaru). New Rad Cap. PCV valve.

We run into this all the time when we go wheelin as someone from NJ just loves to teach their sooby how to swim (it never learns). Usually it is as simple as just swapping ECU's and the car starts and runs. We have yet to have one swallow water (that you have to work at) but odds are it will need an oil change, tranny fluid change, gear oil change.

Lets hope it is not what i think it is. It is unusual to just loose all forward motion without a hint of trouble beforehand. The reverse mechanical are used less then the forward ones, and reverse uses a higher internal pressure then drive, so you can have a blown transmission and still be able to back up. Will it move when the car is cold as opposed to warm.The inhibitor switch has 12 pins (3 x 4). Looking at the FSM with new style wiring diagrams under the transmission section I see nothing that describes that connector. It doesnt even match an O2 sensor pinout. What color is it, and what numbers are on the connector. Also see if you can find the mating harness/plug anywhere.

Ok then you probably need them.

Yes you need the bearing, Are all the parts on two sides of the car or just one.

Lets back up a bit. What were your initial complaints that caused you to take the car into the shop to begin with. How are your front tires wearing. How many miles on the car. How well does the car track. Does the car go where you point it on a straight road. When do these things become a driving hazard? Answer the above first, and if your wheel bearing is noisy, you need one.

And not to mention the pans dont always come off easily and may get distored in the process, making leaks where there were none before.

It is not unusual, but the conditions have to be just right. I have had quite a few cars do it over the years, and some not at all.

But Canadian part prices are higher no?

This seems high. This is a job any shop can do so get another opinion.

This is not uncommon as snow will get into places that rain won't. Sounds lormal if it was a really powdery snow and no cabin filter

Did you take the harness from the donor car, as that tends to make these swaps easier.

No one is perfect.

Not very well. Cvts in general are still in the baby stage of engineering and can handle only so much horse power (like the early transverse FWD cars). But someone does have to go first ....

Since you rebuilt your cooling system (you skipped a new cap) you don't need it, especially for this car. The biggest issue with these cars today is the radiators falling apart from old age, and you solved that.

If it was O rings it would have been fixed Drivers side boot.

Yes my first thought was a bad throw out bearing, but the heating and lubricaiting of the shaft to correct it the first time didnt seem to work with that theory. What I am a bit worried about if he damaged the clutch fork shaft or hole.

Well this is the first one for the 05. With 188K on it it is due, and leaking, and stinking up the car.

Dont like your warrenty ?

The clutch fork shaft may have been on its way out and finally seized.I dont know if a propane torch will have enough heat as the bell housing is a pretty big heat sink. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm http://www.ehow.com/about_6157262_symptoms-bad-egr-valve_.html Pic from workshop manual would be good.

Why fix something that is not broken, and the age of your car, if there is a leak I dont think would solve it. What issues are you having if any?