nipper

I was replacing mine once a year. I just used to cut them all off of every sooby i found in scrap yards to have a stock of them. The cause is that over the years of heating and cooling the blade connector loosens up ( or the wire to it corrodes) and causes the connection to overheat, melting the socket.

I am going to take a shot in the dark here, and guess it is the engine temp sensor. Also new plugs will help. Get a new sensor they are'nt that expensive. It is very possible that with age things have gone bad. The ACV (I am assuming thats the idle air control) do get clogged with time. The air flow sensor first check the obvious things, like vacuum leaks. Sometimes a CTS can pass a bench test and still fail. They sometimes develop dead spots in them. nah this isnt a long post, this is rather short What other maint has the car had.

No and no, but how many miles are on your car. it can be that you needed new tie rods, and that is something the very inept 1st shop did not catch (hence forth known as idiots). Before you do a wheel alignment on car you check to see if the steering wheel is straight and the front end components are good (ball joints tie rods, bushings etc). If any part is worn, you can not do a good alignment. The only thing that can really get damaged is the clock spring in the steering wheel.

Maybe try some sea foam first. The compression isnt horrible so stuck/gummed/bad oil rings really are all thats left. What do the plugs look like?

There is a relay in the fan circuit i do beleive. If the blower motor fuse is ok I would check that next.

My bad, i lost a zero in all the coding. Is the car smoking? I havent seen an oil burner like this in a while. Lets back up a bit, was this engine cooked due to a failed headgasket?

Cable is a very good possability. Have someone press the clutch pedal and see how much the fork moves. if the cable is stretched it will be obvious. Did you replace the throw out bearing?

They really screwed up on the wheel alignment and were very lazy about it. Fairtax is correct, and lets hope the clock spring is ok.

1qt every 3k is not horrible, especially at that mileage. Have you changed the PCV valve and checked the PCV hoses to make sure they are not clogged?

Is this a vacum operated system? I think it is (I may be wrong). If so then it is as simple as a vacumm leak somewhere between the manifold and the HVAC control. Are talking about the fan still not blowing or air not being redirected or both.

Use Subaru head gaskets. It is a lot of work to take a chance on aftermarket gaskets.

You can actually take a hose with a light mist and work your way around the engine compartment. Also do it UNDER the engine too kaing sure to get the engine temp sensor wire, and the cam and crank position wires

I am helping a friend diagnose his CVT. The issue is that it acts like a clutch is slipping when you first press the gas, when you back off it grabs and the car pulls fine. The fluid has been changed with CVT fluid. The brushes were worn and have been replaced with new one. The throttle cable for the transmission has been adjusted (and that did help somewhat as it was loose). The car has almost 60,000 miles on it and it has 4wd. The check ECVT light is flashing and most the codes come up with a bad PRNDS switch and a few other oddballs. I am having him check all the harnesses and plugs to make sure everything is good as this car did not get any TLC from the past owner. R Ds and D all feel and act the same. A trnasmission shop checked the internal pressures and they were deemed good. The remaining possibilities are a bad ECVT computer or a bad electro clutch. Ideas? Suggestions?

And the answer is yes.

Still getting used to the new format, and if your going to quote fault codes, share what they mean as some of us would still like to look them up and it saves us the work So have you or have you not replaced the wheel sensor and still have code 26?

look at the wheel sensors, are they perfectly cylindrical in shape? If they have worn/eroded edges they will not function properly. What year is your car so I can look up the codes.

OH GOD PLEASE DONT MAKE ME DO THAT AGAIN!!! I hate the new FSM style. it makes nipper angry, nipper wants to smash things... Anyways. Under the relay cover (under the hood) is the FWD "switch". they call it a switch now, well aint that fancy. Uppity manual. Anyways... Put a spare fuse in the spot marked FWD switch, and that should energize the Duty C solenoid to hold it open and disable the AWD The AWD light shoul be on on the dash. If it is a bad solenoid there should be no change. If it is mechanical there should be a change.

What has been done to it to try and find the problem, or maybe I shouldnt ask and we start over from scratch. How many miles. When did this start happenining Are you the original owner. When was the last time it had the timing belt changed and a full tuneup.

YAY i havent had to say this in AGES, i am still needed! You never fill any car without it running, it will guarantee you an air bubble. -start car -slowly add coolant till the system is full -wait for a surge out of the radiator (the thermostat openinig) -top off coolant -replace cap drive around block -shut off car (make sure overflow is full) and let cool -check coolant level, repeat once (if necassary). I would also replace the radiator cap if this is the 2nd belt change. I always filled a cylinder with rope compressed the rope then tightened the bolt. You can jam something in the bell housing too. Old Blu died a slow painful drowning death with Sandy. The Justy is alive and well. Now I have an 05 Outback, i miss blu.

This sounds like you may be a tooth off and not have realized it at the time. That does happen to people.

And again! http://jalopnik.com/the-ten-new-cars-our-readers-most-recommend-1410824060

How many miles are on the car?

In all fairness, all dealerships will say the same thing if they wanted to avoid the issue. The spec that used to stand (and i looked all over teh SAE spec books and can't find it) is down to 600 miles is acceptable, It does depend upon the dealer, who your reginal rep is, and how much you push/shmooze/cajole subaru. Typical i usually 1qt every 5 k or less, as some of the oil vaporizes as it is used for cooling the piston skirts. Your consumption is high and unusual, maybe start a new thread and see if there is anything we can do about it to help you out?

Belt is slipping, check the idler pully assembly. not unusual for them to go bad when they are this old.