nipper

Lets assume all the tires match and are properly inflated. How many miles on the car. What condition were the tires in that you just replaced. And everything ^ he said.

not many things will keep a subaru from starting. Some of them are a bad crank sensor, a bad engine temp sensor, jumped timing belt. And of course thats assuming you have spark and fuel and squish. A jumped timing belt will stop the squish. how many miles are on it.

Does this have an aftermarket stereo in it?

What make of autometer gauges? They usually have a signal wire that taps into a dash light looking for a signal that the lights are on to dim the gauges.

Yes, since it also diagnoses mechanical stuff, like valves, rings, collapsed clogged exhaust.

Cheap fix on the shileds, use large cheap hose clamps on the shields. It also makes for easy and cheap way to rule out things.

it is an external sensor. I am not sure where it is on here, been ages since I have seen one. On newer subarus it is on the passenger side strut tower, and has a hose attached to it as it does double duty, on yours I dont remember

http://www.leoneturbo.com/docs/EA81_SPI_guide.pdf All EA81's (talking non-turbo here) were equipped with carburetors from the factory. Either the Hitachi 2 barrel, or the Carter-Weber single barrel. Both have their array of problems, are rather anemic in the performance department, and have a vast array of complicated vacuum lines. As well as extra systems to make them economical, and environmentally friendly - even to the point of using computers to control the carburet or mixture adjustments. Fortunately, Subaru gave us an excelent upgrade path. In 1986, Subaru introduced the Single Point Fuel Injection (SPFI) to the US market on it's EA82 engine. This engine happens to share the exact same intake ports on the heads, and the same overall length for the intake manifold as the EA81. Sadly the EA82 engine, while sporting an almost indestructible, very simple fuel injection system, has troublesome timing belts, is prone to ticking lifters, and (because of the timing belt arrangement) can be difficult and time-consumeing to work on. It also does not fit in the EA81 vehicle engine bay without modifications to the frame rails, and moveing the hill-holder valve. Because of the similarities between the manifolds, the almost self contained fuel injection manifold from the EA82 bolts straight onto the EA81 engine with minimal modifications

The plug is normally on the drivers side behind the access panel for the bulbs. It is taped to the tail light harness so may take a little hunting. Occasionally it is on the pass side, no one knows why.

It actually tells you there was an electrical failure in the previous operation cycle. I am slightly confused, can be me not you. Does this have an external can type transmission filter you are talking about dropping in motor oil? I would do a full flush of the transmission, as sometimes that works wonders on subaru transmissions. How does the car behave when turning a tight circle?

Glove box light only works when the lights are on.

Like Cougar said there are instances when you can not use a self powered meter, but there is nothing on an automobile that you would encounter.

Er can you find another dealership? Digital vs analog both have their pros and cons, and depends upon the job. Digital are powered internally to power the display, analog are not. Digital work off a sampling rate to get a reading (being digital). Usually the better the gauge the higher the sampling rate. Analog is instantly reading and can sometimes pick up things the digital can't especially at really low voltages.I have seen techs use high tech digital voltage analyzers and pass bad alternators because they had no idea what all the pointed lines meant on the readout, where an analog would have picked up a bad alt. I would go around the service manager and talk directly to the mechanic that worked on the car. I suspect the service manager (who does not need to be a mechanic, tech, or even know how to use a screwdriver) is just a delegator or paper pusher in this dealership. In some dealerships they are kick rump roast, in others they need thier asses kicked.

When was the last time the car had a real tuneup? When you put the car in gear the engine gets a drag on it from the torque converter. If you need a tune-up badly this can happen. A vacuum leak is another possible cause. Another possibility (which was an old GM problem and almost unheard of in other cars)) is for some reason the clutch on the torque converter may be locking up, but I cant figure out the scenario that would cause this to happen. Maybe a bad inhibitor switch? Was there any CEL lights at any time? Are you saying the tranny was low on fluid when this happened?

get your volt meter out again. get out the hose. Wet down your accessory drive belt and see what happens. Spray water up under the car like the car wash would and see if it happens again. The key here is to try to reproduce it so you can tell the dealer what you found, not so much to fix it yourself.

Toolbird. Two things are possible. One is a weak Altanator. The hard brakes is the check valve inside the vac line from the manifold to the master cylinder. it wont be a problem after the car is started and you pump the brakes a few times before you move the car in winter.

That rev limiter you are hitting is "limp mode". A lack of a VSS signal will put the car in limp mode.

Sweet!

If it is the U joint it is an easy test. Spray the joint with white lithium grease heavily. The lumpyness will go away. I drove Blu like this till his death for a few years, just had to lubricate the joint every few months.

Actually the temps dropping for a short time is good. PS racks when they fail will be harder to turn when cold, once the fluid warms up it is almost normal. There is always some flex in the rotors, You may have a hard spot in rotor or just rust from sitting that you are feeling. Drive it a bit and see what happens. DO a hard breaking from 50 and see if it pulses.

If your bellows are full of fluid the rack seals have failed. You need to get a good used rack. Don't go rebuilt, i tried and tried and they all sucked

Depends upon the color, the location the enviorment. SUn is a beast. My Justy, any surface that was not exposed directly to the sun has its original color and shine, whil the roof hood and rear hatch just is completely sunbaked.

I wouldn't want to be blamed for 300,000 mile tie rods failing...LOL SEE It is Grossgary's fault!

When was the last time you changed the transmission fluid, that can work wonders on these transmissions, getting rid of any delays in action.

Mechanical ones have a delay too. The viscous coupling has to warm up to thicken to cause the torque split.