nipper

Well at least we will know he will never reproduce....

Sheesh 6 mouse clicks and it still won't download... http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15247&highlight=diesel http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15000&highlight=diesel http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14293&highlight=diesel

What he said.

On the outback board there are quite a few. Some of them are whining because they dont have automatic nose blowers or some such things. The one thing they do seem to have a legit concern about (but is true to all diesels) is the passenger cabin seems to be slow to warm up. Most these complaints are coming from sweeden and norway. Also under heavy acceleration they smoke somewhat (again diesels do that). Otherwise they seem happy with them. nipper

The tranny is fine, just too much money. nipper

i did this when i stripped a CV joint in my GL, no damage. nipper

To rule out the TC coming in and out, put the car in D3 and let us know what happens. A tuneup whenever you get a used car is generally a good idea, but even this car is a bit new to need one. A fuel filter would not be a bad idea. nipper

Buy a cheap mechanical gauge and put it on the car, something with a 80 psi limit so we can guestimate the oil pressure better. Get a decent size gauge as it is easier to read. nipper

Sounds like a clogged cat. Put a vacume gauge on the car then tell us exactly what it does when the condition happens. Any CEL lights? Any flashing tranny light at startup? What happens if you downshift to 3rd? nipper

i personally dont like the numbers. I think they are still too low for a car that young. They are OK numbers, but not great numbers, i think you can do better. There should be minimal increase or none between wet and dry numbers. An increase of 60 psi between wet and dry tells me the rings have some wear on them. nipper

I dont know if i like the full restoration. Regan, love him or hate him, was a former President, and was most likely responsible for most the dings, dents, scratches and sweat marks in the car. Sort of like washing the Shroud Of Turin to get that nasty stain out.... nipper

This has been posted once already, but still pretty. nipper

Ignore this post

You need to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge put on the car to see what the pressures are. Several possabilities are the used engine has bad bearings, the oil is getting dilluted by gas or coolant. ALso check your charging system voltage. You may also try a thinner oil. The light goes out because as the oil warms up, it thins out and flows better.

Wite lithium grease should be used on all dorr hinges, locks etc. Car may just need a good lcok cleaning then re-lubing. nipper

That was the driving force behind 100,000 mile plug changes. Some plugs are just impossible to get too. They used the old model that a owner would be selling the car after 3-4 years and would never have to face that repair bill. Step 1 - remove engine Step 2 - remove plugs. nipper

Its been a while, but do they still do it with the engine running. Sun machines would kill a cylinder and analyze the rpm drop to come up with a (pretty good) compression number. I never liked those that did it on cranking speed, too many variables to give a false number. nipper

Something is not kosher here, i mean at that mileage , its just past puberty for a subaru... nipper

When in doubt, walk away. How did they do the compression tests? And if those numbers are correct it would need a ring job, which is very unusual for soobies as one of the plusses of the opposed piston is that they dont wear like that normally. nipper

Not really, cars are coming off lease, people loosing jobs. Only issue there is is i don't have one. People may want the new outback or forester. nipper

They should be alot higher then that actually. I would consider that a tired engine. Compresion numbers are not only the PSi but the difference between cylinders. one is a sign of engine wear (similar numbers) the other is usually valves or HG (one number low) and two numbers on the same side high/low a timing belt. I can't find my manual right now but speaking generally I would expect 175 psi or higher on a subaru engine. On other engines i look at the mileage and make a judgment call. At that Psi, you should notice a loss of power, maybe hard starting when cold, signs of oil burning. Maybe its just a mistake on thier part. BTW on a sooby a compression test isnt always conclusive on a bad HG. the next step would be to do a wet vs dry test to see if the numbers come up, but I tend to doubt the numbers you have more then doubt the engine

Another interesting point to add, that no one has discussed yet. Heat. There is a good discussion on the outback board from some scandanavians on how the cassenger compartment heat works. i hate to admit that i did not follwo it, but in the pieces i saw, it seems they use a heat pump (AC in reverse) and some other tricks to get enough heat in the passenger compartment. Diesels do not have a lot of waste heat, which is why they are so effecient. In Gas engines waste heat is managed by the cooling system (not including exhaust gasses). So this is not going to be a straight bolt in by any stretch of the imagination. But it is fun to talk about. nipper

i would suspect a stuck caliper first. nipper

Our going to need the transmission too. the CI (compression ignition) engine puts out a lot of torque at lower rpms, and the tranny is geard for that. A SI (spark Ignition) engine's transmission mated up to DI engine will make it a dog. nipper

The gear oil is thick. There is zero resistance. the movement you are seeing is not real force, just the thick fluid (like molases) tranmitting force. Its not unusual. nipper