nipper

I hate telling someone to thorw parts at a problem, but since its an engine i am not familair with in a country i dont know and my arms don't reach ... If its cheap enough then I say we try it. Does this have an OBDII connector on it or a CEL on?

I would just risk throing a temp sensor at it and see if that works. I tried finding info on the net but having no luck. It really sounds like its either getting too much fuel or the timing is off. How mechanical are you?

!70 can be timing belt, O2 sensor, who knows what else. Get the codes so we can have a starting point.

Somputer only controls the boom, mechanically the suck and squish are still gears and belts. Without those two you dont get the boom, hence the smoke. Even a burnt valve may cause a backfire, but not smoke through the intake.

140,000 miles I would say a full valve job. Otherwise you may have an engine that doesnt run smoothly at idle, but I still think its out of time. nipper

It may not be a gas tank leak as much a filler neck issue. Snag the car and replace the filler neck or tank. Its a great deal. nipper

Get a better computer. This is getting frustraiting *vent alert* We need the mileage on the car to help tell you whats wrong with it! *vent alert over* Disconnect the battery for ten minutes see if the codes clear, then when the CEL comes back on, get the codes read. Right now you probably have multiplee codes in there. nipper

OK i misread that, i thought it was a 2.0T. Hold a peice of paper up to the exhuast pipe. Have someone crank the car engine. If the paper gets sucked to the tail pipe the engine timing is off, bigtime. nipper

double check your timing. Many a soul have come on here that were "100% sure" they had the timing right only to have it wrong. www.endwrench.com will help They dont have the turbo engines listed there, but they have the 2.2 timing which should be similar. If the engine ran before you did this I'm betting the timing is off. If it did not I'm betting on bent valves. nipper

They have differnt computers because th computers do differnt things. In an auto it needs to know what gear the car is in, it needs a torque reading sometimes, and it interacts with the TCU to shut off/modify/etc cylinder firing during shifts. Thats just to name a few. No reason to put a puter in a car that doesnt need to know these things, as it costs money. I cant give you an absolute answer (as I dont remeber it) but someone else will. nipper

In actuality, almost all FI engines have the same basic parts. I am going to say its a coolant temp sensor. nipper

How many miles on this engine? When was the timing belt done? Are you electing a pope? (hehehehe) nipper

hrmmmmmmmmmmmmm

The only question is how it would do in zero degree weather, but excellant otherwise. nipper

Four things. 1- work clean 2- Assmebly lube is your freind 3- Take pictures 4- Number everything or refernce it as to where it orignally came from. This is a bit of overkill, but for someone who has never rebuilt an engine before its a good thing. Some things need to go back to where they came from, some dont, but its just easier to do it as a general rule. Get a haynes manaul and read it completly as to the engine section. I can send you a FSM section on the engine, read that too before starting. Just msg me with your email and which engine you are using. nipper

Just keep in mind that they are slow to ship .. Basically cause they are upsdie down and the springs keep falling out of the boxes nipper PS with the exchange rate that may not be too bad.

now now we like our pansies too welcome nipper

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=160263#post160263 Same thing on the other board nipper

I think idf it was that bad he would have other much bigger problems. nipper

Snow tires especially studed will drop MPG. Have you even popped the hood out of curisoity and looked to see what is burning? Sounds like a torn CV joint boot. nipper

Ive always reused the head bolts. The head bolts are stronger then the aluminum block so its really hard to stretch them out. Even subaru doesnt recomend replacing them. You can reuse the case bolts. Thats a good price on the crank. nipper

Actually since your going to pull the heads it makes it a bit easier. Always buy from a place with a warrenty. Next pull the plugs and inspect them, they should all look the same. Check to make sure the timing belt is in time and hasnt jumped. Does it still have a thermostat (they get removed in the false hope of tring to halt overheating). ROck the crankshaft back and forth and listen for any knocking noise. Inspect the PCV line for any oil film. If an engine is badly overheated the cylinder liner can shift and that can not be fixed. If that is the case there would be signs of recent work being done to the heads, as that is only found out after a HG is done. The other failure mode is that the engine gets cooked, and so does the oil. If the oil isnt changed it can take out the connecting rod bearing. If your going to build a monster engine, at that mileage you really should replace the bearings and rings, and really beef it up. There also are some overheat tabs, but for the life of me i can not remember the details about them. nipper

yup we all go to radioshack for the bulbs. nipper

Thats an SVX, a completly different animal. Also its not a fuel filter but an in line tranny filter. nipper

http://www.cs.rochester.edu/u/jag/vw/#engine vw vanagon diesels. nipper