nipper

Therer is a alot of engineering in rope, be it nylon, cotton or steel. Ir the center core that can't be seen. Once that is loaded enough times the rope is retired. nipper

You may have an intermittent Duty C failure. Do not hesitate taking this to a dealer, as it can be the differnce between a 250 dollar repair and a 850.00 Repair. Grossgary is correct. I dont think a fluid change will help you out, but it doesnt hurt. Your getting lucky as the car is giving you a heads up (the equivilant of tightness in your chest) before major AWD issues show up. Your fluid isnt overheating as much as you have an electrical issue. If it was truly overheating, just restarting the car wouldnt get rid of the light. good luck nipper

Or just let the car run for 15 minutes to warm up. In botter cold synthetic will help, but do you really want to be chainging fluid in this bitter cold right now? When it gets this cold no car is just start and go. nipper

Are you sure of that? Usually the take up all the slack during an impact. I never heard of them locking the belts so they are unusuable, that would be unsafe post colision maybe making it hard to remove the belt.

But does it burn oil now?

Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar. Sometimes an over heat is a simple issue, and since the engine didnt peg the gauge, i think he's fine. Doesnt mean a HG can't pop tomorrow, doesnt mean it is going to pop at all. nipper PS the subaru treatment is like chicken soup. Just one can't hurt. He should have his T-stat changed now too since the system will be drained of coolant just to as a preventative measure.

Does this have a car alarm on it? One quick way to rule out a battery cable, use a jumper cable from the battery to the starter then see if it wil start. Same can be done for the ground, but do one at a time. nipper

The motor does make enough torque if you multiply it by the length of the arms on the pivots. It is a common thing to srip/damage or have the bolts loosen if you turn the wipers on when they are frozen to the windshield. This is why the shafts are made of steel and the base of the arms alumunim, to protect the linkage and the motor. Wiper motors are very torquey, as they have a lot of force to deal with at highway speeds. do NOT use a hairdrier, you may crack the windshield wuth the sudden temperiture change on a frozen windshield. Use the cars own defrosters. nipper

Structural dirt that is ...

I got my lift kit from Allied Armament. Technically its not that hard to do, but it was a real PITA to get some of those body bolts to come off, and there was some minor fabricating involved. nipper

Your just going to break it again nipper

Yes its considered damaged now, if it was just frayed they would have replaced it. The 15 year time limit is a soft limit, as thats how long they expect to need to have an inventory of that kind of part on hand. You may have affected the performance of the seatbelt by trying to stop the fraying the way you did. Seat belts stretch under load to halp absorb the impact. By using a traditional method of melting the nylon fibers together, you may have stopped this ability. nipper

Or they WERE frozen and now the wiper arms are stripped. The washer nozzles may just be frozen, I wouldnt be too worried about that. As the car warms up they should start to work. nipper

It's not a joke. And yes you could before you hot knifed it, now I doubt it. Damage isnt covered. nipper

Can also be a tired diaphram. Just throw a vac gauge on the eingine to make sure you have a healthy enough vac at that port. nipper

man oh man my brain is off. i've made a mess of this post . Ok so its a push button 4wd on demand system. This is probably as simple as a dead vac solenoid or broken vac line in the system. I am not familiar with these so I can't swear to it, as I have never owned one. But this sounds like it whould be something simple. nipper

Partially. Replumbing the intake doesnt make more power, but it shifts the HP curve to the right. Since you have more power sooner to get the car up to speed faster, you MIGHT save a few mpg, but the feeling of extra power is real. But keep in mind that you did not add power, you just made it come on sooner, which means that the peak and valley will occure sooner too. The giant sinus cavity under the right front fender is for water seperation. The other dangly bits are for noise levels. Its one of the simplest things that you can fiddle with on the car and its reversable. nipper

Ok my fault, i thought it was an auto. Are you sure you font have awd? Usually in a manual it works or you have Torque bind How are you figuring out that you dont have it. nipper

Give that man a lollypop. Coolant Temp Sensor. Wont throw a code because the car has to be running to throw a code, and once the car starts, its no longer an issue. I bet the CTS has a prblem at the bottm end (cold) of the resistance range. nipper

Well you can try chainging the tranny fluid. Also put the car in low and see if that forces the rear wheels to engage. Its very possible that the clutches are shot that make the AWD work (slipping). Double check to make sure there is no fuse in the FWD holder under the hood. You dont say how many miules are on this car, but it sounds like the clutches are tired. nipper

Mercury switch? They do have a little pendulum counterwieght that locks them You have to get the seat belt assy at jsut-the-ever-so-perfect angle to get them to release. And if there is any boom I want to see the video. If you havent installed them yet can you post a pic, i know your camery shy but ..... as I havent seen one up close yet. nipper

Those arent mirrors, they are camera pods, the mirror display is in the center of the dash. Thats a gimmick as it is not DOT aproved. nipper

I would say pinion gear or transmission input gear. If its the pinion it will get louder with road speed, if its the input shaft bearing it will change pitch with engine RPM. nipper

We demand video ! nipper