nipper

you never want to put any kind of cleaner or solvent in a transmission. You can remove the years of gum that is holding it together. As long as you change the fluid, it will be self cleaning. Not all gum is bad. The clutches in your transmission are held together with glues. After all those miles putting in a chemical cleanser is just begging for problems. (lucas LSD additive is not a cleaning solvent so that is ok). nipper

WImps, you know you can get a sunburn when it snows outside too. And you cant tell me you dont go out in the snow, then you wouldnt own subarus would ya? :-p

How do you taste that? nipper

My goodness, some people are SOOOOOOOOOOOO nosey nipper

Year engine and how many miles please. What do you mean by "restarts" Have you inspected your front axles to make sure they are still connected to the car? It's possible a front axle is stripped internally, so it may look fine, but its just spining in the boot. i need more information nipper

There is this thing called "life". It can be wireless, and has a potential for skin cancer if you get too much of a thing called "sun". It can be found "outside" the enclosed structure you inhabit. Proceed with caution. nipper

Raccon trapped in the wheel well? nipper

No as its just one seal and i think its first gear. Limp home mode will usually put the car in a higher gear, either 2nd or 3rd so you can get home. You are also probably limited to 50 mph. nipper

Welcome and Shalom pretty cars nipper PS if you ever want to post pics directly on here, Upload to photobucket, then post the link here

You may have the bad internal seal. DId ti always have a hesitation or did it happen suddenly? Look up transmission delay. As long as the car shifts through all the gears, you should be able to drive it, just dont beat on it. nipper

Subarus regularly go over 200,000 and 300,000 miles on plain ol dino oil and synthetic. Why bother with this extra cost when its not needed. nipper

prvt me with your email i have it for a 1998 nipper

http://www.endwrench.com/archive/sysdrive.html maybe there? nipper

It can be that the timing belt has jumped a tooth. SInce you have all the leaking seals, it may be time to bite the bullit and : Replace timing belt Tensioner Idler Cam Seals Main Seal Waterpump Thermostat radiator Cap Soobys dont usually develop a rod knock (and as soon as a mechanic hears it he knows it) unless they were abused. Low oil level can make any engine noisey, or worse. nipper

sunroof drains are clogged. nipper

Well disconnect the sensor and see what happens. you wont hurt anything. Rod knock will be a hollow deep sound. It will vary in intensity if you remove one pllug wire at a time, when you get to the cylinder(s) with the bad rods. Soobys dont have especially noisey valve trains. Another possability is a bad timing belt idler. nipper

Piston slap goes away after a few minutes. Rod knock never goes away Lifter noise is a clatter and will change with RPM (btw subarus in this generation dont normally have a lot of lifter noise). A noise will not cause a knock sensor code. A bad knock sensor will cause a knock sensor code. nipper

AC is checked using a set gauges to check the pressure of the gas in the system. It is not a little fluid. You should be checking all your fluids regularly and topping off as needed. The ac compressor is loud when it engages as it is an electro-mechanical clutch. No a bearing wont click like an ac clutch. If you have the ac off, if it is the coolant pressure being low the noise should stop. If you look at the front of the ac pulley, it will spin when engaged, and not spin when off. How fast is this clicking noise that you are hearing. nipper

I wonder if your slowly loosing refrigerant, not enough to affect cooling, but enough to make the compressor short cycle. I THINK the clicking your hearing is the clutch engaging and disengaging. nipper

er um, have you popped the hood to look to see if the click matches the ac compressor clutch engaging? nipper

It may also be the wrong axle. Subarus in the 80's had many differnt axle configurations. Sometimes a rebuilder just looks at the axle and thinks they all look alike, and some mechanics do it too. My 88 was so bad that my mechanic had his rebuilder send him all 4 possible axles so he could match it up properly. Make sure you are getting the right axle, even if it means comparing it to the good one on the car. nipper

http://www.peakantifreeze.com/images/art_protection_chart_06.gif If you live in the artic, upper north dakota (canada) or the equator, other mixes are desirable. Get over 70% mix and you will start loosing the ability to carry heat away from the engine very quickly. 50/50 mix is best for most drivers, as it is the most cost effective. nipper

More info then you would ever want from the FSM: Cooling system Electric fan + Forced engine coolant circulation system Total engine coolant capacity (US qt, Imp qt) Approx. 6.1 (6.4, 5.4) Engine coolant pump Type Centrifugal impeller type Discharge performance I Discharge 20 (5.3 US gal, 4.4 Imp gal)/min. Pump speed—total engine coolant head 760 rpm — 0.3 mAq (1.0 ftAq) Engine coolant temperature 85°C (185°F) Discharge performance II Discharge 100 (26.4 US gal, 22.0 Imp gal)/min. Pump speed—total engine coolant head 3,000 rpm — 5.0 mAq (16.4 ftAq) Engine coolant temperature 85°C (185°F) Discharge performance III Discharge 200 (52.8 US gal, 44.0 Imp gal)/min. Pump speed—total engine coolant head 6,000 rpm — 23.0 mAq (75.5 ftAq) Engine coolant temperature 85°C (185°F) Impeller diameter 76 mm (2.99 in) Number of impeller vanes 8 Pump pulley diameter 60 mm (2.36 in) Thermostat Type Wax pellet type Starts to open 76 — 80°C (169 — 176°F) Fully opened 91°C (196°F) Valve lift 9.0 mm (0.354 in) or more Valve bore 35 mm (1.38 in) Radiator fan Motor 120 W Fan diameter x Blade 320 mm (12.60 in) x 5 Radiator Type Cross flow, pressure type Core dimensions 670 x 361 x 16 mm (26.38 x 14.21 x 0.63 in) Pressure range in which cap valve is open Above: 88±10 kPa (0.9±0.1 kg/cm2, 12.8±1.4 psi) Below: −4.9 to −9.8 kPa (−0.05 to −0.1 kg/cm2, −0.7 to −1.4 psi) Fins Corrugated fin type Reservoir tank Capacity 0.5 (0.5 US qt, 0.4 Imp qt)

www.conversions.com is my freind

The t-stat is 190 degrees if i remeber correctly, that will be your target temp. i have seen my 2.2 (not blu) run up to 220 (scangauge) in the hot high plains, and have it barely show on the needle. i would say 220 is the upper edge of a comfort zone, as you do need some reserve for low coolant, flow issues , and extreemly hot air. at 260 i would consider that dangerous (even though its prbbly 2.3 of the gauge, but its amazing how quickly the gauge can climb from that point) Give me a year (ballpark) for a 2.2 and i can give you more detailed information for designing a cooling system for the car. nipper