nipper

But i hope there is still organic blinker fluid. nipper

First thing to do is make sure the valve covers are tight. Next ask yorself: Is the car smoking Any oil dripping on the exhaust pipes Any oil dripping on the ground Any oil consumption If the answer to all those are no, i wouldnt worry about it. nipper

EEK i dont like the fine spray of oil. First off make sure the car is full of oil. This is very important, did the oil pressure go south first or the engine overheat first (each time). What i would do is have somone start the engine with the hood up and you looking to see if you can see the source of oil (ruling out a hole in the block). Wash down the engine and see if you can see where its comong from. There are three likely causes for this sceanrio - A failed oil pressure sender or switch. - Failed oil pressure seals -failed main seal (oil comes out and makes a mess in this scenario). Is the car making any strange noises. Does the main front pully wobble? (this can tear up a main seal sometimes) nipper

Leaving the covers off are only a problem if your going to drive in snow. You just need to line the marks and you can tell if they are off or not. Which leads to the question how old is the belt and tensioner/idler ? nipper

at 145,000 you should. You wont get another 60 with those original parts, some do, but very few do. nipper

That filter was a after facotry OE part. Just replace all the rusted metal lines with rubber hoses. Thats what a shop would do anyway. nipper

i am glad no one was hurt. After my legacy was rearended (and a few surgeries for me later) i got another subaru. i am convinced in a lesser car i wouldnt be walking today. The car did its job. nipper

Its an svx so the plist may or may not be more money but here is what should be replaced: Main Seal Re-seal the oil pump water pump Thermostat (your there anyway) Tensioner (if the tensioner goes south so does the engine) Idler Radiator cap (if its never been done now is a good time) I am assuming you have the belt and cam seals. Replace the fan belts too since you already took them off. IF you replace all those parts you will be good untill 120,000 miles (figuring 60K per belt change). or 105000 miles ( i dont know what interval you have). nipper

This is my PS: (sorry just got back in from the movies) Still check the timing. Also 200 is awfully high. You may have the beginings of an HG issue, you may have a jumped timing belt. Check the timing first before doing anything else. nipper

MY VC was fine. My driveshaft was shot. Automatics are hard plumbed to the FWD, and vary the rear wheel drive, so they can do it. There is only one way to find out about a manual, its not hard to remove the driveshaft. Since your at the point of removing the drive shaft or parking it (yet it can get that bad that you can start hurting other parts of the car if not you), remove the shaft and see what happens. its not that hard to do. nipper

The 10psi drop is telling you that you have a HG issue. That the HG is leaking into the other cylinder. No one has mentioned a wet compression test, but i think that would only confirm the fact that the head has to come off. On the vacume gauge, not only is the reading important, what the needle is doing is also important. http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=ad&aid=47 nipper

Thats true, that shuts off the entire circuit. We are assuming here a cooked automatic clutch set that has fused together. nipper

4eat will get confused and will limit you to 50 mph working in conjunction with the ECU. At least thats what has been shown on someone elses thread when they broke an axle. nipper

DO the seals first. nipper

Pull the door panel and look. There are many differnt ways this was done. If the car had it as an option odds are its just an add on. Worse case scenario is that you can't do it, or you need the entire regualtor. nipper

Somethings are better off left to a shop. DOnt just put in the drier and then let them flush it. They may flush it with it removed ( its been years so ive forgotten). They use liquid refrigerant, which you cant get. nipper

Lets try something simple. Unplug and then plug back in the connector at the harness. If its a dirt issue, that is usually enough to clean up the connections. nipper

Inspect that fuel injector and make sure there is nothing wrong with it. nipper

i drove without a rear driveshaft when i had yo get the driveshaft repaired. No biggie. The car handled a little differntly (to be expected). nipper

Well now its lemon scented and synthetic nipper

hell yes ... its dangerous. There is a tree out there with your name on it. Lets hope you never find it. Please be careful. nipper

no. They ground through the ecu, thats how they operate. The ecu completes the circuit, and they energize. There is a tester you can buy at the autoparts store to test injectors while the car is running. It tells you that there is an electrical pulse. Its a noid light. Here is some tmi http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec2000/mech.htm noid light http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT447_pg28.htm

5- i think they are, just some have differnt calibrations then others. i am sure somone else will jump in on this. 4- i dont remember 3- it just unbolts between the carrier bearing and rear diff. 2- You can harm your rear diff, and the car will refuse to go where you point it on the slightest slick surface when it gets that bad. Its just dangerous. Also you will damage the tires, etc etc. You may also find it impossible to turn the steering wheel any great degree. 1- You get fwd. nipper

Well we can say the cam position sensor is good. Also each individual injector grounds out through the ECU. Grounds can do really weird things. nipper

Your welcome Some topics its easier to repeat then make someone suffer through lots of threads. nipper