nipper

Everyone should do it at least once ....... Then they will never do it again nipper

You need a analog meter to read the voltage. Digital volt meter take a sample every X milliseconds, since it has to process the data. The more expensive the meter, the faster the sampling rate. Also every time a digital gets an input, it triggers the processor, so it removes the previous datapoint. It is possible that you can get data faster then it can process. Digital is not the end all of meters and never will be. There are times that you need a needle, or a scope. I always have a cheap analog and a expensive digital. Also the injector timing is affected by the cam position sensor. nipper Edit : slow typist

Yes it can happen with an LSD. Essentially the center diff is a LSD. It happens when the viscous coupling gets over heated (on a manual tranny). The VC is a set of altenating discs FRFRFRFRFR F- front R- rear The plates have holes in them. When they spin at differnt speeds, the silicon fluid heats up, and mechanically hooks up the plates. When everything equilizes the liquid cools. Now if this condition lasts for too long (and in a manual it doesnt take long), the fluid cooks and becomes a glue. Front and rear axles spin at different speeds ( no road is complete straight). They need to have a diff in the center to alow this (manuals only we are talking about). When this ability is lost, you get torque bind. It is usually caused (on a manual) by mismatched tires, driving on a falt, or an underinflated tire. Hope that helped. You can also search Viscous coupling and spend days reading. nipper

Remove the rear halfshaft. nipper

How are you measuring the injector voltage? A digital meter wont pick it up as the sampling time is not fast enough. You do know that one side of the injector is high, and the low side goes to the ECU. nipper

i bet he didnt put the summer mix of blinker fluid in. Even the synthetic fluid needs to be changed. nipper

i agree. There is only one thing that can leak in that area. You described the taste of brake fluid. nipper

I wonder if the check valve in the brake booster is leaking. That would drain vac into the rest of the system. The brake booster makes a pretty big resivoir in that case. nipper

reciever drier may have fell apart due to age. That will clog the system. You will need to have the system flushed evacuated and recharged. nipper

It really depends. The power brake booster can hold it for weeks. The no-brake-pedal-in-cold is a stuck check valve. You can have a lazy vaccum isolater/delay/amplifier valve. They are little round things with a hose coming out of either end. Can be a minor vacum leak (get out the carb cleaner and spray around the noise). The leak may not be anywhere near the noise. If it drives fine, you may have to wait untill its a little more noticable. Have you driven it in the rain with the replacement engine? nipper

hrmmmm Since it goes on for a second after shutdown, i would rule out anything engine wise. Can it be something operated by vaccum that is making the noise? It almost sounds like something is pressuring down. nipper

Just remove the plug wires. I would also like to see a compression test with all the plugs out. i havent ruled anything out yet. nipper

Are we the only two that ordered lift kits for Ej's?

hehehehe starting a bad bad thing Also be alert for OWOWOWOW as the engine cranks (sparks from the cables) nipper

That and a dremel tool (shudder) nipper

Its one of those things that as soon as a trained ear hears it, they know what it is. Usually for the untrained ear you wait for it to get worse (some noises you have to) to be certin what it is. The harmonics gave it away. nipper

No biscuit for you... (glad it was something simple) nipper

Thats saying something in itself. hrmm do the compression test and the vacume gauge thing and let us know what happens nipper

Its hard to diagnose a noise over the net, so i cant tell you yes or no. Let somone else listen to it. nipper

some reading http://www.autohausaz.com/html/auto_electrical_systems.html http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm

If its metalic and coming from the transmission area, a broken flexplate is the most likely cause.

Get yourself a cheap vacum gauge, lets see what that does. nipper

Havent you noticed that authorized really does mean nothing these days. nipper

There are a few sesnors that will stall the car. The crank sensor, the engine temp sensor. Yo need to check and make sure whatever generates the signal for the crank sensor is not damaged. My first wild guess would be the engine temp sensor. If thecar doesnt run long enough, it may not store the code. The ecu is always a possability. nipper

if the altenator is really scewed up the lights may not work. Charging issues can do weid things. Dont run the car with a bad alt too long, you may ruin the battery. nipper