nipper

Your completely and totally ......... correct nipper

Its done for anti-theft and to reduce costs. Bet his inside trunk release was electric. Sometimes i love cables nipper

now now be fair, 1998 and 150,000 miles, not everyhting lasts for ever. Its in some very harsh enviorments. I wonder if the monkey hit the other one too? nipper

The TC uses the input of the Throttle position sensor* Map/bap sensor (i forget what subaru calls their combo sensor) Inhibitor Switch (neutral saftey switch assembly)* Front speed sensor* Rear speed sensor* ABS* Torque feedback from the ECU* Engine RPM* Tranny Temp Sensor *direct effect on AWD Newer models have more , including another speed sensor on the torqu converter, the ABS system itself (individual wheels). The speed sensors are the ears of the system in older subarus. Without these the AWD wont work. There are some very complicated mathmatics involved in figuring out how much torque to apply and when. Thats what puters are for. Personally i like the older system, where there is no softening or wait-and-see thnking from the TCU. I have rented two 2005/2006 outbacks, and there seems to be some annoying delay (split second but noticable) between front spinng and rear engaging. My 97 and my 98 never had that. nipper (i hope i said that right )

Yes. nipper

I've owend in no particular order 2 AMC ramblers Dodge Demon 340 plymouth Duster VW Super Beetle with autostick 2 79 Honda civics Datsun 210 Nissan 310 (change a clutch in 20 minutes .. sweet) Ford Escort VW Rabbit Convertable (freind would see you coming and run it was so troublesome). Lancia 4 subarus Chevy Corvair Only the last two came with freinds. Any pre OBD 1 car is touchy to diagnose. Try diagnosing a american car from that era, it makes subaru a breeze. SUbarus are like VW beetles in their day. Have any issue, easier to remove the engine in 20 minutes to deal with it then work with it in the car. Every old car has its quirks. Transmission fluid has always been able to be used in the PS pump. Its basically the same thing, just PS has less additives because they arent needed (but yet can be more expensive). Parking brakes being on the front goes back to one of the original purposes of the parking brake, to hold the car in place and protect the driveline. Its just far cheaper to put them on the rear wheels then the front, thats why everyone does it, doesnt mean its right (and as much as i cursed them when i did brakes i miss them). My subarus and corvairs are the only cars i owned that came with freinds, and my corvair came fame to boot. nipper

I've seen lower, but i am assuming he doesnt have a cam on this:), if he does i want to know where he got it heheheh Even on a 4 cylinder the needle is rather steady. A vubraion of less then 1/4 inhg is considered steady. Is it instantly 16, or does it start at 20 plus then go down to 16 ? nipper

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm In a healthy engine the vac gauge needle doesnt vibrate at all. Vac reading is usually around 2i inhg. nipper

You would get the same reading for 1 clogged cat as two. The easiest way to determin if you have a cloged cat is to do a before and after. Take the before reading, and disconnect the exhaust pipes (dont be in a hospital zone or before noon on a sunday). Have you tried hitting the cat with your hand to see if it rattles? nipper PS try using the power brake booster hose

Almost but not quite. The Duty C solenoid (note the word duty) is an on - off cycling solenoid. It is not designed to have full voltage/current all the time. The cycling of the solenoid allows for the differntial action on turns, and changes the the balance from 90/10 to 50/50 as is needed.` When you use the FWD fuse the solenoid is energized whenever the car is turned on. The car is not locked up when the car is off, as the car needs hydraulic pressure to apply the clutch pack. When you shut the car off, the pressure in the clutch pack goes to zero. When the car is running and in park the solenoid is off, then the car is at full application of the clutch pack. Since the car is not moving, there is no torque split. It's not unusual to feel a very slight lurch in an AWD car as you back out of a parking space, as the computer figures things out. nipper (edit) PS. From what we have seen here, if the solenoid is good you wont hurt it, if it is weak it will burn out, but for the most part it survives as long as its months and not years....

DO you have a haynes manual? It shows the wiring diagram, that would be a good place to start. Check to see that power and circuits are all where they are supposed to be. nipper

Actually you are only doing the same thing the fuse is. You installed the switch in place of the fuse. As long as you are only energizing the FWD circuit by using the switch, your not hurting anything. The FWD fuse acts as a switch, sending the signal to the TCU to fully open the Duty C solenoid and not activate the AWD. What you did was maybe overkill, but fine. As long as the switch bridges the circuit between the two FWD fuse wires. nipper

i dont mind over the top colorful bombastic writing, as long as the facts connect ...but man, what planet is he from? And yes it sounds like he needs a physical at the very least. Sadly i have known of a few people like this, one has a brain tumor (he may have passed as we dont see him on line anymore) the other two have substance abuse issues. nipper

so its a tie, i say torsion bar. nipper

i'll fight you for it nipper

I wasnt going to read this thread, but my curiosity got the better of me. And now i have a headache. About 10-12 years ago, a freind of mine moved from the NYC area to the uppermost part of central maine, where the only thing between him and canada were lots and lots and lots of trees (many many miles). He said that there were some really "entertaining" and bizzare people up there. Now i undertsand. nipper

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l128/stroked71/allisettaemailcopy6ba.jpg a better pic

http://forums.motortrend.com/70/1062045/the-drive-in/whats-your-favorite-monster-engine-transplant-spec/index.html scroll down, a really poor picture of it nipper

ROFLPIP then why build it?

I had a 73 super beetle, i love bugs, hate the new ones. But then again i like cars with weird and unusual engines. nipper

and they have a really weird feel when they apply on thier own. nipper

220 is hotter then it should be, but not enough to do any damage. try www.radiator.com . Thats where i get mine from. nipper

hehehe lets thorw a VW beetle in there too just for fun nipper

Thanks, i will. What bothers me (keep in mind i failed eletronics courses but aced mechanical courses) is from looking at the wiring diagram, i think i understand why i fried the box and fuse (or maybe not).. I tapped into the lead for heated seat switch positve. From there i went to the light bulb, then to ground. From reading everything i see that subaru controls the low (negative) side to dimm the dash. ( I understand WHAT electircity can do, not how it does it all the time). Now by my tapping the high side, in my mind, with the lightbulbs in the circuit, i should not have created a short (the lightbulbs being the load). The thing didnt fry right away, as it was live long enough for me to test my wiring and double check my solder joints. Oddly i found the tap that the guy on NASIC forum needed for his tape deck. There was one circuit that worked inversly to the dimmer. Again i'm scratching my head. I am going to hope that the light control is what fried. The smell was minor, but was heaviest towards the bottom of the steering column. The box blew first, then the fuse. If i made a dead short, shouldnt the fuse have blown first? Can someone enlighten me as to why it blew? Andyjo (whereever you are), you asked me how i know so much. I learned a long time ago the best way to do anything was to sum up the problem, investigate it, research, and ask others for answers if you can't find it yourself. i know so much from (oh god ill be 46 soon) all those years, and gifted with a fantastic memory for anything technical. Just dont ask me what anyones name is nipper

Same way you would a tie rod. nipper