nipper

Blu (see picture of pretty Blue subaru). I have a gauge on mine. I put mine after the radiator. It's interesting watching the gauge. Takes a long time for the tranny to warm up. As long as the gauge is never higher then the engine temp or 100 degrees oover ambient all is well. What sucks is my factory JDM gauge is in C and my brain is in F. Hottest its gotten so far is 90 C. nipper

and the other 10% is the mfg specing out too thin a rotor to start off with. nipper

Look at the tires. They shold all be the same age. If one is newer then the others, be alert. Also take the car out to a parking lot. Automatic or manual do the same test. Driver in a tight circle on level ground. The car should be able to propel itself around the circle at idle (or a wee but of gas) ina nice smooth motion. If you feel any lurching, jumping or like a brake is dragging its has TB and will be a 800-1000.00 US repair. This would not condem the car if the seller agreed. I bought mine with TB for a very good price. nipper

Sounds like they made an engineering cost decision. They went with a smaller radiator for the 5% of people who will never see these conditions. I would get an external tranny cooler (Blu has one) and an external oil cooler. ALso a tranny temp gauge if you do regular towing. nipper

I'm getting the feeling that either the radiator is to small, or the factory gauge is off, or both. If you have BOTH an external tranny cooler, and an external engine cooler and are still running hot, my next step would be to install a GOOD aftermarket temp gauge and see what is happening (or use a scangauge). The only way you can remove more heat from the engine is with a large oil cooler, but you need one with a T-stat built into it. Also anything that increases engine oil capacity will help. nipper

They thought about it, but the engine was too long to fit in the space under the hood. They wanted an 6 cylinder that would not require major redesign (and new crash testing) of the car. nipper

When the ecu sends a signal to a solenoid, there is an electrical spike that is created by the movement of the plunger. Every solenoid ever made does this, its just physiscs. It is 100% repeatable. The computer looks for this feedback. IF the plunger is stuck, there will be no feedback. If it travels part way, the full spike will not be generated. Supposedly the next level of OBD will be able to comminuicate this information (the powers that be have yet to decide this as it will take more computing power). This has nothing to do with what ever the solenoid is connected to,its purely a function of electromagnetisim that the ECU is taking advantage of. This is how the TCU can tell you when you have a failed duty solenoid in the tranny. nipper

I've eseen them with no intervals (materials have gotten much better since the 1960's) to as low as 100,000 miles. i remember on a BMW list them calling out 200,000 miles. Now considering most people dont keep their cars past 160,000 (avg is 140,000), its acceptable. I think because we expect our soobies to run untill that big comet kills us all, that we are more picky. And yes the shorter the chain, the longer the life. nipper

Sounds like you may have a clogged catalytic converter. nipper

Damn im so good i scare myself at times The computer can read if the solenoids are opening, closing, or are stuck. I bet yours is stuck. you can always get one from a scrap yard. nipper

Three :cool: nipper

have you tested the sensors? There may have been a reason the car was scraped (like a bad sensor). nipper

Basically a chain is smaller, but heavier. A timing belt is wider by necessity. A timing chain holds valve timing over long distances better then a belt. A chain has more inertia, a belt is lighter and more responsive. A belt has to be completely isolated from oils, where as a chain doesnt (making it easier to design). A timing belt is much easier to deal with from a mfg cost point of view then a chain, but desgn wise if length is an issue, a chain is easier to deal with. With the H6 they used a chain because they had a fixed dimension to fit the engine in. There are combinatiuons out there of chain/belts and chain or belts and gears (read shoehorn). The quitest thing to use is a belt where space is not an issue. The best are gears if it meets the distance requirments, and the best where holding dimensions can be critical is a chain. These are the standards we go by when we pick which one to use. Gears are still used today, but usually between cams. nipper

Except a bicycle chain does not have to deal with ignition pulses, strain of the camshaft, 6500 rpm or higher, -15 to 200 degrees F (or higher), variable and instantly changing loads ... nipper PS: a Bycyle chain has a fairly short life, just very few reach it. On my 10 year old Racer its been through 5 chains, and my motorcycle had a interval of about 12,000 miles on its chain.

A dealer may have one, you can get one cheap an autoparts sotre (i think). This is the one kind of gauge well more money doesnt mean a better gauge. As long as its not digital. nipper Edit : this is when you find out how good the mechanics are. Timing lights are rare these days (almost antiquated), but a good mechanic will still have and know how to read a vacume gauge.

heheheh Timing chains last from 100-150,000 miles (sometimes more). With the new OBD II and soon to be OBDIII standards (well soon in glacial time), the computer can easily tell you when its stretched out. The only real differnce is that a chain will make a lot of noise before it goes snap. ALso remeber these are thesame people that beleive in chaining plugs at 36,000 miles. i think reasonably 125-150,000 miles can come out of chain before replacement is due. nipper

May be wheelbearings, may be both. One way to find out is jack up that wheel and shake it to see if there is any play. Wouldnt be unusual to need both on a car this old. nipper

And what your defantion of dead is. Mine is Rust. If the car has no rust, and is in good shape, its worth putting a new driveline in. nipper

When was the last time the timing belt, idlers, and water pump were changed. It sounds like a water pump failure. nipper

Short answer, no. There have been no changes in emission standards in the last few years, so it will be good. When the next set of emission standards kick in, there may be another round (in all manufacturers) of growing pains. If you are worried about it, take the money for an extended warrenty, and put it in a back account and sit on it. That will cover it IF it needs one in the future (or most of it). I havent researched the next round of standards yet. nipper

I am a huge fan of the 2.5L, but given your situation, i would say the 2.2. JUst remeber to reseal it while you have it and do the timing belt and associated parts. nipper

What he ^^^^^ said. nipper Sounds like to me a clogged radiator.

Through a vacume gauge on the car and let us know what it reads. A stuck valve is not surprising. nipper

As long as the CEL light is on its not a BS light. It can be a bad fuel injector too. Remove the FI connector and plug it back in. Usually thats enough to clean the connectors. If its a bad injector you can dump raw fuel into the converter and burn it up. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/OBDSpring04.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LegacyandImprezaInfo.pdf hope this helps.

Could it be possible that the force of the pistons are closer to the top on the pass side, while they are closer to the bottom on the drivers side? I wonder it the drivers side bottom is the same temp as the passenger side top (that would make sense). I dont remeber where the offset of the flame front starts on these engines. One usually hopes for it to be near the spark plug location, but usually its slightly offset and follows the sirection of the piston via the rotational direction of the crank. I have a thermocouple to read that, but dont have an e82 handy. When i had a VW beetle, there was a cyl head gauge that mounted under the sprak plug, one on one side, the 2nd on the other, to track the two individual heads. nipper