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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. If the engine is running fine, let it be. The engine has easily another 150,000 miles of life left in it. If you really want to check the health get a compression test, hook up a vac gauge and learn how to read it, and a GOOD oil pressure gauge. nipper
  2. You should replace all the seals and the timing balet in one fell swoop. Give the car a tuneup too, and have someone read the codes. This may be a painful hit in the walet, but do it once and your good for 100,000 miles. Before you take the car to the mechanic, take it to a doityourself car wash and wash underneath the car. This will help the mechanic identify the source of leaks. nipper
  3. They can get hard spots which are hard to find but will cause the same thing. nipper
  4. i say you have a cooked relay. Replace them and you should be good. nipper
  5. Shaking: Bent Rims Broken Tire belts Warped Rotors Improperly torqued wheels seized CV joint bad tie rod ends bad bushings stop going to the dealer and take the car to a front end shop. Take the mechanic for a drive and show him the shaking. Does braking the car have any effect on the shaking. Does acceleration/deceleration? nipper
  6. It doesnt count if your just standing the spare up inbetween the other two wheels nipper
  7. It's rare, and usually caused by an underinflated tire. Sadly it gives no hints that something bad is happening, unlike the auto which will give you one or two. nipper
  8. There is actually a spray on protector you can use, as it washes right off with a solvent. i forget the name of it, but its availanble in autopart stores. For the engine, just wipe it down with a film of oil. You shouldnt have to repeat it. My freind has a dodge hemi block sitting in his garage thats over 30 years old and no rust. nipper
  9. Rust never sleeps ... they all rust. Afterall they are bare unpainted metal. Of course you can apply brake rotor antirust spray (right next to the blinker fluid on the store shelf, below the muffler bearings), but the car doesnt stop well after that. nipper
  10. THERE is the problem, normiclature... they are THINGIES, not THINGERS hehehehe nipper
  11. Wow, how did you manage to do that? nipper
  12. i hope so i drove it for a month likie that untill the driveshaft was repaired. Car drove for another 2 years, then rust finally killed her off. nipper
  13. What a weird concept ...... sell. i am more of an end user, drive the car into the ground. Replacment time for me is usually: 1- Rust 2- A bad case of the uglies 3- Interior has gotten really ragged 4- Electrical switches start breaking ( i dont mean failing, more like the parts fall off the switches). 5- Parts cant be found. Blu is a keeper nipper
  14. They wil rust up over night if the conditions are right. Follow Andjo's directions, it works every time nipper
  15. It may be too late, but sometimes on the plates there is a specific order and direction they need to go back in (especially since you didnt replace them). Make sure they are all absolutly flat. If the have a slight angle to them they all need to be pointed in the same direction. Besides, you can do this in your sleep now nipper
  16. hrmm they changed things then. Older cars i have owned, including my 1988GL, drove for a month with no rear dirveshaft with no problem. nipper
  17. see dont listen to me :-p You missed a clutch or clutch plate someplace. Or you didnt get the right clutches.... or .... nipper
  18. hrmmmm i may be wrong (hey it happens) so lets have someone else chime in .. nipper
  19. The gauge goes back to zero when the car is off, my 97/98 doesnt do that. That is a function of the gauge, not the sender. Not everyone gets it right 100% of the time, so it may pay to get a second opinion, as i'm not keen on this diagnoses. nipper
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