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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. mine are in the back of Blu, and i can hear them whimpering ... nipper
  2. i havent heard any. Blu needs new struts badly, and im waiting on that to get this and do it all at once. nipper
  3. Why not replace the HG before you install the engine. In this case i would. There are some things you do when get a used engine, you dont throw it right in the car. You do the usual timing belt and accessories, plugs, rear main seal, that plastic plate, so i would do HG also. nipper
  4. Actually OBDII is SO much easier to diagnose then OBDI, since it is standardized in all mfgs. nipper
  5. When i first had Blu, E was 8 gallons. I ran three tanks with Techron, and now E is a respectbale 12 gallons, and below E is 14, then i get a light. I can live with that. nipper
  6. I dont see two years left in this car. The spreading rust and torn subframe really bother me from a saftey point of view. nipper
  7. Some parts are cheap enough to just replace. This is one of them. Usually one sign is that it keeps dumping fluid in the resivoir, and not sucking it back in. Another is the overflow filling up at a low temp. A bad HG will vomit all the fluid out. nipper
  8. And thats why long long synthetic oil change intervals bother me. So i am not the only one in that club. Interesting. Mine is running like a new one, because it is a new one, right from subaru. nipper
  9. Is is some sort of electronic dodad at the base of the Sending unit bracket. It is shaped like a bullet. It never moves. Its sealed to gasoline so wont get contaminated from sulfur like the fuel gauge will. The gauge is exposed to gas and gets sulfur contamination, and throws off the gauge. nipper
  10. What he said. The light is a seperate mechanisim then the gauge, and is 100% repeatable and reliable (as long as the light doesnt burn out). nipper
  11. Actually one more thing. When you get the heads off, make sure that the piston sleeve has not moved. This is done with a straight edge across the deck. When you get the engine so hot as to damage (which you have), its a possability that it has moved, then the engine is scrap. Also you must do an oil change to protect your bottom end. I fear that you may have wiped out the main bearings also. That rattling noise is not a good thing, especially after this scenario. nipper
  12. Radiator cooling fan bearings, Radiator cooling fan with a broken or missing fan blade. nipper
  13. yes it can have an effect. But first the more obvious questions, when did the MPG take a dump? If it was right after the muffler, thats a red flag. You dont say how many miles, so have you done a full tuneup recently? How old is the O2 sensor? Tires properly inflated? Junk out of the back of the car? nipper
  14. Forget the rear end, fix the TB, as thats probably most your problem. All rear ends look wet at the seals after a specific age. Its nothing to worry about, and Jiffy was prbbly stating a fact. nipper
  15. PCV valve can cause oil consumption (including leaks). replace it with an OE valve. Compression gauge is not a vac gauge. a vac gauge reads the manifold vac of the car, and can tell you many things about the engines health. Some subarus like to make noise. If the valves were in spec they were in spec. nipper
  16. Bet you had an oil leak, or it got worse during the drive. Another possability is how long ago did you last check the oil and what kind of oil were you running. I ask ONLY because its necassary to check the oil at least once a week under the hood of any car. With extended oil change intervals (not acussing you, just a public service announcment) you still need to check. A subaru can use a qt of oil between facotry change intervals and be considered normal. Extended intervals people (being human) sometimes overlook that fact and dont check the oil level. SOrry to hear about the engine, but dont be too quick to blame the 2.5L. Any engine will throw a rod if it runs out of oil. Blu threw a rod because the previous owner beleived in chainging the oil once a year weather it needed it or not (1997 bought at 180 K do the math, not a good practice). I replaced mine with another 2.5L. Good Luck. nipper
  17. I havent seen them with two flow meters, that would correct that problem. I dont know how often the injectors fire on OBDI subarus. It can be once per cycle, maybe 2 (Iv'e seen OBDI cars form other mfgs do weird things). I do like the dual flow meters though. I did a quick google search and i cant seem to find anything on the net for OBDI maybe ebay? nipper
  18. OBDI thats really difficult. OBDI was not a universal code, so its very hard to neerly impossible to find what you want. The simplist way to get a MPG gauge (if you want to increase MPG) is hook up a vacume gauge. Keep the needle high and thats when your using the least amount of fuel. If you want something more high tech, i dont know if youll find any. Carberated MPG meters wont work since they measure the fuel moving in the fuel line vs distance. Fuel Injection circulates fuel to cool the injectors, meaning only 30-50 % of what passes through the fuel line at any given is burned. SO using the fuel flow method will give you dismal readings. nipper
  19. Man thats complicated...... I have an aftermarket rear view mirror. i have been experimenting with where to put the sensor, and in all honesty, there is no place in a modern car that is exempt from the heat of the sun. There is also a lot of radiant heating from the road surface, and other cars. It is really really hard to make one accurate all of the time. If its a cloudy day and your only the one on the raod, thats the time thats best. Different manufaturers have tried many different places to mount the sensor (grill, outside rear view mirror, under the fender, engine air intake), none of them are perfect. At best its just a referernce. nipper
  20. #2 is probably the front pump, The dealy is something you can live with you, but the whirring noise (the front pump) is not. Shopping for a tranny isnt a bad idea. nipper
  21. Thats actually a very good price for a VC replacement. It is possible that the rear diff was damaged if you had one tire with lower psi (hence smaller) then the other for a long period of time. If the selas are leaking bad enough you may have lost a lot of lubricant. Has that been checked? Is there any noise from the rear end? If the diff is bad (assuming its not an LSD) does it roar, with the volume increase ing with speed? i usually hesitate to agree that a rear diff is bad on a subaru, as its rare. nipper
  22. so thats your opinion. You can say it as many times as you want. For living in the suburbs of NYC they throw enouugh extra light without being blinding, and show up well on wet raods (which to me is where it counts). i like them. i will use them. :-p nipper
  23. Are you talking about the fake blue bulbs? They wash out in the rain. Or the silverstars. I have the silverstars, i dont care if they do blow out once a year. the extra light they throw makes all the difference. nipper
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