nipper

I think i am going here http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performance/brand.php?makeid=31&modelid=502&year=1997&partid=6030 nipper

[quote=Jimmyowensfan20 I must have got lucky or something since i don't seem to be having any problems with trans except a little tightness when i'm backing out of a pariking spot with the wheels cut sharp. However this does make me a little nervous. the guy at Earl Duff Subaru told me to do it that way though. i called and asked before doing it. You did not get lucky. You have torque bind. The FWD fuse doesnt work unless the car is on ( i think ... i'll have to check). The guy at the dealer needs to be shot, or he forgot to tell you to turn the car on. You need to do a tranny flush to see if that solves the problem. nipper

Here is a longshot, but what condition is your radiator fluid in? It's a longshot but the internal cooler may be leaking. nipper

Its going to be a stepper motor (i imagine), which is not easily testable on the bench. How did you test it? How many leads does it have? nipper

heheh well its that entire saftey thing i worry about. nipper

Anything made in china tends to be junk. I wil only buy brand names myself for replacement parts, especially critical ones. nipper

Its rare that we here about these things going bad. Are you sure its electric, i though it used engine vacum, or did they change that? nipper

PROCEED CAREFULLY ! Like all things in life you get what you pay for. Check out the pep boys with the BBB first. nipper

Yes hondas dont have muffler bearings (hehehehe) nipper

YAY Dont question the mechanic gods about the tranny fluid and rough idle fix. Glad it all worked out. There may have been a gummed vlave in the tranny that was doing odd things. 2.5L auto is 10 qts, just an FYI. nipper

Yes that would give you poor running and failed emissons. WHat your going to need to do (and what i would do) is to do a cylinder leakdown test. WHen you get all timing back in spec, this will tell you if you have a sealing problem or a cam timing problem. And yes like stated above, if its a cam timing problem, you need to replace the idlers and tensioner too. nipper

What he said. Do a search on the subject and there is a way around it, but it requires adding a aux pump for the tranny, and a couple of drive shaft/axle disconnects. nipper

Take it back. This is potentially dangerous. Something is loose. nipper

Bad idea. WOuld you do the same thing during an oil change to get all the poil out of the crankase? No of course not. Its not only a medium to do mechanical work through, it's also a coolant and lubricant. nipper

I think they both use the same type of sensor. Its a fairly standard part. Dump a can of techron in the car and see if that helps with the fuel gauge. The gauges get old and contiminted with sulfur. It only takes one bad tank of poor gas to ruin the gauge. nipper

Actually sometimes i can only sit and type so much sometimes You forgot the expansion valve. Receiver direr he is better off getting new, as they really dont like being exposed to air. The descecant tends to break down when exposed to air. Also i would suggest a new expnasion valve, as they tend to corrode when exposed to air over time. Some days i just have brain farts Nipper

I found a REAL supplier on line where i can get all 4 for 330.00 plus free delivery, so i amy go that route. nipper

I dont know. The US models did not have AC in them as standard equipment. They were AC ready. This means that the wiring harness had all the plugs, and the evaporator was already in the heater box (i think .. they are relativly chep when your making 1000's of them). The dealer usually installed the AC as they got the "kit" from subaru. Thats how a lot of cars. I actually installed one of these kits in an older subaru. I dont know if the european models, where AC in cars were very rare are the same. If i had to guess i would say no. nipper

No. Most of the fluid is inside the torque converter and other places in the transmission. Laso those pumps are not worth the money. The ideal of a fluid change is to also get anything lying in the bottom of the pan in suspension. Drain points are at the low point of the pan to help expidite this, also it helps get all the fluid out. The pumps leave to much behind. nipper

yes we have, and mathmatically you will never have a 100% flush with that method, but you know, its cheaper and better then nothing, and its really one of the few times where its good enough. Personally i am tired of shops charging rediculous prices for 15 minutes worth of work. nipper

Thought i did :-\ Everyone has a slightly differnt method. Esentially get the car up on ramps. Drain the tranny pan. Refill the tranny, then drive around the block. Get the car back up on ramps and repeat. DO this three times. I have a freind with a low mileage car and he uses dino oil. At every oil change he drains then refills the tranny starting at 30,000 miles. AFter three oil chnages he leaves it be for another 30. It works for him. If it hasnt been done in a while, i suggest the ramp method. nipper

Well let me know how long it takes, what kind of condition etc. I dont look at the good reviews, i look at the bad to see how they were handled etc, thats what's important. Everyone screws up once in a while, but does he solve the problem or tell people to take a hike. nipper

Anyone ever by these from this guy http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160112069860&rd=1,1 i sent him an email with a question, got no response, so thats not making me feel real good right now. nipper

Personally ... Thats why i chose to spend alot of money on a brand new subaru engine then buy a new one. i like the lines of Blu, he's not getting replaced anytime soon. nipper

Somestimes an oil change in general will help, but thats only if its boarderline. nipper