nipper

sorry my mistake nipper

You have a light on someplace or something is stuck on. It should take about a month or so to run down a battery by just parking it. It is possible that the battery is bad but thats rare. You need to put a volt meter between the pos battery terminal and the cable. Then you start pulling fuses one by one and see where the metter drops. There will be some parasitic drain for the ECU TCU radio and anything else with a memory. nipper

Are you saying he has egg on his face now? (well somone had to say it) nipper

i bet your leaking it onto the exhaust pipes. When a car burns oil out the pipes you rarely smell it. With those compression numbers you should not be burning oil. And 1qtevery 2 weeks you would have blue smoke. When was the last time the timing belt and seals were done. If you dont know, guess what your doing next... nipper

Idle air control valve may be dirty and or sticking. Its job is to stabalize the idle. nipper

radiator nipper

No one likes a braggert :-p nipper

Yes and all small cars back then were low compression 2 valves per cylinder, low HP low torque and would not stand up to what is demanded today of 4 cylinders. You are getting the same power out of todays 4cyls as the 1970's small v-8s. Part of the reason is the timing chain. Also from a cost point of view a timing belt is much cheaper. You also have external noise standards that didint exist in the 1970's that a belt helps the car pass. Also the timing chain itself has a limit as to how many FPM it can spin as opposed to a belt.The chain is heavier or has a higher polar moment of inertia so it consumes more of the engines horsepower before it reaches the wheels. Chains stretch as they wear and that causes the engine timing to retard affecting the power slightly over time. Belts stretch less and only for the first few hours of operation. They also transmit less harmonics from the reciprocating assembly to the valve train making for more stable valve timing. I am surprised though, 106,000 miles for the timing chain seems shockingly low. I know other modern cars with timing chains get closer to 200,000 miles. Everything in its infancy had a short replacement interval. Go back to the 70's and cars werent expected to last much more past 80,000 miles, today 200,000 is the target. You just cant compare things like that without looking at everything. "There are many more advantages to a belt-drive system than ease of use. A belt drive can increase power over a timing chain through less frictional loss, more precise timing, smoother valvetrain motion and eliminating windage caused by the timing chain and gears running in oil. A belt drive also isolates the crankshaft's torsional vibrations from the camshaft better than a chain (and certainly better than gear drives, which can amplify crank harmonics). Think of it as a second harmonic damper for the rotating assembly. And with all that engine builders are doing to stabilize cylinder-to-cylinder camshaft timing, such as larger-diameter cams, doesn't it make sense to do what you can to precisely phase the camshaft to the crankshaft?" From valvoline nipper

yes those two cyllinders are bad numbers. Like i said, its not the numbers but the differnce. You had minimal change when you pulled those injectors because those two cylinders are not working very hard. They have tired rings. This can also cause havoc with the emissions. If there was a bad HG they would not have come up on the wet test, unless you did the test wrong. Did you have all the plugs out at the same time and the throttle wide open? JUst out of curiosty, play with a vacum gauge again, and use the link i showed you to diagnose. That will tell you if you have worn rings or a HG problem. nipper

well thats why i add it as a PS to my threads, as on flat type what i see as humor others may see as being sarcastic (but that does pass for humor in NY) nipper

How many miles? IACV is probably dirty. nipper

I'm not a big fan of using additives just because you have them..... Back away from the seafoam ....... nipper

You can just jump it. The switch closes when you depress the clutch. But it sounds like you may just need to adjust it or replace it. nipper

Do you mean the clutch switch? Neutral saftey switch is not affected by how far you depress the clutch, but the clutch switch is. It is adjustable. Been a while since i have had a stick, as i always disabled my clutch switch unless it was needed for the cruise. nipper

add katsup nipper

Open ended script, but im stubborn and thick headed. I only take them when the weather changes. I'm adjusting to the fact this is going to be with me another 40 years or so nipper

i just find it odd that both of the wipers dont park. Can be a bad ground as electricity can be fickle. nipper

"classic america muscle" is built in austrailia ..... I just love fact checking nipper

They may have had it turned up at the dealership. I know after market shock sensors can be adjusted. The latest fad is to steal Cat converters off new cars and sell them for scrap or for parts (drug money). So they may have them turned way up. nipper

But gee the other 200,000 subarus on the road have no problem, but i guess your right, since it just overheats your car its a very poor design. What are all the other auto manufactureres thinking who use the same design? I will yell at my fellow Automotive engineers at the next meeting and tell them they are all wrong Or of course it can be something wrong with your car, but i guess thats not a possability :-p hehehehehe The thermostat needs to be OE, not aftermmarket. Over heating can be caused by a cloged radiator, a decrepid radiator, a waterpump with a worn impeller, ignition timing, and a bad radiator cap to name a few. nipper (sometimes pain pills are fun)

It can be the wiperswitch in the motor itself. They are easy enough to take apart and work on, the hard part is getting them out to work on them. The heater, the 4th speed is direct to the blower motor, the third is a resistor (so is the firts two). nipper

Did they also tell you there are (not kidding here) 100 bolts that hold the covers one? I even consider that overkill nipper

:-p Smart when not on pain meds nipper

Ah belt vs chain Chains are noisey and heavy, so they rob power. They also need lubrication, so thats even more mass added to the engine. Mass also equals slower reving. Chainsare lousy at absorbing vibrations from the cam drive. Timing belts are a big jump ahead in technology. The disadvantage is that they are wide, and add length to the engine. Thats why subaru used a chain in the 6. THey are thinnner then belts, so they shorten the motor. I dont think you want a small 4 cylinder with a timing chain. nipper

Pull the resistor block out and check it. If its a 3 speed then yes, there will be two resistors. If its a 4 speed, your just weird (or its the switch). After you make sure the wipers are in thier proper places... " The wiper motor gets power from two sources. One is from the switch on the stalk. The other is from the battery via the ignition switch, but in series with this path is a switch internal to the wiper mechanism which opens up once per cycle. If the second circuit is functioning, when you release the stalk switch, the second circuit still carries current to the wiper motor until it reaches the wiper position where the internal switch opens. At this point, if the stalk switch is disengaged, the wipers park. If the second circuit isn't working, either because of a faulty wiper park switch (inside the wiper mechanism) or because the external wiring isn't delivering current to this switch, then the wipers park immediately when you shut off the stalk switch, as you describe. First thing I'd check is the wiring. " Sorry for the quote, but pain pills are my freind today and that was easier :-p nipper