nipper

i cant always see the thingy in the corner when i write a response :-\ Thats why i was asking too. Dont forget the water pump seals and idler tensioner.. nipper

Either way you are over due. California has stricter emissions. Many states have adopted CA emissions (including mine NY). So there are no longer 49 state cars, now its like 43 state cars. Subaru probably being a smaller mfg, decided to meet the strictest emission standards, since all the cars are made at the same factory. Always assume the worst as far as maint when you buy a used car. On the 60,000 mils cycle you werer due for a seoncd one at 120,000. On the 106 you were due then. Either way your due for a timing belt. You dont say what year the engine is. nipper

It came with the cold weather package, If you have never used it before, you dont need to reinstall it. nipper PS unless you got the 20 mile extension cord option. Ever wonder why the spare tire well is so big? hehehehe

i think there are one or two ... nipper

Thats very good for an engine with that many miles. Whats more important then the actual numbers is how even they are. These are very even when you add in human error. If your pulling the engine to do the clutch Everything becomes much easier to replace. If you are dropping the trnasmission the rear main seal, the pilot bushing, and of course the clutch parts. If your pulling the engine the timing belt, main and cam seals, maybe valve cover seals, plugs water pumpo, tensioner and idler. Re seal the oil pump. When i had my 81 and 87 every 100,000 it got a ne would pump because they were cheap at the time. But thats just me. nipper

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ They have it all there. nipper

Er um .... I hate to rain on your parade, but the front pump is a gear type pump, very minimal seals. Usually its the seals in the rest of the tranny that gets tired. When its the front pump, its the fact the front pump has worn to the point where fluid is leaking past the vanes. http://www.subaru.com.cy/subaru_new/about/parts/09.html (there is an error in that writeup. The pump presurizes the ATF, it doesnt compress it. You can not compress a liquid) http://www.carbibles.com/transmission_bible.html i tripped over that one http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT07.pdf How the pump works.

Sure complicate things..... It will be either the oil pump or the main seals. Those are the two that usually throw a lot of oil. As lonng as you dont tow or overwork the engine i dont think these automatice actually wear out. They are happy as long as they get fresh fluid every 30 k. nipper

Have you replaced the idler and the tensioners? They regularly last beyond 60k, and sometimes a lot longer. nipper

May be late, but the car needs a transmission. The usual repair is have the original one rebuilt with a kit that corrects the problem for a lot of money, replace the tranny (and rear diff it think) with one from a legacy (a retrofit) or install a 5 speed. Teh trannies on AWD svx's had design issues so they tend to cook themselves. nipper

YAY! trust me thats a good thing, the lesser of two evils nipper

Three words Transmission Transmission Transmission. Do not buy one thats not running, since you REALLY need to test drive the car. The AWD SVX's have transmission issues. They easily overheat. The two common fixes are to install a legacy tranny or install a manual. If the tranny seems the slightest bit odd in how it shifts, its a sign of impending doom. It cant just be fixed with a flush. If the tranny is original have an tranny oil cooler and a filter added. the filter should be changed frequently. Other things: Rear LSD Rear Wheel Bearings Very expensive windsheild. Engine seems to run forever. i would like one myself. nipper

My money is on cheap parts. We never see a thread like yours, so your the unluky one. You replace the seals when you do the timing belt. BTW if you are at 100k, and had the seals done and the mechanic did not recomend replacing the timing belt, he was a shmuck. There is your answer. He should have done it while he was there. High mileage oil is BS, its just a sales gimmick, especially since all of a sudden high mileage is 60,000 miles. Thats nothing. If your brave enough to the timing belt yourslef (its not that diffcult just a little tricky) you can do everything else yourself too. nipper here is some reading for you, dont fret about the "specailty tools" as there are work arounds. Seems almost everyone does it themselves. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf nipper

i wouldnt. The cracked windsheild would have me worried, and a good point is made about the air bags. Look closely at the windsheild and see if there is a start point from a rock or something. To do all that work and not replace the windsheild. The air bags will crack the windsheild when the go off. nipper

My guess would be cheap seals. Go get the seals yourself from subaru and hand them to the mechanic. There is a chance (very very slim) that there may be grooves worn in the shaft that the seals are sealing against, but i have never heard of this problem on subarus. Also exactly what did he replace/reseal under the hood. Has anything besides seals been replaced. There are the cam seals, the main seal (crank) and the oil pump gets resealed. The Valve cover gaskets have a tendency to come loose and just need to be snugged up sometimes. nipper

i got one for 9.00 that works fine. nipper

TB with a failed Duty C solenoid is one culprit. The interior heater hose is ugly, but i dont think that would cause an issue as long as things dried out. You may want to look for connectors and take them apart and spray them with contact cleaner. Stall we will wait for the tech to chime in and see what he says. nipper

Thats impossible. The max reading on a vacume gauge for a internal combustion engine is 30 inches of HG, and thats usually with the throttle closed decelerating. The gauge will read close to zero at full throttle, and 17-21 at idle. The needle shold be steady. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm nipper

Its not that the numbers are too low, its that they are very uneven. I've seen engines with many many miles on them be around 100 psi and run fun, but they were 100 psi +/- 5 psi. I do agree that the engine has tired or stuck rings. If it was valves or a HG the numbers would not come up on a wet test. This engine is prbbly using some oil. This is part of the puzzle, but not the entire thing. Is it safe to assume the two 105/120 cylinders are on the same side of the engine? nipper

WHen is carlisle, as i am going away the week before memorial day nipper

ok ill bite, why is it in the wrong location? Its in the perfect location as far engine temperiture management and emissions are concerned. If those two are no longer issues, then you can move it. nipper

On the right side of the car (passenger side) near the firewall. The picture shows it being under one of the electrical harness passthrough boots in the firewall. Its a short stick. nipper

Well thats almost like Oregon, except that they are upside down (hehehe) and drive on the wrong side of the ..... wait ive driven in Oregon, strike that last remark :-p nipper

Start with basics... A tuneup OE wires The recomended plugs fuel filter air filter PCV Valve O2 sensor (if its the original). It sounds like to me you can have spark degredation under load, which can be plugs or wires or both. nipper