nipper

Ok iI would say do a search here (fuel mileage), but its covered so many times, we are running out of . for the umpteenth time IT DOES NOT SAVE GAS! you want gas saving buy a civic. You still have to rotate the rear axles, the rear differential, the drive shaft, and the carrier bearing. Unless your ready to gut the car, it will not save you any gas. That is a lot of mass to rotate. Also why even bother owning a awd car? The AWD works in ALL weather. If you want to find out how well it works, put the fuse in and nail the gas. you will spin the front tires. take the fuse out and you wont spin the tires (thats on dry ground). AWD also stops wheel slip on hard left or right turns. The way that circuit works is that fuse sends a signal to the TCU. The tcu then energizes the Duty C solenoid all the time. The solenoid is designed to cycle on off very fast to vary the AWD as needed. It is possible by keeping it energized all the time you can burn it out. Thats a 200.00 plus repair for a shop to replace. Best thing for gas mileage, tires properly inflated, car well maintained, and all the junk out of the trunk of the car. And the biggest advantage is your right foot. nipper

Have you removed the drive belts yet (its important). I am wondering if its from the front of the engine, or from the back (the front pump in the transmission). nipper

YAY another 2.5 fan Remember the gas mileage is always better then a full size SUV. nipper

i'm sticking with Blu untill they get better colors. Sooby revamped the tribecca quickly to respond to complaints of a funny looking nose and being underpowered. The advantage of being a small car company is that you can quickly modify your products to meet customers demands. nipper

Re reading it, since this is obd1 you may want to pull codes. If this is an AWD i wonder if you lost a vehical speed sensor. How does it operate when warmed up? What happens when you shift the transmission manually? Is there any lag between R and D

No its not, you will fail inspection. nipper

First off what the air temperiture? Secondly it never hurts to change the fluid (every 30,000 miles). If its cold outside (i think below 38) the car will extend shifts to help the car warm up faster. Now this my be a coincidence, but my car did the same thing after the engine was rebuilt. I was having a voltage drop someplace, so i ran a ground from the engine to the battery, and the problem was reduced. It was just weird. If the tranny is not flairing (jumping in rpm between shifts) i wouldnt worry about it. nipper

My first instinct is that its low on refrigerant. They need to put gauges on the system and check the pressures. Thats the first thing you do when a customer complains of short cycling. nipper

Only the SVX requires a special tag http://www.e-zpassny.com/static/info/exteriortags.shtml Granted thats the NY site, but they are all the same. nipper

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm thats the difference. nipper

When the timing belt was replaced, were any idlers or the tensioner replaced, or the waterpump? nipper

In addition the sensors have to be replaced. The sensors are NOT reusable, as they usually get damaged in a collision.... Which leads to the next question - What set them off the first time? nipper

So your not reading the responses to your own post http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Thats from jamal pull the codes from the car computer. Also replace the ignition wires with OE wires. nipper

If you can live with the leak, then it wont hurt anything. Racks are NOT easy to service, and are a real PITA to rebuild. They are like chineese puzzles, where you cant just replace one seal. Last time i looked you cant even get the seals most the time, and rebuild kits are almost non existant. This is the only compnent on the car where everyone (on the web and parts houses) say just replace the unit and leave it to the pros. Unlike older steering boxes, you have bushings with tight tolerances on finishes and gaps that most people dop not have the tools to measure or to service. Bushings are either press fit or a temperiture fit. Finish is extreemly important. You cant just replace one seal in a rack, due to the way a rack is assembled, upon dissasembly you ruin alot of the seals. One day ill take one apart again (havent done it ages), but these thinghs really arent meant to be serviced in a shop. It takes hours to rebuild one, even if you could find the parts. There are no rebuild kits for these things. Also there is zero room for error in a rack, if the rack binds you loose steering. http://www.forparts.com/ICpowersteeringleakt5.05.htm nipper

Brake lube like said above. nipper

Rebuilding a rack is not for the faint of heart, unless you have done many many of them yourself. Unlike engines, there are a lot of tolerences that need to be checked, and its hard to find parts. It takes many hours, and lets face it, if you screw it up, it can be deadly.You cant just replace the leaky seal, you need to do a complete rebuild (you wouldnt just replace one piston ring). It's far easier and safer to buy a used rack or rebuilt rack. It's about the only system on a car that i don't condone rebuilding yourself. I am not the only one that says it, as every other repair site says the same thing. Its not like the old recirculating ball type where there were fairly large tolerances and not many things to go wrong. http://www.forparts.com/ICpowersteeringleakt5.05.htm nipper

Japanese have different driving habits then other countries, so untill another person chimes in your going to be completly confused. I would say change them. The engine is out of the car, now is the time to do it. They have the same traffic, but if they want to go anyplace far they are more apt to hop on a train then to drive. nipper

I have one of those. nipper

One thing at a time. define going crazy at 70mph. How many miles on this car. When was the last time it had a tuneup Have you pulled the codes yet? nipper

well one thing at a time. Lets see what this noise is first, but no. If a drive accessory was putting that much of a drag on something, the belt would burn up or brake first. And you never responded to my last post............ grrrrrr You sort of answered it with the extra drag in the transmission. nipper

I'm not sure whats going on here, but have you attempted jacking one rear wheel off the ground to release the tension in the drive line? nipper

Subarus could always fit a full sized spare tire. They dont do it to try to trim the weight on the car. nipper

Remove the drive belts and see if it goes away. If it doesnt you need to look deeper. This will rule out the AC Alt PS and drive belt tesnioner as sources. With the belts off, let us know if it comes from the front or the rear of the engine. When was the last time the timing belt and water pumps were replaced? Check the heat sheilds on the car (dont burn yourself). nipper

Well you may have two bad calipers then. Its also possible that the one that is Hot is the only one that was working properly. Its not the piston that gets stuck, its the sliders. You should have had resistance from both sides that required doing what i stated before. Are these the orginal calipers? Which wheels are the emergency brake on (I dont remeber) Its hard to tell from here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67496&highlight=Caliper http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51546&highlight=Caliper nipper

Replace or repair. You have a frozen caliper. Disc breaks are self adjusting normally. Subarus are odd creatures, as they have the parking brake on the front wheel, and operate in a rather odd fasion (which is why you need to screw in the pistons). Make sure that there is play in the parking brake mechanisim at the caliper when the parking brake is off. Its possible that it is sticking but rare on a soobie. When the sliders on the calipers freeze or get rusted, the caliper wont release. This is the more common occurance. The other thing you will need to check is the rotor. It is possible that the rotor is warped since it got very hot. To remove the pads you need to take the cap off the master cylinder, and use a big C clamp OR a long screwdriver to start to pry apart the pads. Somone here will have more detailed information on how to do it properly. Once you can get the caliper off (which is held on by a single bolt at the bottom of the caliper) you can swing the calipeer up and screw the piston in. If you decide to replace the caliper i would install new pads. nipper