nipper

I just looked at www.cars101.com Its dumb, it says inspect. You should check the fluids in the car more then once every 30,000 miles. We have found here on USMB that every 30K makes for a very happy transmission. SUbarus will practically get your morning newspaper and slippers for you if you regularly change the tranny fluid. I do mine every 30K (and Blu is at 205,000 miles). nipper

But but but ... i wanted to go nipper

The simple one first. You probably need a new washer pump motor. Now the harder one. The missing T-stat is telling. The water consumption may not be a external leak. You can be burning the coolant. You need to do a compression test to see if it is a HG or not. There are a few places that you can leak and not be HG, nor leave a puddle. You can get the cooling system pressure tested to check for leaks, but i think we know the coolant is going someplace. The Tstate was removed cause the previous owner had a prblem with the car running hot. That can be a bad radiator, or the Hg, or coolant leak some-place-else. nipper

Subaru is really too heavy on thier 30K maint, i dont know why since everyone else is going towards 100K on some things. I think they are written to make the dealer money. Any shop worth thier salt will do the inspected items any time any car gets on the lift. Brake fluid - wait till the car need brakes. Most mfg are going with 100k or life of the car maint intervals for that item. Its a waste of money to have it done now. WHen the brakes are done, have them bleed the brakes. Spark plugs, as long as the car is running fine, passes emissions, and no change in gas mileage they can go for quite some time (your mechanic is correct). Fuel Filter yes. Air cleaner if needed. Drive belts only if your mechanic thinks it needs them. Engine coolant flush and replace. This keeps the system clean and the water pump happy. I am surprised that a tranny flush is not in there. Thats very important on the automatic transmissions. It keeps the AWD very happy, and thats a 3 year interval. nipper PS of course do the oil change too.

i was thinking about making a horque bind joke ..... nipper

Lets back up a bit. When was the last time your waterpump was replaced. That may not always show up on a leak down test. On the engine, either a compression test can be done or a leak down test. The former they put compressed air in the cylinder and watch the pressure gauge to see if it leaks down and at what rate. It can tell a little leak from a big leak. Also with a leak down you can watch to see if the coolant is pushed out of the radiator. Now since you passed the ccolling system leak down test i doubt you have a bad HG or cracked head block. It doesnt take alot of burnt coolant to make alot of smoke. What color is your exhaust. This isnt a turbo is it? nipper PS find another shop, something doesnt sound right.

someone send that link to subaru and tell them thats what a brat/baja should look like. nipper

If you suspect a bad HG you need to do a compression test to be sure. Cracked blocks are rare, head is more suspect. Now if you are looking for a coolant leak, a pressure test may not help. it will juyust confirm there is a leak (that may not be visable). There is a die that you put in the coolant that works with a black light. You can trace the leak back to its source. The firs step in that would be to clean the engine. Also check for exhuast gasses in the radiator. nipprt

Thats because its a manual. nipper

I thought the early ones were boxers, then they abdoned that and went to inlines. Most seem to like to stuff subaru engines in them instead

well remove engine or transmission, your choice. Its on the rear of the engine. I forget hwat its called now, i think the oil seperator plate. Its a common thing to leak as they were originally made of plastic. nipper

The system seems to be used alot. Look for an RV chat room, maybe they can direct you better, but it should work well. nipper

Ok ill say the dreaded word, Head gasket. At 220XXX miles, thats a really really long run. Now this puts me in a quandery. Normally i would say HG over 200,000 miles one should look at a lower mileage engine. But on subarus i havent really seen many HG's replaced that high so I dont know if the same issues apply. As an engine ages the rings wear and get a bit weaker. Some pressure is lost through worn valve seals etc. Now normally when HG's are blown, the heads have to go to a machine shop to be checked out. A valve job is usually in order. In a really high mileage engine, restoring the seals back to factory spec can cause blowby at the rings. Still do the compression test, I would like to see what the numbers are. If they are high on one side maybe you can get away with it. Maybe someone else can chime in that have done HG's on a 2.2 with over 200K on it. nipper

SIGH Do not buy headgaskets on ebay. Period. There are others here that have bought them on ebay and gotten burned. Also old stock is solf on ebay, not the latests revisions in the design. There is only one place HG's should be bought and thats the dealership. There are also people who have bought HG's from auto part stores and failed, Apex comes to mind. Remeber you get what you pay for, and this is going to be alot of work. Dont go blindly replacing parts without doing a compression check. You are leaking so much oil you may be leaking coolant also. You may have a leaking water pump. DO a compression test first. And yes i forgot about the the rear plate on the back of the engine that is probably leaking. This plate is plastic and needs to be replaced with a metal one (a dealer part). Rule of thumb with ebay parts, the more work there is to replace the part, the cheaper it is in the long run to get the part from the dealer. nipper

This is easy, If the car is not overheating its not the HGs. You dont say how many miles are on this (bad). You need to replace all the seals in the front of the engine. you have one or all of the following seals bad Cam Seals Main Seal Oil Pump Seal. This is a fairly common subaru thing (i've been there myself). While your there you should do the timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump too (if it hasnt been done in a while). To find the leak you need to wash the bottom of the engine. Use a do it yourself car wash or a garden hose and a commercial engine cleaner. Not everything is the HG's fault, and oil leaks on this year are rarely the fault of the HG. nipper

LosDiosDeVerde86 16 blinks does not mean any specific fault. All it is indicating is that the last time the car was operated a electronic fault was detected in the transmission. You need to pull the codes to see what the fault is. There are some things that can throw a tranny code that are engine related, like a bad TPS. You may have a failed lock-up torque converter solenoid, another possability. The TCU can detect failed solenoids ans stuck solenoids. Also its not torque lock, its torque bind. Now when was the last time the tranny was serviced. Do all the tires match. Does the car move evenly at idle through tight turns. TB will not make the car stall or run rough. If you have TB this test will show it. Next put the FWD fuse in the holder and see if it goes away, if it doesnt you have a failed Duty C solenoid. The more you drive the car like this the more your tearing up the AWD clutch pack. Do a search here, try tranny codes, it tells you what the codes are and how to pull them. The knock sencor should be fixed as it can be making things worse. DOes the car go through all the gears? What happens when you start off in low and shift manually? do NOT go to a tranny shop if you can avoid it, Go to a sooby dealer, as they will just fix what needs to be fixed and not sell you an entire tranny. Most dealers dont like selling transmissions. nipper

OK lest start at the begiing, as i couldnt make head or tails out of your first post. How many miles are on this car. 2.2L dont loose headgaskets, but it can happen as with any car with age. If it is as bad as you say it is, you should see airbubbles in the radiator. Taking the engine temp off the blcok wont tell you a thing. Aluminum or any metal reacts much slower then water. The best way to read actual temp is with a aftermarket temp gauge, and the more money you spend the more accurate they are. The second way (just an fyi) for an obdII is with a scan gauge, as it reads the ECU temp sensor wihich reacts much faster. If you have heat while the car is over heating, then odds are its not a HG causing the problem. Best method to tell is to take a compression test. There are many places you can loose fluids on a sooby and never see it due to the engine and exhaust layout. Also replace the tstate with only an OE part, and replace the Radiator cap. A weak cap can cause over heating. nipper

CCR is who i would recomend. i purchased a subar rebuild (done by one of the major diesel engine mfgs in the USA) but it was pricey. nipper

Pull the radiator out of the car. Inspect it to make sure all the cooling fins are there. Also check for a clogged radiator. nipper

Here in hell was it when Blu threw a rod? grrrrrr nipper

I just count thread turns. nipper

HEY HEY now, lets just keep your clutch fork in the bell housing where it belongs.... (giggle) nipper

Sure use big fancy words for tits... nipper

you forgot the slaughtering the small animal part while you stand on one foot nipper

im planning on it. If gas gets to 4.00 though its off nipper