nipper

Use the Haynes version. You also need to check the sweep as there can be a dead spoot in the sweep. Are you sure you have your leads in the right position? nipper

http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm Read this and use the links at the bottom of the page. It may help explain things for you. nipper

You need to replace the gaskets. You have substantially over torqued the gaskets and damaged them. The bots will be fine, but the HG are scrap. nipper

OK so its done. The mast was completly rusted inside the assembly, so i had to go out and buy a onesizefitsall power antenna. It was almost an exact fit. So anybody want a brand new mast for a 1997 OBW for 20.00 including shipping? nipper

How EXACTLY did you test the tps? nipper

Bulb Grease? Thats a first. Maybe i really do need to check to see if they have synthetic blinker fluid. nipper

How did it get dented? There isnt alot to these sensors physically. you dent it you broke it. nipper

hrmm one of those sensors are indexed (i forget which right now). IF we follow that logic, i would start at the indexed sensor. Now if it was truly random, then i could fully support this nipper

Someon in New Hop PA has one of these done in camo, it makes me drool everytime i see it. nipper

Start with basics. Clean all the battery cables. Next would be the starter solenoid contacts. They are cheap and easy to install. No need to replace the starter in this gen subaru. nipper

The injectors are hot on one side, and ground out through the ECU. i don't like to condem ECU's, and i will admit we are getting into an area where i am weak. Someone else will chime in here, but this could be malfunctioing injectors, or the ecu. Odds are of two injectors failing at the same time are long, so i would lean towards the ECU. nipper

Take an ohm meter to the injectors and see what it reads. nipper

Back in the day this was true, that engines were choked. Now with emission laws, noise laws, and HP wars going strong, everything is done to possibly get as much HP out of an engine as possibl.e This can be seen when any mfg gets all bouncy because they squeezed out 5 more HP then last year. Engines breath fairly freely. The engineering done is well balanced between perfromance and real life. YOu can remove the air snorkle in the fender, but air flow is an amazingly complicated science. The snorkle is there to help keep crap out of the airbox. So depending where you live you may or may not be able to remove it. Poking holes in the air box can disrupt the ram affect through the airfilter that comes from the snorkle. Also dont put a high flow air filter on the car, especially if it is oil impregnated. True there are a lot of things you can do to add more power, but ask yourself what do you want your car to do. Do you want more power, at the expense of reliabilty (the air filter for example). Subaru must be doing something right, as the cars regularly see 200, 000 miles (and alot of us are heading for 300,000 miles). These are tough cars. If somone wants a high performer, one needs to get a turbo. If you want good all around performance, just keep the car in tune and it will love you. nipper

Get the haynes manual. The AC circuit is a bit complicated to go through here. You really do need to get pressure gauges on the AC to see what presures you have. It may be ok but you need to know that baseline. Switches have contacts that can get dirty. I do beleive it has its own switch. nipper

On the AC, i bet you are low on AC pressure. If you have low pressure it wont run. Don't force it to run when its low on pressure as you can kill the compressor. And what he said about the cruise nipper

Very first thing to do is rotate the tires and see if the sounds move. Cupping of a tire would be more of a strut thing. Sometimes you have to wait a noise out to see if it gets worse before you can say what it is. Differentials will roar if its the gear set, if its the viscous coupling it will have a lot of tire scrubbing on turns and maybe squeeling of tires. nipper

Ok so it wasnt me and the really gooooooood drugs im on today (i am so tired of medical tests). Now if it was me (which it may be since you keep giving me ideas) i would bring the wire out at the rubber boot for the tailgate and up along the roof rack rails. nipper

http://www.nhtsa.gov/staticfiles/DOT/NHTSA/Vehicle%20Safety/Test%20Procedures/Associated%20Files/TP-209-05.pdf I think thats what you want, as it states the breaking force of the belts. nipper

bad motor mount someplace. I've had older soobies do this and really were never bothered. Also cars with shifters attached to the transmission and not the car body will do the same thing sometimes. nipper

DAMNDAMNDAMN the internet... i posted this question yesterday but its not here Do you get a lot of wind noise with the lights on the roof rack like that? nipper

When i had to retire my GL hatch (that was a sad day), it was because it was eating axles. There was frame rot in one of the rails and it was deemed terminal. I was going thourgh an axle every few months, then finally i just stopped replacing them and the car lived out its last remaining days as a RWD subaru. nipper

Do a search as there was an exentisive thread on this subject, and that supplier. On Early subarus it works, on later ones it doesnt seem to, as there is no reference point to know when the joints are centered and balanced. Trust me I would be the first one to say do it in your driveway if it was possible. nipper

Bad bearings will do that, its like driving with tires that are low on air. Always a good thing. nipper

I had mine rebuilt at a drive train shop. They put in U joints that had grease fittings. I forget how much it cost. The other option is to by a used drive shaft. nipper

One of two things. The most common is a clogged catalytic converter. Hit the cat with your hand when its cold and see if it rattles. Second one is a bad torque convereter, but in a subaru thats really rare. nipper