nipper

and here i was thinking it would be giving a WOT condition like a cold start would (more fuel) nipper

whats the S# mode? nipper

That car is old enough to have a clogged or decrepid radiator. The cooling fins may have fallen off behind the ac condenser. nipper

It's amazing how soft and wussy people have gotten over the years. nipper

Zone Rep, better BBB, State attorney General, State DMV, and any other number of agencies that are available in the state to consumers. Toyota is trying to be #1, they won't like hearing this at all. No you dont have to go to the dealer for maint. You just have to prove the car was maintaned. And on something like paint, it doesnt matter where the oil changes were done. Did the mgr tell her this or the dealership owner. Also your freind should tell all her freinds not to go to him, and she should tell the dealership the same. nipper

and i thought I was the twisted and sick one! you all need help, right after me nipper

A canoe on top? hrmmmm. You didnt say if this is a manual or an automatic. AT the very least i would service the tranny check the fluids and take the car on a long drive to make sure all is ok. I am mixed on a tranny cooler at this time. I am assuming (hint) your getting a new T stat and radiator cap too. nipper

It takes that long for the oil to warm up. I would let it go, it sounds fine. nipper

*whew* compared to TB, morning sickness is an easy fix, its just a rack replacement. nipper

Thats been alot of peoples guesses, but we can't seem to get a straight answer. I am bowing out of this one, so good luck. nipper

I wish they all had clips. Good deal. nipper

Wow what a sweet deal. Aside from being underpowered, its a sweet car. Just watch out for rust, otherwise it will just keep going as long as you change the fluids regulalry and gentle pat her on the hood once in a while. nipper

Thats whay i said a SHORT time, like 30 seconds. The logic is to rule things out. The idea is to rule out any rotating mass that has been throuwn out of balance. Also a drive belt load can make an internal vibration worse by magnifying it. Did you pull plug wires to see if it makes a difference? Have you checked the exhaust pipe hangers to see if you lost a hanger? nipper

Have it checked for codes, but it sounds like you have a bad ecu engine temp sensor. nipper

Put the FWD fuese in the fuse holder and see if the problem goes away. Failing racks usualy show uup as being stiff in the morning, then as the fluid warms up, the problem goes away. Do all your tires match and are properly inflated? ALso inspect your CV joints nipper

How many miles on this car

Just for the hell of it. Remove the drive belts and run the car for a VERY shor time, watching the temp gauage. Let us know what happens. nipper

Yes its TB. It wont show up so muuch on thight turns next to your house driving slow while the VC is cold. a 30 foot turning circle is not like driving the car 6-7 miles. Not to pick on you, but your getting advice here to search and read amd listen. There is informtaion here on how a viscous coupling operates and why it gets worse when it heats up. As the VC fluid heats up, its gets thick and almost becomes a solid. This in turns transfers power to the rear wheels. The VC will not do this at low speed turns, because its designed NOT tyo do it at slow speed turns. Eventually it will do it all the time. For some reason in the past your VC got damaged, and thats why you are seeing this happen. As i said before, your looking at needing a VC at some point in the near future. nipper

You would think so, but rod knock gets louder as the engine warms up. The oil thins out and looses some of it's ability to cushion large gaps. Also Rod knock can come and go. I know on my 2.5 it appeared once, disapeared for 2000 miles, then threw a rod. Timing would make a iginition knock, which is a higher pitched noise, but can be just as destructive. nipper

Can be torsion bars. can also be longitudinally mounted struts using linkages. nipper

:-p Some of these posts all sound the same after a while, so i answer them best i can, other then ignoring them. Unless your talking about the poster then yes somone forgot thier own post. nipper

OK first off you dont have a steering problem. Lets start with that 2nd ugly word in the subaru language: Torque bind. Look it up, but thats what you have. Lets rule out some things. First check all your tires and make sure they all match and are properly inflated. Secondly your going to check the tranny fluid and tell me what it looks like. Then you are going to flush your transmission fluid. You are going to drain and refill the trany three times, each time starting the car and running it through all the gears (preferably taking it arounbd the block). Then drain and repeat. If that doesnt have any effect read on ... The dragging and clunking your feeling is the 4wd being locked up. With the mileage on the car it sounds like that your unit may have just wore out. Nothing lasts forever. You have had a good run. Now to make the car driveable you are going to open the hood, and by the wiper motor you will find a fuse holder that should say FWD (cover may be gone). This will deactivate the AWD and you will have a fwd car. this will work for a month or a year. This will make the car driveable and allow you to think of what to do next. You will eventually have to take it to a dealer and have them look at it/ fix it. DO NOT go to a tranny shop. This is about a 800-1000 dollar repair. nipper

Well at least this is a freindly topic , unlike oil. 44 is max pressure on a july day after driving a few hours on arizona blacktop at 80 mph You can play with the tire pressures till you get it where you want it to be. First thing to do is gte a digital tire gauge so you know its acurate. I run my tires at 35/38 psi. nipper

WOHH .................. Take a breath and in english... Forget what anyone has told you, tell us what the problems are. What kind of tranny do you have? Just what is that money going to repair? nipper

You can always just shut the radio off ....... :-p nipper