nipper

If you burn it im all for it, if you add it to one of your liquids that you dont burn i'm not. nipper

No commuter this is true. My car went threough the same thing. They had to measure the parts and order the matching clutches. There are two ways to fix things , one is a repair, one is a quality repair. I know people who have fixed it themselves with dealers parts, and others that have gone to tranny shops and had problems. I left mine to the professionals, especially if there is a transition year involved, where things were changes mid stream, but we don't about it. Mine cost me 850.00 total nipper

Yes that could be the problem. Oe sensors are built to a differnt spec then OE replacement sensors. Part Mfg's dont do as rigourous testing for replacment parts as OE does. Also repl part manufactures like to condensce their parts catalog so they look for parts that are similar, but may not exactly perform the same. Transmission - could be winter. They shift a little odd in winter and if your not used to it it can be a little odd. Good news is that if it goeas away in warm weather, its just the winter program. Bad news if it is still there, there isnt much to be done. I think its just the cold weather shift pattern. Steering - Need more details. If it is pulsing the pump may be getting tired. Check your belt and maybe drain the resevoir and refill. If the steering binds at either extreeme when cold then gets better as it warms up then its the rack. Also check the universal joint in the steering shaft, as that can give a binding feeling, if it is fairly consitant. nipper

Head Gasket, for all the reasons cited above nipper

Wouldnt it just be easier to change shoes? nipper

Remove the battery cable for ten minutes (some prefer 30) then reconnnect it. nipper

Sometimes settings like that are also programed into the valet key. They make the car less of a parking lot hot rod. Also when the daughter borrows the car .... nipper

Crazy people.... On paper you would not have as much power on two mis matched engines added together as you would with teo matched engines Lets do easy numbers: 100hp (#1) + 100 hp (#2) = 200 hp 100hp (#1) + 80 hp (#2) = 180hp, except that the highe power engine would also be powering the lower power engine. So (remeber making things simple) output would be lowered by the break hp loss of the second engine to some degree. The larger engine will be working harder and have alot more stress on it. Also the two engines will have differnt HP and torque curves, and can cxause issues with the fuel delivery. When one engine is getting on its power band, if the other isnt in its power band, one engine can be driving the other and causing all sorts of problems. This is why whenever you see anything with two engines they are of the same size (unless one engine is only used for light duty slow speed operation). nipper PS i like the idea

Here is something to try, i know it works in Audis. Can you stall your dbw car when engaging first gear. In an audi the DBW wont let it happen, don't know if a stick soobie will do the same (level ground of course). nipper

Car may be staying in open loop. If it is it wont throw a code, but you will see poor gas milage (but there is always one that says they are fine) and the performance wont be as good as with a functioning one. Keep in mind performance means emiisions, acceleration, driveabilty and gas mileage. nipper

Thats I was taught to do it by my father (whos knowledge dates back to shooting at Fuji equipment), in highschool shop, and in engineeering school. nipper

Also very important... use the little pack of lubricant that comes with the wires on the spark plug end. If you dont the wires may be neerly impossible top remove from the plugs. nipper

Almost. The power in the manual tranny goes to the rear when its needed, otherwise the rear wheels are along for the ride. This is the huge difference between that and the 4eat, which determins when to send more power no matter the conditions. The viscous coupling needs the front and rear axle to spin at different speeds. When that happens the plates inside the coupling sheer the silicopn fluid. As the fluid sheers, it becomes hot. As it heats up it almost becomes a solid. At this stage you have a 50/50 split. When things start spinning at the same speed, the fluid cools down, becomes a liquid, and power is no longer transmitted. nipper Actually let me revise that .... i keep forgetting about the center diff. The center diff splits power all the time to all four wheels. Without the viscous coupling you can have one wheel drive. The vc in the center acts as a LSD to give you two wheel drive. (one front one rear due to open diffs front and rear). Two wheel drive is only if you get really stuck. Diffs are fasinating things, a perfect mechanical computer that constantly splits power f/r and l/r . The weakness is that the wheel with the least amount of traction gets the most power, as the diff cant tell if your slipping or going through a curve. the VC is usually designed in the neighboor hood of 6-8% speed differential between the two outputs, and thats where hook up occures. They are a bit slow to get to 50/50, but they do the job. Now if there was just a VC in the center of the car, then it would be FWD with part time AWD (only when needed). Hope i didnt confuse anyone

It should be two engines of the same size. Otyherwise it will be out of balance, and you can possibly overpwoer the weaker engine. I would go with the 2.2L since the seem to be indistructable. I dont know if you can find two 6 cylinder engines. nipper

Read more, TB in manuals is covered here, and it does happen in manuals. Thats just when it happens in a manual there isnt anything you can do about it besides fix it, so its not discussed at length nipper

So would I nipper

Tell me about it. My altenator was putting out way too much voltage, so i had it replaced. a month later the battery (from wally world -came with the car 2 yrs old) died. My mechanic installed the battery and checked the altenator he put in (yes my back wont let me pick up a bateery yet). The Alt is putting out plenty of voltage, but my scan gauge and factory batt gauge tells me its a 1/2 - 1 volt lower then i like. I added a 10 gauge wire from the negative terminal to the altenator, which helped the odd transmission shifting the car was doing, but i still dont like the voltage. I don't know where i am loosing the voltage. I am seriously considering replacing the battery cables. nipper

There can be differences within the same brand of tires of the same size, let alone differnt brands. Since it sounds like you found a good tranny shop (nearly impossible to do), Ask him to measure the tires. Since he knows AWD he will understand your concern. nipper

If your going to remove them, dont bother cleaning them, just replace them. Cleaning doesnt do anything for the erosion that happens around the fuel outlets. nipper

make it 100%. i missed the year of the donor cluster. nipper

Not to mention 100 bolts. I was hoping for more then 130K on one, like almost 200K. 200K would justify the expense. How bad wa sit to set up the timing? New Tribeccas 08 will have a more powerful engine. There will be good deals on 06 (i thihk they are skipping 07 not sure from a design point of view) or wait till the end of this year for the 08. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1225173

Round, black, and a small flat spot on the bottom go to http://www.tirerack.com They have great real world reviews. nipper

EEEEEKKKK Back away from the additve ..... Anything that says its going to flush or cklean part of your engine is not a good thing. The only thing that seems to work well is seafoam. nipper

I agree its normal at idle, but 14 volts is a little high. It's a sign its on its way out. nipper

Switching from Dino to Synthetic is ok. What may happen is if you had any seals that were going to leak, it would accelerate the process. Switching back from Syn to Dino is more risky, again because it tends to tends to make the seals more likely to leak. It wont harm the engine mechanically. nipper