nipper

ABS is not a ground for failure in any state that i know of. All they car about is that the service brake and parking brake works. If you pull the fuse for the ABS it should kill the light. Now if the ABS unit was leaking it may be a differnt story. nipper

hehehe you dont know me very well. i have made peace with the fact after 200,000 miles the drivers seat back heater died. The power antenna on the other hand, it needs to work. It has to work. It will work ..... cause , well, gee, i like it nipper

At 109,000 miles, if you stand your ground, you may be able to get something from subaru. It doesnt hurt to talk to the feild rep. Make sure you tell them that you know all about the head gasket issues. nipper

Just for the record, how many miles are on this car? nipper

I agree with cookie. But also i am not convinced you need HGs. Have you been complaing of fluid loss? Also if you have, and its not a huge amount of fluid (ocassionally topping off) i would live with it. I get very suspicous when a car goes in with no real complaints and they find something major. Missfire can be wires, plugs, injectors or coil towers. First try moving the ignition wires around and see if the problem moves. If it doesnt spray the engine with a water bottle while its running and look for arcing. Cat effeciency at almost 200K would be the front o2 sensor. It can even be the rear one at that mileage. nipper

Here are the code links (scroll down a bit) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19805 nipper

Maybe years of expieirence with subaru AWD units? I did not say ANYWHERE for him to spend money. My Post: "You have torque bind. DO a search here. Take it back to the dealer, show him the dragging, and tell him the duty C solenoid and the clutch pack are shot. It's an 800.00 repair. If you didnt have a warrenty we would suggest some things to try, but since you do, let him deal with it. You can try putting the fuse in the FWD fuse holder under the hood, but with an electrical failure that doesnt usually work." I said since he has a warrenty there is no reason for us to go through all the alternatives. I spoke the truth. Re read his second post. He is blessed with a 6 month warrenty on a older used car. He should take full advantage of it. "96 Impreza OBW with 113k (almost) seems like brakes dragging in really tight turns... dealer used cheap brake pads, etc... I've been thinking it was that... Good thing I got the warranty (6mo/7500mi) with it, if it's tranny issues..." WHy dont you critisize other people when they come on here with a problem, and our first response is "its under warrenty, take it to the dealer" This is the same thing. And as far as scaring people, i have often gone down the list with people on things to rule out, starting with tires. It's interesting to see that you didnt even list that. I left it out since he already said he has new tires. That also made me suspicous that maybe the first set didnt match. nipper PS someplace on the site someone has posted the tranny codes, i'll see if i can find them. I had a hard drive crash and used to have that stuff stored, now i have to try to find it again.

Synthetic power antenna lubricant, right next to the blinker fluid. WD40 would work. I think its more of an issue of cleaning the dirt off the mast as well as lubricating it. I would avoid any lubricant with any body too it, as it would capture dirt and can stain clothes. nipper

GrrrRRRRrrrRRRrrrRRRRrr A not so nice sound. I need a new power antenna mast for Blu (97 OBW). Where can i get one? nipper

You have torque bind. DO a search here. Take it back to the dealer, show him the dragging, and tell him the duty C solenoid and the clutch pack are shot. It's an 800.00 repair. If you didnt have a warrenty we would suggest some things to try, but since you do, let him deal with it. You can try putting the fuse in the FWD fuse holder under the hood, but with an electrical failure that doesnt usually work. nipper

Year and mileage please. It should blink 16 times if there is a problem, not 5 times. Are you sure your counting it right? A blinking ATF light is telling you the last time the car was operated there was an electrical issue. It could mean a failed solenoid or bad fluid temp sensor. What happens in tight turns? nipper

Actually he needs to replace his coolant, thats first. Secondly you need to make sure there is no air in the system. As long as he's doping that, replace the radiator cap too. It's possible that its a HG issue, but i am not feeling it right now. nipper

It's always necessary to take them to a machine shop and at the very least have them checked. If they need it they need it. nipper

Well generally one doesnt do it with the car running, and thats how you will get air in the system. So youll be fine nipper

When was the last time this thing got a real tuneup? nipper

I have not heard good things about OE forester tires. If i was you ild just go to www.tirerack.com and do some research on tires and replace all 4. nipper

Just remove the resivoir and clean it. It can be minerals from someone using tap water in the cooling system, can just be crud. nipper

Your forgetting one other thing. You will need to either have the radiator professionally cleaned or replace it. Oil + antifreeze + water + air (from sitting empty once you yank the engine) = Glue. Since you have owned the car since new, i vote for the HG replacement with the head rebuild. The 2.2 is unbeatable, and even if god forbid the engine went poof. you would still have to get the heads rebuilt anyway with a new shortblock. nipper

its a 2:1 ratio, between the crank and cams. One turn of the crank is two turns of the cam. Like cookie said, just use the timing marks for belt installation. nipper

Intermittent failures with no spark, i would syspoect the cam and crank sensors. Next time it happens, use an analog AC meter to check them for a heart beat. i think its the crank that determines spark, but dont remember off hand. nipper

You either get a used driveshaft, or take yours to a driveshaft shop where they will rebuild it. As per subaru, they are not servicable (but anything can be fixed with the proper tools). The carrier bearing is in the center of the car under the floor, where the two driveshafts meet. nipper

Have the charging system inspected. Clean the battery terminals. Check the engine ground cable. nipper

ild say its the pump. A rack goes bad by being stiff in the morning untill the pump and fluid warms up.... dang there is a dirty joke in there some place. Besides a pump is easier and cheaper then a rack to give a go at first. nipper

but its ugly i prefer my 1998. My freind with a 2006 and i did a side by side comparison. mine was quicker off the line. Odd when i rented a 2006, i thought from the drivers seat it felt smaller, but the rear of the wagon seemd larger. nipper

reseal the oil pump cam seals main (crank) seal water pump thermostat tensioner idlers timing belt drive belts (you already have them off) Radiator cap The list may seem long, but you wont have to touch anything on that end of the engine for another 108K. By then the engine should be just broken in nipper