nipper

#2, they have been selling these things for a while, and they rarely get a return. I know what your talking about. As long as your exhaust hangers are in good shape, it should be fine. If you do call them, be nice, dont yell. Its the second call you yell at them, not the first. nipper

Assuming youve cleaned the battery cables... Solenoid contacts. Do a search here, its an easy repair. nipper

Yes thats a reason for automatic rejection. No CEL when the car is turned on. nipper

You know this is really screwing up with my reasoning to drive a 4 cyl, to keep me out of trouble.... *drool* nipper

Back to basics. Fuel, air, spark. For now we assume air is supplied:-p Do you have spark? Do you have fuel flow? nipper

where? nipper

If i could find a new wiper arm for the rear i would buy it, as i need one too. nipper

that means it should be around the slow blow fuse #4 in the man fuse box under the hood Before the fuse is the alt/battery junction, after it is the ignition switch. Next time it happens, notice if your dome lights work. Also just removing and putting the fuses back in is sometimes enough to clean any corroded connectors. nipper

who changed the oil for you? nipper

and check the frame grounds. I had a weird charging problem that was fixed with a new battery to engine ground. Also look at the main relay and the fuel pump relay coil. It can be one of those have a loose connector or a dying coil. DO you have a total loss of all things electrical, or just some systems. nipper

There is always one ..... and this time its me. i am not thrilled with them. For some reason i am not getting full contact at the very upper tip of the passenger side. The last snow storm we had the upper drivers side tip kept icing up, which required the constant slapping of the blade. If the last long, maybe ill replace my wiper arms and see if that fixes the problem. Or does someone know where i can get wiper arm springs ? nipper

i was giving the readers digest version (i have fully explained it many many many many times). Sometiems i get tired of repeating myself ... and getting for critisizing the switches. Actually it fully energizes the solenoid. This dumps all the pressure, so there is zero torque applied to the rear wheels. The switch to the C solenoid does the opposit, which puts the car in full unmodulated 50/50 lockup. so this time you can be the target :-p (that and im sick with an apendix that can't make up its mind what it wants to do) nipper

now THAT i like, thats why i would like to do a justy oh hell just give me a justy nipper

No oilpressure switch interlock. When it starts, how long does it run for, and is it a stumble run or a regular run. That clatter .... which Timing belt idler did you not replace? was the tensioner installed properly Double check the timing, it can be off, as it happens to the best of us. nipper

Well if all go goes well in my world between now and mid summer, i should be passing through on my way back from alaska. i like the PNW, enough to be thinking about a relocation. nipper

http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/Misc/faq/ready_not.htm http://www.epa.state.oh.us/dapc/echeck/testing_info/obd_faq.html#notready Are a couple of explinations of not ready. Seems like Subaru does not have a "not ready" issue. Everytime i reset using scantool it seems to become ready rather quickly. I would like to know which one has a "few weeks" to be ready. First thing that came into my head was ford ... but i am probably wrong. nipper

:cool: nipper

its four bolts, two per side. Should be easy. And in answer to your last question ... er um yes :-p Do the simple test first. The only other reason you would be rev limited is if the car is in limp mode, but i think even that limits you to 5000 RPM. nipper

I dont think the really lift the cars, its just the weight of the car hanging upside down that makes them look lifted.... mmmmmmmmmm good pain pills pretty colors :-p hehehehe nipper

Sounds like you have a clogged catalytic converter/exhaust system. There is a simple test for the cat, which you neighbors wont like you. Dissconnect the exhaust system. Start the car and try your rev test. If the negine will freely rev past 4K, then you know its an exhaust isuue. Next discconect the muffler and repeat. Usually a muffler just falls apart, but sometimes they clog. Sometiems an exhaust pipe can internally collpase. nipper

look at jc whitney as they use wagner pipes. ALso go to the corner autoparts store, you may be nicely surprised. SUbaru Genuine parts list a muffler at 51.00 (give jamie a call) nipper

So we all missed it. you want to cut the power to the Duty C solenoid, not hold it open. Holding the solenoid open is the same as putting the FWD fuse in the holder. It dumps all the pressure to the clutch pack so you get zero rear wheel drive. nipper

Replace the o2 sensor if your getting a failed cat code. 99% of the time a poor cat performance code is the front o2 sensor. What it says is that if you come in for inspection and the CEL is on, you automatically are rejected for testing ( do not pass go do not enter the shop). Not ready means that there is a communication or other OBDII issue (like sensors missing) your automatically rejected. 1996 Subaru and chrysler products listed can be inspected if the CEL is on, due to the CEL coming on for other reasons not related to emissions. For instance, a bad VSS sensor will illuminate the CEL, but isnt a failed emission part. So replace the front o2 sensor. The fact that you have been passing emissions tells me your cat is fine, but the o2 sensor is whacked. nipper

me talk funny, or is that spell funny (pain pills and poor typing not a good mix). I have heard differnt opinions on flipping the differential. It really depends on the use of the vehical. As a toy it is probably fine, but it tends to change the thrust surfaces location. Now your giving me ideas on my awd corvair project, bad bad bad nipper

watery? hrmmmm Just out of curiosity, check your radiator fluid. I just want to make sure you dont have a leaky auto cooler (its rare bit it happens). nipper