nipper

What he said. Its the dirveshaft U joint, or the carrier bearing, or both. nipper

How is the idle speed? INspect the universal joints under the car, as that is really the only thing that will clunk. A motor mount or tranny mount may thud. Otehrwise its just driveline wear, when was the oil in the diffs changed last nipper

Stick a ground down subaru key in the ignintion. While trying to turn the key rap the cylinder. The force of turning the cylinder will hold the spring loaded pins in place while the rapping of the cylinder makes the pins bounce...... or so i heard nipper

Did this ever get a transmission fluid flush? Did he make sure all his tires match and are properly inflated? This car does not have a center diff if its an automatic. The car has an clucth pack that is controled by the TCU and line pressure from the front pump. There are extensive posts on this that go into some detail how the tranny operates. In all honesty, anyone who attempts to repair anything should have a basic understanding how it operate before he dives into it. Sorry if i am repeating anyone, but i had a puter meltdown.

????? This is what an open differential does. The clutch pack has nothing to do with turning a wheel with one wheel off the ground. If he had a LSD then he wounldnt be able to do it. With the car off the rear drivetrain freewheels, since the front pump is not producing any pressure to engage the clutchpack.

Sorry but your in error. The 16 flashes mean that there was an electro/electromechanical fault the last time the car was operated. It is telling you that you need to pull the code and find out. There are other solenoids and sesnsors in the transmission besides the Duty C that can fail. If you Start the car and dont move it it will clear the code. If the light keeps coming back it means that the fault existed the last time the car was driven. The TCU is self clearing, and the Transmission failures 99 % of the time are hard failures. nipper

SOHC, it may just affect the intake lobes. I have to read up more on it. I've been wondering how these differnt methods of valve timing variation will change. Some require the use of oil pressure to do all the work. Will be interesting as they hit 150K or more. Of course if it slowly stops working over time, you may not notice it. nipper

There are several differnt pump designs. Some just move fluid while immersed, or need to be primed first.. Others will pull the fluid into them and then push it out, those are self priming pumps. nipper

just turn the little switch with the key to on, then start. The air will take care of itself. The only time you have to bleed fuel lines is when your taking them apart to get rid of the pressure. nipper

http://www.subaru.co.nz/Technical_Lab/News/index.php?article=684 does that help? nipper

yes. Its not the number our looking for, but the heart beat. The weak spark has me concerned nipper

Ask CCR they will give you a straight answer. nipper

much better, but i would have prevered them in the oppsit direction, the direction that force would be applied, but it should work. nipper

Get yoursel a haynes manual, not all sesnors are checked by resistance. You can hear the fuel injectos click. If you cant hear them click you need to check the cam and crank sesnors for AC output with an analog meter as the engine turns. There is a pulse pattern described in the haynes manual. The weak spark is troublesome. It should be a strong blue spark. Start by checking those two sensors. Another possability is the engine temp sesnor for the TCU but i want to rule the other two out first. nipper

well not this week ...... just if it comes back, the additive is the last ditch effort to fix it good luck nipper

i wouldnt rule out the brakes, especially on a car you just bought. Can be a heat sheild. SOunds travel in a car so they arent always where you think they are. and welcome nipper

1/4" play along the axis of the shaft is fine. There should be no play in the X Y direction of the universal joints or the carrier bearing. nipper

Is it possible the splines werent that great a shape to begin with? nipper

It depends upon how chewed up the flywheel is. Subaru flywheels dont like having alot of material taken off (if you have deep grooves). Ask them for more reasons. nipper

I saw the same episode (and felt really bad for the dog) And yes........ You do need to get out more. nipper

www.cars101.com 106,000 miles. I never had a valve adjustment in 191,000 miles. when the engine threw a rod it got a valve adjustment :-p nipper

whatever you do dont return the part (murphies law). If it was me I would install the replacement and be done with it. nipper

I dont like it. There is one way to find out if it is the PS pump. If this is happening on ALL left turns remove the accessory drive belt. Go for a short drive (around the block) and see if it goes away. If it does then maybe ill buy into the PS pump. I dont like the PS pump argument because it should happen on both left and right hand turns. If you do this test remove PS fluid from the resivoir, as you may pump the fluid out of the rack into the resivoir and make a mess. http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/steering/FtSteeringSystemsSp99.pdf nipper

I never know who has what under their hoods anymore, so i just go with it. nipper

I applaud the fact that they did that. Aparently they told the tech, don't come back untill you see the problem or solve it. Thats a good dealership. nipper