nipper

E81 i had a feeling it was in the mid 1980's. nipper

Ive wondered about if that would work in a legacy. I dont hink its a direct swap. The newer clusters have 4 main plugs, then there is the two wire plug for the spedo. You would have to figure out how to convert to a electronic spedo. nipper

Burst Radiator hose Intermittent temp rise Air getting in system Cheap fix first, new radiator cap. Expensive fix second , Head Gasket. If the shop had introduced air in the system it would have happened as soon as you left the shop. You dont check the coolant resevoir, you check the radiator itself. Why all the work at 165,000 miles? nipper

Just wait for brake (prius has a hybrid system that sucks when dynamic brakeing fails) by wire and steering by wire ... Someone is going to be walking soon. nipper

Anything that ads oil capacity to the lubrication system is a good thing. Remote oil filters will also expose more oil to the air. I may be wrong, but Ive seen a cooler that went in like a sandwich plate, fed the tstat housing, and returned. I wish i kept that picture. nipper

The waterpump will leak, so it will give a warning before a mechnaical failure. Look at the labor charge on the bill. Thats what it will cost to replace any of the leaky seals in the future. If the HG is being replaced, there should be no labor charge for replacing the timing belt (if that is what your asking). They have to remove the timing belt to get to the seals, water pump, and oil pump. nipper

There are some really painful moments there, i dont think thats the only one where people died.. nipper

I used to test ignition wires, so i speak more from the test engineer end then from the car runs funny end. NAPPA may have a good source making thier wires for them, but alot of after market wires are crap. One other aftermarket that is good is Bluestreak. Also it depends how often you want to change the parts. Subaru wires can go 100,000 miles (and the plugs). Subaru has a really low (read make the dealer money) interval on these things. I look at it this way, The original part went well over 100K, I am buying the original part again. There have nbeen many cases on here of people having issues with aftermarket wires. I dont even have a napa near me, not all of us do. As far as the O2 sensor, you get what you pay for :-p nipper

Do the valve job, dont worry about the rings. These engines seem to be fairly robust. If you do do the rings, then you have to hone the cylinders, and might as well get the new pistons that correct the slap... then your into new engine territory. nipper

Sometimes i hate diagnosing things over the net, I/we can be off by miles. I had one loosen up on me also. I lucked out as it did no damage. No you wondlnt be able to move it by hand unless the drivebelts were off. And even then if you could that would be very bad. Have you had any work done to the front of the engine in the last year? nipper

No suggestion needed, you nailed it. nipper

Running low on oil on these engines seems to catch up with you in time. The noise may just be the camera, but that deep noise is very discomforting. nipper

Steel pistons? Thats really odd. Usually you want lighter pistons for a few reasons. the first one is higher revs and faster throttle response. The second is for combustion temps and emissions. Cars have been using aluminum pistons for ages. I see nothing but negatives to using steel pistons. I know of some that use a steel crown and an aluminum skirt. Heavy Duty Deisel engines use them also, but they are generally big low reveing lazy engines compared to ours. nipper

Thats not alot of wobble, but MAN is that a noisey engine. It sounbds like you have more then one Rod knocking there. So what do you mean by the car running low on oil "again" nipper

No no no no You have a new raditor, you shold be ok. Its the older radiators I worry about. A 1993 subaru will have scale inside the radiator. It doesnt take much to clog up a radiator that has rough internal passageways. the roughness will capture any globule mass and start clogging up (like arteries). If you have a new radiator, you should be ok with a flush. You ccould even just flush it out of the car if you wanted too. Just remeber onbce everything is flushed to fill the cooling system with 50/50 premix or use demineralized water. nipper nipper

Coils can come from anywhere. Ignition wires need to be Original Equipment. nipper

This is going to be another learning curve with every manufacturer to get it right. Look at all the toyota complaints about lack of throttle/transmission downshift response. nipper

Well I am hoping that the fuse works to try and save the AWD clutches from chewing themselves up. The tailhousing looked fine then, only god knows what it looks like now. You also need to take the clutch pck apart to see what condition it is in. I dont know what you mean by freeplay in the clutchpack. Freeplay there would cause the AWD to not work at all. In fact with the car off the output shaft to the rear wheels should spin. This is an old clutch pack and it cant take alot of abuse after 14 years. I am not convinced its a TCU issue at this point. The harness just check the connections. TCU can be gotten from scrap yards, as they are fairly robust. Also thee TCU is smart, it can tell when the valve is stuck open, stuck closed, has an open or a short. There is also another component in the AWD system, a spool valve in the AWD housing that can be bad. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EATPh1Win04.pdf see if that will help. nipper

That explains the loss of oil. The pull came loose and tore the hell out of the front seal. There is probably some crankshaft damage too, where the keyway is. Even if that solved all the problems, I wouldnt trust this engine any longer. nipper

This is torque bind. Go out right now and check your tire pressures. Have you replaced a tire recently? On a manual there isnt much you can do once TB rears its ugly head. You may just have a low tire. If all the tires match, you need to start saving your pennies for a repair of the AWD unit. Someone is going to jump in and say try aa additve, but the AWD unit is sealed with its own fluid and there is no fluid to change. The reason why it takes some time for it to show up is because it takes that long for the fluid to heat up and start applying the AWD. I am hoping its just a tire issue and nothing else. nipper

No that would mean that there is something wrong with the harness, connector or wire that feeds the light. If it comes on at the ecu and the signal isnt being carried to the dash, means (to me without seing it myself) the ECU works fine. nipper

The engine is scrap. Never run an engine without oil unless you are in the middle of no where and have no choice. Even then, you need to know that the engine is scrap. Sounds like the cylinders are heavily scored. In this case no oil most likley blew a HG, or cracked the block. Oil is also a coolant as well as a lubricant. Time to shop for engines. Also replace the radiator, as im sure there is oil in there making a nice glue right now. nipper

Was it a new duty C that was installed? Wiring is fairly easy to check with a meter. I dont know how get the codes from this model,ill look later. What happens when the fuse is in. Also any time you get TB you need to try the fuse first, as every mile you drive with TB your shortening the life of your clutchpack. nipper

Struts fall under body reapir, tailgate or trunk. But you can get these from anywhere. nipper