nipper

i saw someone on the net who did it, i dont remeber where. Do a search on google you may trip over it again. nipper

i want. Lift Kit 1997 Outback. Blu can use a treat. nipper

Why not just solve the problem with an auxiliary vaccum pump. They do that on the cars with cruise. nipper i can see that bottle breaking..

Dipsticks on these cars are hard to read at times. When was the last time a timing belt was done? When you do the main seal, do the oil pump seals, cam seals, and really should do the timing belt (water pump and idlers if they never been done) all at once. This way your done with it for the next 60,000 miles (and 120,000 for the water pump). nipper

Lets clear a few things up. first off congratulations you did everything correct. If i was you i would just replace the headgaskets and rebuild the heads. There is no differnce between a new Engine and a rebuilt engine. They are both rebuilt engines. Evenb if you could get a fresh off the factory floor engine, sometimes a rebuild is better. Secondly, the car is not worth it? Unless its beat to hell, it it is. Your subaru just hit middle age and has another 100,000 miles left in it. A car is not JUST its engine, its the sum of the whole. If everything else is working, and the cost of a new outback is getting towards 30K, its worth it (not to mention insurance). i put a dealer rebuilt engine in Blu when he threw a rod, for those very reasons (ok a seat heater doesnt work). Subaru dealer hybrid blocks are rebuilt by a major deisel engine mfg in the south, so i am very positive it will outlive the car. Now if you have that nasty plastic seperator in the back of the engine, now may be a good time to pull the engine and get rid of that. Good luck, but you did the right things to minimize damage. Dont forget an oil change. nipper

i vote for a choke problem. nipper

Clutch is fine. Thats the std clutch test when the clutch is supect. It may be the coil is tired. They are waste ignition systems. That means 1-2 and 3-4 fire at the same time. When you get a misfire on both it usually means its a coil issue. Beofre you replace the coil, swap around the wires and see if the problem moves. You should still get a set of plugs. Haynes is a great manual, chiltons is bad. nipper

They are two in the same thing, and we tend to use the names interchangably. Haynes manual is straight forward in it, Raise car, unplug, unbolt, reverse to put it back on. nipper

picky. You raise it. you know what i meant (not like the links that i posted dont explain that, though i get the feeling no one reads them) nipper

Just learn to parallel park like the rest of us nipper

Every Japanese car i ever had, the brake and battery light would cpome on when the ALT died. I think its just the way they decide to wire their cars. nipper

Does it crank normally when its cold or just like a half crank. Clean your battery cables. Can be a bad battery or bad starter. If the battery is old, i would load test it, as that would be my prime suspect. Also define "cold" nipper

Drive the car in tight circles at parking lot speeds. Make sure it moves smoothly with very little or no throttle at all. Make sure the tires match If those two things are good then it should be ok. nipper

Well thats a good thing, then we can rule out a HG issue for now. nipper

Neutral saftey switch. NSS It is easy to do. Its under the car on the transmission, very straight forward. Youll work harder to get the car in the air to get under it then removing the switch nipper

Well it sort of is acting normal but ...... You should have the 16psi cap. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system8.htm http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_work/cooling.htm http://www.radiatorinfo.com/radtip.html Now that said, does the car run hot? Has it over heated? What condition is the radiator in? The purpose of the cap is to pressurize the system. By pressureizing it you lower the boiling point of the coolant. This allows the coolant to hold more heat. Now a bad thermostat can screw this up. A stuck cap. A blown head gasket. If one coolant line has blown, they should all be replaced, as they are all weak due to age.

Lets hope so. Anything with the word module in it isnt cheap. i didnt see anything on my wiring diagram. i do know that there are a couple of differnt lighting circuits on the radio, lets just hop he tapped the frong one and got the module confused. nipper

The dimmer itself is still a rheostat, but it feeds into the lighting module. There is no direct control through the dimmer itself. So yes you may have upset the module. The selector light comes right out of the module(at least on the legacy). Impreza shouldnt be too much different. nipper

Sounds more like a wheel bearing, and those can happen at the same time, a cv joint and a wheel bearing. What was the pattern of wear on the tire? nipper

But to take orders you have to acknoledge them. i sent them a private email i hope that gets answered. i have a check here from my insurance company that would pay for the kit nipper

lower. That wil just cure the bang. nipper

ive been trying to contact them but their mailbox is full nipper

1- all the tires match (equally worn same brand and age) ? 2- all tires inflated equally ? 3- install FWD fuse and see if it goes away. 4- flush the tranny and see if that fixes it. Someone is going to blame the Duty C solenoid, but since your njot getting an angry dash light at startup its fine. If a tranny flushdoesnt help then you are going to need a clutchpack. Do a search on Torque Bind. At the same time you replace the tranny mount. nipper

What two wires. Its sounds like you wired the ground and hot together? It also can be it was just time for the bulbs to burn out. Take a meter to the bulbs and see if the bulbs are good to start with. nipper

You started throwing good money out when you bought that BS line from the dealer. Go to a chain autoparts store and have them read the code. Tell us what the code is. That dealer is an idiot, he never looked at the spark plugs. There is a lot of work to remove the plugs, and he missed an opportunity to sell you new ones. He is not going to pull plugs and reinstall the old ones. I bet he didnt even yank them. We cant even begin to tell you what is causing the CEL untill we know what the code is. Rear noise can be as simple as time for brake pads. nipper