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Everything posted by nipper
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If this is a manual you can drop the driveshaft. nipper
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Yes and yes. Also RWD is tradditionally 3 point mounts, two at the engine one at the tranny, so that makes it really easy. nipper
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Woof er um ers
nipper replied to nipper's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
When Blu is happy i am happy. 600 watts and all is well, I dont need a sub woofer. I am very good at annoying the cars around me with nickleback without one nipper -
hard to shift and hard clutch pedal
nipper replied to BlueRu's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
OK im going to suspect the cable. Not everything that is yellow is gold, and how many fiats do you see running around. Disconnect the cable from the fork and make sure you can move the fork by hand. I dont expect you to negage the clutch, but youll know fairly cuick if the fork is seized or not. nipper -
hard to shift and hard clutch pedal
nipper replied to BlueRu's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Is it an OE cable or after market. Either its a poor quality cable or there is something causing it to stretch. Is there any free play at the clutch fork? How old is the clutch? There arent that many parts here to go wrong. Is there any free play at the clutch fork? nipper -
hard to shift and hard clutch pedal
nipper replied to BlueRu's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You havent lived untill you drove a car with one speed and no clutch in traffic nipper -
hard to shift and hard clutch pedal
nipper replied to BlueRu's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You need a clutch cable. The cable is stretching and fraying. Eventually you will have a really easy club pedal as it lays on the floor. nipper -
Yes. Well Blu may go to Alaska this year, thats why i want the gauges hooked upo, and why i have a CB question on the board. The TT has s amll turbo and larger one, theory is the smaller one spins up faster at lower RPM. I am really happy with the new engine, cost be damned. I told them i didnt want to open the hood for 106,000 miles, so they replaced things I wouldnt normally. But this way I got a 3/36K warrenty too. nipper
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every 106,000 miles or every 120,000 (60x2) I change Timing belt Tensioner Idler Cam seals Main Seal re seal the oil pump (replace at 200K) Water pump T stat It may seem expensive, but what is your time worth? any one of those parts failing mean at the very least tearing the front of the engine apart again. Do ti once and your guarenteed not to have to do it again untill the next interval. DOing these things in peice meal is far more expensive then doing it all at once. And it can be extreemly expensive if you have an interfernce engine. Asking seals or idler/tensioner to last over 120K is asking alot of them. Look at all the time you have already invested. If it turns out you have a bad tensioner, guess what. You need to tear everything down again. Thats time lost. nipper
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HELL YES! Thats the doohicky . I dont have an intercooler so it should be easy. I have the JDM oil press oil temp and voltage gauges and sensors. There als are some mystery electronics which i cant figure out (anyone want to see a pic). Best i can tell the mystery electronics are not needed (may have to do with a turbo timer not sure). The gauges are in my photo gallery nipper