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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. If you had no issues till now, i dont think you will hurt anything. If you notice a decrease in performance or any other oddities, then you'll need to replace it sooner then later. nipper
  2. Mine was the same way, except i was climbing donner pass. Mine went through the top of the block http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=935 The pic is fuzzy as it is from a cell phone, but you can see the damage. It seems rod knock on a sooby is a sign of impending doom, not something that you can just baby for a while. nipper
  3. Rotors dont cost much. Since you have everything apart i would go with new. While your there, get a new hardware kit for the parking brake also. If cost is an issue, you can use the old rotors, nipper
  4. How many teeth did it jump. If it only jumped a few teeth then you should be ok. Dont forget a new tensioner, seals and waterpump while your there. nipper
  5. Now here i thought that was while the engine was running. I'll have to see if i still have the FSM out of curiosity and look at the guts of the tranny. nipper
  6. The only problem with the black tape is if something else goes wrong and he gets an angry CEL light. i dont condone putting tape over them anymore for that reason. Now if he wants to see if he can get a used one in junk yard or two, that may work well. nipper
  7. I've done it a few times (not saying that its right but didnt know it was wrong either). Then how come the occasional thread comes up that the car will start, will shift, will rev, but wont move. Usually its the d/r accidentally put in neutral. nipper
  8. If he just got this, and the previous owner replaced the steering knuckles (unheard of).... he better check his tires anyway. Make sure they all match so he doesnt chew up the AWD system. nipper
  9. Normally i would say that stuff is crap. But considering he has a bad rod knock, it cant make things any worse. But be ware, rod knock can terminate with a hole in the block. nipper
  10. Th steering knucle"s" are not the universal in the column. The knuckles are on the parts that hold the wheel bearings. You dont replace them generally, you just replace the wheel bearings. There are a few possibilities here 1- broken belts in the tires 2- out of balance tires 3- bad wheel bearings 4- Bad universal joint in the driveshaft 5- Bad carrier bearing (same place as above). And as stated above, it needs an alighnment. nipper
  11. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72062&highlight=daughter look there and welcome. nipper
  12. Even when there is no sun (clouds) there is enough light to make some power. nipper
  13. It was a good outline. Though the one thing he skipped was lightening the flywheel. With no ignition pulses to smooth out, he could have made it really light and gotten some extra range out it. The range is about right considering its a brick. I would like to see how he worked out the HVAC. That would be a huge power robber. nipper
  14. If its a universal try mounting it low in the door. There should be enough room for it. You may have to come up with a linkage. nipper
  15. Thats called a stall test, and there is absoloutly no reason to dio one in a subaru, as they dont seem to have torque converter problems. Unless you know what your doing you can damage the transmission. You also need to know what the stall speed of the torque converter is. The only thing you do for sooby automatics is make sure the selector will go through all the gears. Drive the car with a warm tranny. Check the fluid condition. If you buying a used car with an automatic that has questionable perfomance be prepared to swap it out. i wont even recomend a rebuild anymore, due to the price. And with either one drive in tight circles to check for torque bind. nipper
  16. Its the standard test for a bad clutch. there is always an exception to every rule, and everyon has a freind where "X" never affected him (including me). But i can safely say after pulling wrenches for mor over 20 years, its a safe test. Also at 23K he should not be able to do that. Thats considered a bad clutch. Imagine being in third gear climbing a hill with a full car. Thats is what the test recreats. nipper
  17. You can drive it, just be nice to it and dont drive it hard. nipper
  18. i've put them in a 1967 chevy corvair, does that count? I would get a universal actuator kit. You can usually get a singe actuator. With a little imagination you can get them to work rather well. nipper
  19. At 118,000 miles be fully aware of a few things. The timing belt The clutch. Do one more test. Try to start off from a dead stop in 3rd/4th gear. The var should protest buck and stall no matter how hard you try. If you can get the car to move then the clutch will need to be replaced in the near future. nipper
  20. Vaccum pump. Deisels have them. Subarus have them for cruise control, along with other cars with small engines. nipper
  21. I know. Blu not only wants a seondary o2 sensor, but also wants a drive shaft boot and a wheel Bearing. All this cause Blu knew i was getting my SSI back award. Now i have to explain to Blu that the insurance company gets that check, not me. And i can't do any of the repairs myself nipper
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