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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. That sounds like a shorted solenoid sucking all the power out of the car and affecting another relay to me. The flashing tranny light is odd, but its rythmic, not sparadic like a short. nipper
  2. Odd my haynes manual has the gauge as a stand alone sensor, single wire, that goes to ground. Before you go through all that, take an ohm meter to the two ends of the wire and see if there is a short or an open. Its possible the ecu is bad, but check the wires first. nipper
  3. This is why the net sucks, we can't really hear for ourselves whats going on. You may have to take this to a shop to have them diagnose it. You can always reach under the dash and gently shake harnesses to see what happens, but due to the limitations of the net i dont know what to say next. A dead short in the starer solenoid can cause this problem, but may be time just to get a shops opinion. nipper
  4. we need to make a sticky "what to look for when buying a new gen subaru" nipper
  5. WOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooo the temp sesnor if i remember correctly is not in the ecu circuit (gauge temp). What you have is a short or a ground someplace. Radiator fans are controled by the ECU, but the AC will over ride them. You have a wiring problem someplace and not an ECU issue. The temp gauge itself has absoloutly nothing to do with the ecu. If you have a wiring problem, and it did damage the ecu (very long shot) by not finding it you can damage the 2nd ecu. My guess is that you have a bad ground (gauges ground through the sensor) or a short going to ground. Its possible that the fan ecu signal is in the related harness. nipper
  6. After 97 they all have it, before then some do some dont. The reason for it can be everything from fuel economy to protecting the glass. My 1997 doesnt have it. There is a chance that the heat can affect the lamination of the rear window, but im just guessing. the timer in the relay costs money, so there must be a reason to put it there. nipper
  7. Who's fighting, we arent fighting. :-p you want to see fighting, go over to the old gen board and look at the syn vs dino oil discussion, now thats fighting nipper
  8. The AT light is flickering for the same reason the brake light comes on when your altenator goes bad... Electricity is weird. nipper
  9. all this for a loose belt, couldnt you have made it a bit more colorful? hehehe glad you found it nipper
  10. If it flickers 16 times when you turn on the car, it means get it to dealer quickly just to find out whats going on. I suspect your solenoid has a short in it, hence why all the lights flicker when you try to start the car. A starter is something I buy anywhere as a rebuilt unit. I have never had a rebuilt starter go bad on me out of the box. If there is an automotive electrical place near you, they can bench test the starter to confimr that its bad. nipper
  11. You have two problems. The simpler one is you need a starter (or solenoid if your so inclined, I just replace it as a unit). The more important one is the blinking AT light. This needs to be addressed now. Does it blink 16 times then goes out? How does the car drive when you make a U turn? How long has it been blinking. It is trying to tell you there is something wrong with the transmission that needs to be addressed very quickly to avoid a large repair bill. nipper
  12. aside from a few additives p/s fluid and tranny fluid are interchangable as far as the P/S pump is concerned. I wouldnt use P/s steering fluid in my tranny though (unless it was an emergency). nipper
  13. yes it does. your fogetting one thing. Not only is the split controlled by the on/off time of the solenoid, but the solenoid works in conjunction with the spool valve. We are talking two variables here. Also the tcu is still in control of the solenoid, so it can still give you a 50/50 split, but the transmission pump doesnt have to apply as much line pressure to the clutches to maintain that split. Also in Low and Reverse the designers made a few safe assumptions about speed and steering angle, so they can design around that. nipper
  14. see There was a thread here that somone was going to throw a scope on the Duty C Sircuit to see what happens, anyone knows what the outcome of that was? nipper
  15. First off people have posted and responded when you have said prove the failure (three come to mind and i dont think one of them is still on the board) . Right now i dont think anyone wants to wade through the 100's of posts to find the exact posts. This is impossible since there is no set title for the post. This and HG posts are too numerous to wade thru. Yes as I have said before you are the only one where it seems to work for, which should say something. Also the "it's not a toy" comment should tell you why yours works and others dont, because it is a toy. For 98% of the people the TCU does a fine job of managing it. I suspect the other 1% are people trying to get the last legs out of thier AWD unit, and you are the last 1% (hehehe your special). Now that said, the poster can do whatever he wants. I have taken a new philosphy, its not my money, i'm not loaning them my car, so they can do as they please as long as I feel they are warned of the possible outcome. The one thing I would suggest is that the switch be wired into a dropout relay, so that when the car is shut off it resets itself to the normal position. Its not just a solenoid that controls the AWD, its a spol valve that is inside the tranny that also adjusts the pressure to the clutches. When you shut the solenoid off to get 50/50 split, you are dumping full pressure to the clutches (which rarely happens normally) and your odds of chewing up the clutches go up dramatically. The tcu applies just another pressure and duraiton thats needed to get the car going, and as soon as the car gets going it backs off. If you loose sight of how the system works, you will fry the unit. The reason that our friend has a fully functioning long term system is that he respects this and understands how it works. nipper
  16. You cant seal against a scratch, its that simple. The rings are made to seal against a round slightly tapered cylinder that has a cross hatch pattern. This sounds like it was a partial rebuild without honing the cylinder. Now your choices are to either scrap it or do it again the proper way. nipper
  17. (sorry repeated post, ignore this. Site timed out while I posted, so I didnt know it whent through)
  18. And thats why i droped a ton of money in my 1997 for a new engine. I would consider the 4dr jeep wrangler first. Did anyone see the motor trend article on 4 dr sedans chasing after cmary. Is it just me or did they all look identical? Thats another reason i like my 1997, its blue, and it doesnt look like a clone. nipper
  19. Manually shifting an automatic doesnt hurt it. When you shift it manually you are bypassing the valve body. The valve body is a hydraulic computer that balances throttle pressure vs govenor pressure (from the output shaft). The internal spool valves decide when to shift the car. The bands and clutches are applied by these circuits. When you shift manually, you have taken over the job of the hydraulic computer, and the same clutches and bands are still enforce. In some transmissions you bypas the acumulators which are meant to slow down the shifts and make them softer (slips the bands and clutches more). In all honesty, i've known people that have blown trannies that shifted manually. After taking them apart for inspection, to my trained eye, it looked like any transmission that had gone bad (fried clutches), so the tranny would have gone bad anyway. The one way you can damage the tranny slowly is by putting the car in drive without having your foot on the break pedal, this tends to hammer the internal parts. Another is buy going from R to D or D to R without letting the car fully stop. The hard parts were not damaged, and that is the only place where any differnce would have shown up. 80's early 90's automatics were huge power theives, so nothing really helps, as the weak point is the torque converter. If you want to shift a manual, drive a manual, or get a car with a tighter autobox. I ocassionally shift my 97 manually, its a much tighter box, and due to me car accident i cannot drive a stick anymore. nipper
  20. IF its torque bind and its a manual, the only way to check it is by making a low speed full lock turn, just off idle. If you have to give it gas to keep it going or it bucks and jerks at idle speed you have TB. Other wise i would check the tranny mount, and the universals and carrier bearing in the driveshaft. Since you have a manual, you can remove the driveshaft and see if it goes away also. nipper
  21. Its the scored cylinder wall. Thats whats causing all your oil burining. You mention 150psi on three cylinders, what about the fourth right now? nipper
  22. Rear cv joints dont squeel when they go bad. Rear cv joints seldom go bad because they only have 30% of the stress of the front. Examin the wheel bearing. Try driving a very short distance with the parking brake on to see what happens to the noise. The squeel with the fuse in vs out has me thrown. Check the backing plate of the break to make sure its not touching the disc. nipper
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