nipper

Welcome to differntial class 101 and urban subaru (and 4wd) myth #27. You have two of these (three if you have a manual) http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm (hey they updated it) The link also explains what happens on ice. Manual 4wd is also only 2WD, one per axle if you are in a bad situation. Exceptions are lockers and limited slip differntials) I'm sort of drained here so maybe someone will explain it better, but treating all 4 wheels equally makes for the best handling and saftey. Also realize that AWD (true awd) is used in all conditions to maintain balance in the car. Rain is one condition where raods are slick but AWD is vastly better then 2wd. nipper

Urban subaru legend # 237 The FWD fuse will give better gas mileage. No. You still have to move two whells, bearings, axles, 1 differential, 2 driveshafts (halves) and a center bearing weather or not the fuse is in. Ive been thinking about this, and even though you may not have RWD at slow speed, you may have it at higher speed, since the pressure is also varied to the clutches as long as the duration. How to make it last longer (note beer will last longer if you dont open the fridge door), regular automatic fluid changes and make sure tires match and are within spec. ALso you can just park the car but ...... nipper

heheh you know thats one thing i could never do .... nipper

Honestly, its only 15% of the Outbacks with bad HG, and that issue is becoming less and less as the time go by. Make sure the tires match and are of equal age. Check the trannyu fluid on an automatic for color. Make sure there is no fuse in the FWD fuse holder (if its an auto). Drive the car in a tight circle and make sure it goes around smoothly. Also a goo d time to listen for CV joint noise. nipper

Wont be the rack, thats always the last thing to suspect. Jack up the car and turn the wheels to lock, then spin them by hand to make sure they rotate freely. After that then look at rotors calipers. nipper

Actually the way around that is to gently apply the brakes while you accelerate gently. This transfers some power to the wheel with the traction. nipper

http://www.carquest.com/common/downloads/partsTechClutchTC2519.pdf That explains it for honda. I was not aware that subaru had stepped flywheels http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf100372.htm explains why some people have a low clutch pedal after a clutch job. It's never been mentioned here before if subarus have stepped flywheels. if they do I wonder if having the clutch replaced and clutch chatter are directly connected. Anyone? nipper I should have explained it better. A Stepped Flywheel there is a pocket for the clutch disc to sit in. nipper

nope. AWD is used all the time by the computer weather you know it or not. nope to the second also Thats like saying gee my car is slipping in third gear, so if i just in drive 2. If your going to do the third point, why even bother owning a subaru. Nothing lasts forever, period. If the AWD lasted over 100,00 miles or 7 years, i dont see what the problem is. Things wear out, cars wear out. If your fridge motor burns out, do you stop opening the door in the next one:rolleyes: Everything wil lats longer if you never turn it on, but then what is the joy in having it? Also how does one intend upon shutting off the AWD. The fuse is for emergencies, or when the TB is so bad you have no choice. You leave it on you will burn up the Duty C solenoid. Also i want to watch you pull the fuse when its raining outside nipper

So who wants to talk politcs or religon (and you thought i was kidding) nipper

see previous comments on axle quality. The boot, it depends upon if it is leaking or cracked. If you dont have the money to fix it now, let it go. If you do they can either replace the boot with a split boot, or replace the axle. It really depends upon the condition of the boot. nipper

Start by looking at the back of the fuse panel and left kick panel. Look for something that looks exactly the same. There wont be too many of them. Pull is ouy, tunr on your signals, they should not work with flasher out. nipper

Well if you buy a 1.00 oil filter you get what you deserve. I'm sorry but i dont even consider them filters. I dont kknow where you came up with that assumption. And if anyone here is using a 1.00 oil filter they need a kick in the rump. http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq_filter_change_6months.aspx http://theserviceadvisor.com/oil.htm http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm (ok so every 6000 miles, but no way would i let a filter go 10,000 miles or more, its foolish compared to the cost of an engine) From Mobil 1 web site http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Oils_FAQs.aspx To achieve the best peace of mind related to engine protection, many vehicle owners change their engine oils every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Is this practice rendered meaningless with the advent of the Mobil high-endurance oils? Consumers should follow the maintenance practice that is best for them, and that meets their car manufacturers’ warranty. They can have peace of mind knowing the guaranteed performance and protection intervals of the Mobil line of high-endurance oils. Mobil Clean 5000, Mobil Clean High Mileage, Mobil Clean 7500, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance protect critical engine parts from lubricant-related failure for 5,000/7,500/15,000 miles -- guaranteed. (Updated March 2006) and http://www.dynoperformance.com/article_details.php?article_id=16 In fact the last one evenstates that by chainging the filter often the synthetic oil can last much longer nipper and a PS http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/eng99/eng99488.htm Notice how they are saying "drain interval" as opposed to "change interval, i just caugh that on the valvoline site. Don't get the two confused. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=19

I havent seen this posted in a while http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/index.php? but a good resource. It seems to refer more to 2003 plus and does cover older, but since these are giant lego sets on wheels, i found alot of information does apply to pre 2003. nipper

Never sure where a 1991 goes as we have had them on the new gen forum too. But this guys been hurting for info i figured il'd have him post there as well. nipper

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26063#post26063 does that help for the heated seats? nipper

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1270123,parttype,10139,partGroup,18 http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?EFL8.html got that off an autoparts web site nipper

It was there but he was getting no help there either, he posted here under my advice.... nipper

EUREKA! I figured it out, it is so simple. Do you have a good relationship with a neighbor or the car that parks next to you? The beuty of a remote starter is that you dont need the key to start the car, but also the car shuts itself off in 15 minutes. What you can do is get a remote starter, and ask the neighbor when they go to work to start your car with the remote. !% minutes a day worsk out to 5 hrs of running time a month, which should be 1/4 tank of gas. You will need to get oil changes at every 3 months or so, but this way your battery stays charged, your neighbor can feel good for helping you out, and all it takes is thier holding a button for a few seconds a few times a week. nipper

And we have already ruled out low blinker fluid and winter vs summer vs synthetic blinker fluid. Can someone help him out please Also you may want to look on ebay for a repair manual. nipper

Ask on the new generation board which deals with 1991 and newer subarus. nipper

Go to the dealer and ask at the parts counter, they should be able to show you. nipper

Well there is the ever popular synthetic vs mineral oil blinker fluid debates..... One thing people forget about synthetics (which doesnt apply to this board but as a refernce) is that oil filters still need to be changed at the recomended intervals, as dirt is dirt. Also if a mfg of a new car doesnt specify a differnt synthetic oil interval (if the car did not have syn in it new) then you still have to change it at the mfg interval to keep any warrenty in effect. Even the Syn Oil Mfg state oil filters still need to be changed at the mfg regular interval. I think cost over the cars lifetime is the same either way. Syn is probably best for extreem conditions, but everyone else seems to make no differnce either way. nipper

Wow, that must be one HOT topic!!! hehehe its been quite "colorful" in the new gen forums. nipper

SInce this rarely happens i am guessing its just operator error. The car starts cold, so the puter gives the car extra fuel to start and warm up. The car is moved 20 feet then shut off. There is still extra fuel in the cylinders. Now the car is restarted again and gets extra fuel again by the ECU. Nothing in the engine has had a chance to warm up, and this can even make it worse (condensation). You end up with a flooded condition. The car should run at least a minute to get the cylinders warmed up. If it happens again i would look at the temp sesnor, but only if it happens repeatedly. nipper

Thats such and odd viscosity, I would be afraid to use it. High Mileage oils usually have something in them to expand seals and quiet lifters. I avoid them like the plague. I have had many cars have high mileage and work just fine on what they were runing from day one, thats good enough for me. nipper