nipper

In all honesty i really dont see the advntage to synthetic. People forget that synthetis oil still has a filter that needs to be changed at mfg required intervals. If you do the math over the lifetime of the car, dino oil is cheaper then over the lifetime of the car, and its been doing well for almost a 100 years. We can sit here and do the discussions and arguments all you want. Unless you have extreem driving conditions or weather, stick with whatever you feel comfortable with. if you dont do your own oil changes, its hard to find someone to just change a filter. nipper

Actually one of the highest stress times are shutting the car off. You dont think granny ever reved it to 5000 RPM and dropped the clutch hehehehehe nipper

Soap? hehehehehe nipper

I've always had a dirt driveway to work on. I use a padded plastic mat to lie on. Not only is it comfy, but its a great thermal barrier. Another trick is to lay down a tarp. if you drop anything you can find it on a blue tarp alot easier then a driveway that loves to eat small parts. nipper

you know there is a button on the door that allows you to do this.... or are we all getting so lazy that we cant lock our own doors (as i press my remote starter button). nipper

ah ok now i know what it is. Have an autozone read the codes and tell us what they are so we can tell you if its a valid code or not. nipper

excpet every time you change from one type to the other, the change takes the dirt with it, hence the short term leaks if its from a gasket. nipper

if it gets really annoying in rolling hills below 70mph ill drive in D3 untill im out of them. That seems to avoid the kamakazi downshift. nipper

Look at it this way. If you need a new cat, odds are you should replace the front o2 sensor anyway. Since the front sensor is cheaper then the cat, replace it with a GENUINE SUBARU O2 sensor and see what happens. The radiator should have been cleaned out when they did the HG for that price, shame on them if they didnt do it. If you have no complaints about it running hot dont worry about that. All subarus it seems have that smell to some degree. The brand new outback i rented had it also, and the service writer said they couldnt find it. What the heck is a backpressure transducer valve. nipper

See, now i had the 2006 for 10 days, and i prefered my 1997 OBW ltd. I thougth the awd operated more seamlessly (yes i took them both off road), and mine felt bigger on the inside. nipper

its not a myth, your just not inderstanding it. Going from Dyno to synthetic may make the gaskets leak for a very short period of time, but it usually goes away. Seals on the other hand, it just means that they are going to leak sooner, but were going to anyway. Synthetic oil has a smaller molcule and will find place to travel, but as dirt get in these places, the leak will stop. On the other hand, switching from synthetic to dino oil may cause leaks. Now if you switch to or from synthetic and the car leaks, it means it was going to leak eventually anyway. Switching back its not uncomon to have leaks, but then again it just means you were going to have them anyway. Now the question is do you want to leak 1.50 a qt oil or 5.00 a qt oil. nipper

The cruise control is all f*****d up as far as im concerned. There are times when a gentle squeeze of the throttle is enough, yet subaru chose a program that floors the car instead. This in large part had something to do with mine throwing a rod Now when i use the cruise on rolling hills, i use my foot to squeeze the throttle over the hill to avoid that forced massive downshift. nipper

a PS TC LU only makes a 150 RPM difference in the tach. nipper

Change fluids first. If you have no TB then dont use it. You dont have posi type diifs, which is what the fluid is for. Even if you had a LSD in the rear, its a sealed unit with its own fluid (the LSD part), and the rest of the dif takes regular oil. It has no benefit to you. nipper

Early GM LU trannies were a mess. At first they didnt even have a way of turning them off, which made the car a dog. Early failure was common, and the fix is what you described (dad had an olds and we had to do that too). Shift points are complicated. You rally need to see the HP/Torque curves to get a feel for when the trannnies shift and why. I just did a drive and payed attention to the cars shifting. Above 60mph (2500 rpm i think) Press the gas, the rpms and MPH increased at the same time. Below 2500 RPM (60) the car would downshift out of 4th into 3rd. It seems like below 2500 RPM your out of the power band of the car, so you could end up lugging the car staying in a higher gear. What you are blaming the LU TC for is, not the converters fault, but more a factor of the cars power band. nipper

Its a common and oh-so-human mistake. I've done it myself. nipper

The sooby has an honest 4 speed transmission with a lock up torque converter. Putting it in drive three, you are stepping down a gear, not disconnecting the LU TC. (but it does unlock for the shift). Overriding the TCU for LU TC can cause more harm then good. You can be lugging the engine (i'm sure there is some logic to it that im not privey too). Also in actuality the engine give you faster throttle response and faster incre4ase in speed when it unlocks, to let the torque converter (which multiples torque at amost 3 to 1) do its job. A direct mechanical hook up may take a little more time for the engine to build revs. Go read up on how a TC works. If you want to feel it work, accelrtae moderatly and dont read the tach. Let your ears do the work. You will hear what sounds like a 1-1.5-2-2.5-3-3,5 shift That .5 is actually the TC unlocking to allow for the shift. It almost feels like a drop off in power (it is a bit) but it works well. This is part of the reason why transmissions are lasting longer, as they are being enginered to reduce shift shock instead of absorbing it. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm Also realize nothing in the drive train acts in a bubble. Everything interacts, so what you may think is actually an improvement can hurt something else (and murphies law at three times the cost). nipper

I can read, but since they screwed up i would take it back. Now if you can do math, 2 hours of driving costing you 30.00 in gas means there is something majorly wrong with the car. Thats almost a tank of gas in 2 hours. It would also cost them 100 bucks of shop time to fix a return, and the mechanic that screwed it up would have to fix it (normally). the time comes off his books. See i can read and do math. Do whatever you want, have fun and good luck. nipper

Damn, then she may hold the record. If i was you then i would change the following Tming belt Idlers Cam Seals Main Seal new oil pump water pump then you should be good for at least 100,000 miles on the hard parts. nipper

If they left the harness off after working on it, it doesnt matter if its under warrenty. They screwed up. Take it back and stay with the car as they fix it. nipper

Whatever became of this? nipper

Are you having Torque bind issues? if you are change the tranny fluid first before doing this. The friction modifier is a last ditch effort to save a major repair, not the first line of defense. nipper

that bolt may seal up against a oil galley or a water galley, hence why its a differnt part number. That red isnt thread lock, but thread sealant. nipper

i hope its had timing belts and a water pump done too, otherwise do it asap. nipper

fakeout kits are bad in so many ways. o2 sensor is the heart of the fuel injection system. If it is not operating correctly you can suffer poor performance, poor mileage, and worse.. burn up a cat converter. nipper