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Everything posted by nipper
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UNLOCK!!!!!!!!!!! :confused: You have no idea how it works at all. If anything you want it to lock to have a direct mechanical connection upon acceleration. The only time it unlocks is to shift, and thats how it operates normally. Unlock is slippage and loss of mechanical power transmission. That little button on other cars was to disable the overdirve or 4th gear. it did NOT disable the lockup torque converter (at least since about 1980's) nipper
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Before you start fiddling with the transmission you need to read up on the basics, and how the AWD works. A torque converter is a hydraulic coupling unit. Picture two fans face to face one powered one not. The powered fan will move the unpowered one. Simply put a torque converter does this same thing. Locking them up means no lag no slippage. The lockup metohd is a hudraulic piston pushing the TC up against the "housing" (forget what subaru calls it) to make the mechanical connection. Now trying to manually control it will shorten the trannies life, espeically if you are clueless about transmissions. The TC locks up in all gears, being controlled by the TCU. The TC unlocks to avoid shift shock. Shift shock is not only a factor of passenger comfort, but one of the reasons trannies last so long now. This is sometimes done in conjusction with changing the spark parameters in the engine. For the billionth time, the duty c solenoid is part of the equation. There is a spool valve inside the tranny that works along with the duty c solenoid. A majortiy of times when this "wire cutting" is dont by someone with no knowledge of how the tranny works, the AWD unit fails within a year or less. The clucthes in the AWD unit are designed to pulse on and off. They also are made to allow for some slippage for turns. Defeating either one of these without knowing what you are doing is just transmission suicide. Thats a 1000.00 repair. I have no idea why you would want to fiddle with either one since they work fine. iIn almost all conditions the TCU and ECU handle these parimeters very well. I can understand TC LU control for racing. I can understand AWD control for extreem driving conditions. nipper
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Now What??
nipper replied to 2000outback's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
It really depends upon the state you live in, if it pops on during an emissions inspection you will fail. Also the check engine light being on may hide another fault triggering the light. nipper -
Now What??
nipper replied to 2000outback's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Yes it does. As its been stated here many times, non OE can be lazy in response giving a trouble code as you are seeing. nipper -
Subaru Thermostat Assembly Description The Subaru thermostat can be located on the top of the engine, in the outlet going to the radiator and some may be mounted towards the bottom of the engine near the radiator hose inlet to the engine. Cooling system is rated in degrees that reflect the typical cooling system temperature maintained by the thermostat. You can purchase Subaru thermostats in varying degrees based on the environment or the type of driving you are doing. The Subaru thermostat is the engine cooling systems temperature control. When the Subaru engine is cold, the thermostat stays closed and keeps coolant from flowing thru the radiator. This enables the Subaru engine to warm very quickly. As the Subaru coolant increases in temperature the paraffin element causes the valve in the thermostat to open slightly, allowing some of the coolant to flow thru the Subaru radiator. As the Subaru engine coolant continues to increase, the thermostat opens more in relation to the heat of the coolant. Under normal operating conditions with a fully warmed engine, the thermostat will be completely open. The Subaru thermostat is a very critical part of the cooling system that can cause many symptoms and problems. An open thermostat can result in low heater output, overheating and poor fuel economy. A thermostat that does not open or open all the way can cause knocking or pinging when accelerating and overheating. A faulty thermostat can even cause your car to fail an emissions test. Drivewire carries all the OE; genuine top brands of thermostats for your car at discount prices. Dear Tom and Ray: I need some help. My roommate and I have a serious bet going on. He thinks he knows everything about cars, and I DO know everything about cars (just kidding). He says that the cooling system runs water from the engine to the lower radiator hose, then up through the radiator and out the top radiator hose. I say it's the other way around; that the water runs into the radiator at the top, and out the bottom. We're talking about good old American V8s here, not a little Subaru. What's the answer? If he's wrong, he has to wash my truck once a week for a year. -- Tim Ray: We're enclosing a good set of rubber gloves for your roommate, Tim, because he's going to have some serious dishpan hands. Tom: For traditional, old, American cars, you're right, Tim. For ages and ages, the hot coolant came out of the top of the engine, through the open thermostat, down through the radiator, and then out the bottom of the radiator where the cooled water went back into the bottom of the engine. Ray: But now, on a lot of cars, the flow HAS been reversed. The hot coolant comes in the bottom of the radiator, gets pumped to the top, and then goes back into the top of the engine. And for a very good reason. Tom: Engineers realized that the top of the engine really needs the most cooling. That's where the cylinder head is, and, more important, where the head gasket is. So they turned the flow around, so that the coolest water would come out the top of the radiator and flow right into the cylinder head where it's most needed. And since they've done this, the number of blown head gaskets has decreased dramatically. Ray: So if you want to cut your roommate a little slack, you might mention that if you were talking about modern cars, you'd both be right. But why do I suspect you're going to wait about 11 months before bringing this up, Tim? interesting nipper
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Now What??
nipper replied to 2000outback's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
So its not OE ? nipper -
Water pumps will last at the very least the interval of the timing belt change. The waterpumps arent all that pricey, considering they are a bit more complicated to make then waterpumps of old. The labor for the waterpump is the same as a timing belt (hence whay you do them at the same time). The water pump operates off the timing belt. nipper
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Now What??
nipper replied to 2000outback's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Where did You get the replacement sensor from? nipper -
It sounds like a bad CV joint. The driveshaft wont give feedback through the steering wheel. Put the clip back in and see if it goes away (that can be causing it). If not there have been problems with cheap axles, and dont get another from the same source if you can avoid it. Find out who they buy from so you know not to use them again. nipper