nipper

E85 will never come into its own. The only reason they are making the E85 cars is they get a tax brake. Now propane or LG is much simpler to pull off. nipper

One morning in south dakota there was a rod knock. Then i drove from there to portland, seattle, all over un developed roads, and some times at triple digits. Coming out of San Fran, going up donner pass i stopped for gas. I was amazed how nice the car was running. i did smell a little more oil then usual, but thought that was the seperator plate. Continued going up the pass, 100 miles west of reno, the cruise control floored the car. That lasted about 2 seconds. The car downshifted, then there was lots and lots and lots of smoke. Poped the hood and oil all over. Car started, gushed oil, but got me off the road. Blu was dead Long live Blu (factory rebuilt hybrid block) nipper

ah so now we get to the nut of things. Its not worth it. First off you need to have the fuel system taken out, cleaned, and reinstalled (E85 is a powerful solvent). Secondly you need to re calibrate the computer (not too sure on the electronic feedback carbs). Next anything rubber that even has a slight chance of seeing fuel vapors need to replace. Finally, it actually costs MORE to run e85, as you need 1/3 more of it to get the same range as gasoline. Even the e85 sites say its doable but not feasable. Oddly its real easy if you have a pre 1973 car to convert. nipper

http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/SouthAmerica/EngineSolutions/Products/PistonRings/SealedPowerPistonRings/Moly-Chrome/ The been doing chrome piston rings ofr years. thats why it takes a about 8,000 miles for the newer soobies (gen I and II) to break in. nipper

thats odd... I only flush every 100,000 miles. Biggest reason for sticking is rusted sliders (some mfgs even state never) Water in the barke fluid will not cause rust, and it doesnt settle at the lowest point either. Water in the brake fluid will cause brake fade. The breaks are a sealed system. To make rust you need to have air plus water plus something that would rust. Sounds like you had another issue that caused that, like a leaking caliper or craocked dust boot. nipper

i thnk you may actually have more traction on ice then wet grass ... thats how bad wet grass is. nipper

Theere is no general reader for OBDI cars, just specific readers. You do have some limited diagnostics ability by connecting the diagnostic connectors togehter and going through a specifc procedure (ill look later if you need it). nipper

Good rule of thumb is when you replace the clutch, replace the clutch cable too if so equiped. It may squuek for some time, but when it snaps, well, ive done it, but its a *************** driving a car that needs a clutch with no clutch. nipper

Your crazy. These engines happily go to 200-300,000 miles in the stock methods. Anodizing cant withstand the 15,000 psi pressure of combustion and equally high temperitures. ALso anodized coatings are a final step. They cant be machined, and have a real thickness to them. If there was a plus to it as far as pistons someone would have done it. Anodizing is done to protect parts from the elements at atmospheric pressure or less. Its not desighned nor meant to protect under pressure. Whats worse is when it does fail, it flakes off. ALso anodized surfaces must expand and contract at the same rate, otherwise the srface will fail. ANodized parts tend to change the thermal cahrecteristics of what ever it is bonded too. nipper

How old is your clutch cable? When does it squeek sepcifically. How old is the clutch nipper

This is worst case scenario. I had the same problem on my 1988 GL. Sadly it was cancer. The frame rail was rotted out so the frame was flexing and tearing boots. Another problem i had was the shop (before this diagnoses) was installing the wrong axle repeatedly. i finally went to subaru and had them replace it, not only did it fix the problem, but they were 50.00 cheaper. nipper

a little help here, like model and mileage. What your hearing is the pas wear indicator. They squeel when driving and go away when you break. The fact that your hearting one and not both may mean you have a sticking caliper. now for the yelling ITS THE BREAKS DONT SECOND GUESS. If you wait for them, to go metal to metal, that can instanly double the cost of a break job. nipper

hrmmm Injectors may shut down with a closed throttle, thats easy enogh to check with a rigged test light. Now i dont know how you are wired in, but you are not OBII, your obdI, which means there are diagnostic connectors you need to hook up to get the codes. Those are usually under the dash near the gas pedal, but in your case, they aint there. How old is the 02 sensor? Another possability is the knock sensor and ignition timming. nipper

sheesh i just wanted the picture, not the exact part nipper

what cookie said. nipper

Techinically older subarus were part time 4wd (god i miss that second little stick). New subarus are fulltime AWD, which is the same thing as 4wd. There are many many vehicals Read non trucks and truck wannabes) on the road with all sorts of AWD systems. Subaru is the best, second only to audi. Some of them arent worth the extra cost. I've hit checkpoints, and all you usually have to do is tell them its a subaru and they let you on your way. If you live in an area where this is a constant threat, then i would suggest 4 winter tires in addition. nipper

http://www.racepages.com/parts/heater_core/subaru.html like that one nipper

except for those of us who have emission inspections. Black tape isnt a good idea, as it can hide other important reasons the check engine light comes ons. ALso cats do go bad, just no where near as often as they used too nipper

oops my mistake, was thinking the wrong thing, you are correct. Basically it wouldnt be a bad idea to remove the blower motor and see how much dirt is in the air box. Every little thing helps. nipper

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html (and stop following me) nipper

Lets use some common sense. You go with cheap parts the car falls apart in a few months, where are you going to find another 500.00 car. Go for more expensive parts (and we arent talking all the much money) car lasts much longer. Getting an unknown engine for 500-700,00 when the one you have is fine is dumb. And guess whats the first thing you do on the repelacement engine? you replace the water pump cam seals idlers timing belt and reseal the oil pump. Come on people, think about this. nipper

Yes and no. Heater cores are like radiators in operation, but not in design. Hetaer cores have really big tubes in comparison ot the very small radiator channels.. nipper

I found this pic on my cell phone. Sorry its blurry, but what you see sticking out of the block is the endcap of the #2 piston connecting rod. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=13560&cat=935 nipper

frt or rear. does it change with road speed or engine rpm. does it change turning left or right. nipper

if you watch ebay for the module you should be able to get it. nipper