nipper

http://uk.cars.yahoo.com/car-reviews/car-and-driving/subaru-forester-range-1003544.html As far as turbocharged petrol Forester models are concerned (theres still no diesel), Subaru have dumped the 2.0 XT model but uprated its more recently introduced 2.5-litre XT counterpart, giving it an extra 19 PS, raising power to 230 PS and reducing the 0-60 mph time to 5.7 seconds for the manual. no such thing nipper

Thats what i would bet too. WHen we tow here, we tend to tow farther and have steeper climbs on average. DOnt kid yourself, towing regularly does put a lot of stress on a vehical, and in general shortens the engines life. We hold on to our cars much longer, and put a lot more miles on them then the Brits, or for that matter most of europe. Lowering the numbers means a longer lasting vehical. nipper

no no no no no. Tranny temp light gives out tranny trouble codes.Check Engine Light gives out engine codes. One doe not give out the others codes. What you have is NOT a tranny issue, its a drivability issue where something is way out of wack and the goes to limp mode. the TPS is not one of those thatwill do that. WHat code are you getting from the trannt light. I have a feeling what your doin g has no root in reality when it comes into your probelm. Lest start over MOdesl Engine Year Milleage ANy major work done of latee Any idiot lights on Whats your gas mileage. WHat is THE CODE you are getting in raw blinks, and let us interperit it. nipper

there are things i wont reapeat that is one of them. Why not go with a used engine?

i did something i suggest to no one, i let the dealer rebuild mine, and had more parts replaced then i normally would as i dont want to open the hood for 105K except for fluid changes. nipper

Im going to assume it did, but in all honesty i never really heard it except that once. Blew a hole right through the block. I've seen pics of other subarus with this condition, and the all seem to go the same place., right at the temp sensor. nipper

This is how mine went: One morning on my x'rss country trip, in Iowa started the car one morning, heard the knock but it went away. Dorve the car to portland/seattle/San Fran (no noise i could hear). In fact i thought the car was running really well at the last fill up. Started climbing the pass out of sacramneto, got about 30 miles up, the car downshifted, at about 4800 rpm it was all over. One big bang, and lots of smoke. SInce you have noise, loud noise, you are pretty far along. Dont drive it hard, make sure AAA is paid up. nipper

Can we have the symptons please nipper

the case has to be split to get to the connecting rods, so no you cant replace just one. But yup you have a bad rod bearing, and they so LOVE gpoing through the side of the block at the most inoportune moment. nipper

ive got 10,000 miles on them. i have the H (though the car has seen triple digits). I think they are fine, work very well with the AWD, are good in snow. nipper

Pitch or volume. Frequency and pitch is related to engine RPM. nipper

Pull off the sparkplug wire and see if it changes. If it doesnt change its not a rod knock. If it is a rod knock, not much can be done besides a rebuild/replace. nipper

I have the TA's and am very happy with them. nipper

This is the beginings of a blown HG (well technically al.ready blown). Sometimes it will do it sometimes it wont. You need a hydrocarbon test, and oyu can replace the radiator cap, but any other things that ouwld cause overheating would do it in a pattern. nipper

Sudden occurance is a mechanical failure, as a slave or master cylinder will be better when cold, worse when hot, or some other weirdness. You may have llost a clip that retains the throw out bearing, so its new clutch time. nipper

:confused: The tach signal either comes from the ecu or the ignitor, i don't remeber which. nipper

There is not timing belt, its a timing chain. Therefor you only have the main seal to worry about, and the timing pan gasket. Turbos always have shorter lives then n/a engine. The turbo may be simple, but when it goes, it costs big bucks. A N/A piston engine, especially a subaru should pile on miles like any other subaru engine. Again its an oppsed piston engine, so a lot of forces cancel out. The mmore moving parts is just a silly argument, if that was true, no one would by anything. NOrmally turbo engines have a shorter life then their n/a counterparts, but i dont think thats true for subarus. nipper

Are the front wheels over tightened? that can cause warped rotors. What kind of condition is your tires in. Is it your abs kicking in too soon? Are the calipers tight and not frozen? nipper

i wouldnt hot wire them. If i rember correctly the rheostate goes to a light controller. The controller is what controls the lights (i may be wrong). nipper

Check the center universal joints and carry bearing under the car. These are typical symptons of these parts being worn. nipper

Actually the resistance to flow is what causes the pressure, the pump is just the medium to move the oil. The Main and connecting rod bearings play a biigger part in oil pressure then the pump does, unless the pump clearances are bad or your leaking al over the ground. If the bearings have too big a clearance, you will have low or no oil pressure. Did you reseal the pump during the TB change. You cantake the pressure off of any galley plug. Quick and dirty check would be a mechanical gauge threaded ito the oil pressure switch. I dont ever recall anyone having a problem with the pump reseating itself. It is possible that the pump is tired if the car has over 150,000 miles, but usually i tell people to replace the pump on the 2.2 and 2.5 as they get near 200,000 miles for insurance. Putting the gauge on almost any oil galley will give you the same pressure as at the pump, the only difference wil be a slight lag for the gauge to presurize. What brand of filter are you using? nipper nipper

only 6cylinder problem has been the timing chain tensioner. Since I hvaent heard about it lately, i think the replacement part may have fixed it. They have been failing under 30K. nipper

Give it a month, the slipping will return. You reset the computer, so the car went back to default values. This is harder shift (you may not notice). If it was slipping as bad as you say, then significant damage has been done. Pickup the trannyy, your going to need it. nipper

Under the right (or wrong) circumstances, you can bend vavles on a non interfernce engine. It jsut depends upon the circumstances inside the engine at the time the timing belt decide to let lose. Also it doesnt take much to of a bend to stick a valve open. nipper

Let me take a few gueses before we hijack the thread. If there is no compression the starter motor will spin really fast, and sound completly differnt. So if he has poor sealing/beant valves or a broken timing belt it will sound differnt. Now if anyone here has ever head a flywheel with borken chewed up teeth, it really is unmistakable. The grinding of the gear or the spinning of an unloaded starter is very unique. If the gear is chewed up and barely making contatc, sometimes the vibratcion of the starter will be enough to slightly turn the flywheel to a good tooth. The tooth isnt broken per se, just badly worn. A visual inspection can be done , but its a tooth by tooth operation. The noise itself is all one needs to hear. It doesnt matter if its a bad starter drive or solenoid, if its bad ehough to grind, then the teeth are damaged. You can replace the starter and see if that helps. Sometimes thats enough. What can cause this? A hairline crack in the flywheel, more likely a bad starter drive. The Spring in the drive can be broken or weak, and allow the drive to creep onto the flywheel, or retract very late. You wont here this happen most of the time, and even when you can, it is usually associated with an old car noise. The over running clutch in the drive can be bad, the solenoid can be sticking, the starter motor bushings can be worn. No matter what the condition of the flywheel, the starter wilhave to be replaced. Its very rare on suabaru that this just happens, more common on GM and Fords where it may not be the starters fault, and even then rare on a fwd car. nipper