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Everything posted by nipper
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take a hose with the car running and wet the engine compartment in sections. Once you get it narrowed down to a section, take a spray bottle of water or carb cleaner and spray hoses and anything that looks like a gasket area. The engine will stumble when it sucks in either. Also look for a loose vacume line first, it ma be obvios. Another thing to check is the snorkle hose, if that is loose or the air cleaner cover is loose, it will make a wind noise too. nipper
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hahah bunji cord, you people funny... and down right scary. year and mileage on the car, which engine please. A bunji cord, aside from silly, is not going to fix it.. From a Mazda repair site, but its the standard explination and they say it better then me. A synchronizer is defiantly the culprit. The synchronizer is a bronze helitical cut gear that is positioned in front of a drive gear. Every gear except reverse has one and its primary purpose is to line up the teeth of the gear you are in with the next gear up or down. The gears are cut at an angle so when they are aligned at different speeds of rotation they will be able to mesh. This is where the term double clutching comes from. When a car with no synchronizers is driven "or one with broken ones" it will grind going into gears if you try to shift it in between gears without matching the speed of the gear you are trying to go into with the one you are shifting out of. Double clutching is when you push the clutch in once, pop the car out of its present gear, then release the clutch, which allows the transmission to match speed on all the components in the transmission, and then clutch again to engage the new gear. Now, the second function of the synchronizer is to keep the car in its selected gear. Because the gears are helitical "teeth cut at an angle" the direction the angle faces can have a dramatic effect on how the gear reacts. The gear is designed to act in a way that when you engage it the rotation of the gear and the direction of the teeth force it to disengage. If it were the other way around the disengagement of gears would be next to impossible at any speed. This is where the second function of the synchronizer comes into play. It prevents the gear from backing out of gear unless the clutch is engaged and there is no load on that gear. So, your synchronizer is internally worn and is no longer tight enough to prevent the gear from slipping out at or above a certain load or RPM
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well i got them on the recomendation of here, and no one said they were crap. Also they have been in my car a year and doing fine, and i am happy with them. ALso i said i am them lower to keep from blinding people. I just did a 9800 mile trip with them, i know what i like, and i am going to keep them that way. nipper nipper
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I have driving lights, but i have them aimed low. And i can tell you that i only once got flashed by oncoming trucks, when one of the beams loosened up and pointed too high. Otherwise i've gotten flashed with the higbeams on, but sometimes when lots of deer around, and no possability to slow down, sometimes no choice (keeping in mind these were roads seperated by a HUGE median, or gully, or canyon sometimes) Also I prefered mine a hair lower then center. It worked fine for me at night at 70mph. The hellas were probably suppliments to normal high beams, but i have silverstars in my car, which greatly improved things. I was also very impressed with the light thrown to the sides. Hella calls them driving lights, i would call them mid beams, especially when matched against other cars modern headlamps. http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServices/Performance_Lighting/FF_Series/FF200/FF200.jsp One odd thing. When i ordered them from Hella, i couldnt tell if i got the fog or the driving, i sent them an email, they said they only come in driving lights. nipper
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I put FF200's on my car, and it made all the difference. As long as they are aimed properly, they dont annoy oncoming traffic, but you have to kil them to pass anyone, as they throw alot of light to the sides as well as forward. I am SO glad I had them on my trip, otherwise i never would have seen the deer/moose/bears on the side of the road. nipper
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2007 Baja
nipper replied to Bo13mwz's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Oddly consumer reports rated the Baja as best small pickup truck. I wouldnt be surprised if that happened, There are many 06's on lots not selling, so why build an 07. nipper -
ENOUGH WITH THE HEADGASKETS! and your wrong, as they get older the HG's are being replaced (10-15% of the cars affected by it). Talk about beating a The reason why i would walk away from it is the Clutch pack (no transfer case). First off just them calling it by the wrong name is a bad sign. Secondly its a 800-1000 repair. Personally i dont think thats a bad price (check blue book to see what ahealthy one goes for). Check the tires to make sure thay all match. WHich shop says they can do it for 1200, that sounds low. Also get a compression or cylinder output test done on it to check it out. DO the math, see what one of those in your area go for in good condition, as oppsed to what you are paying for it plus repairs. BTW I bought mine with 180,000 miles on it, engine blew at 196,000 due to previous owner weird oil change intervals (once a year weather it needed it or not). I have 1997 OBW ltd and love it. I loved it so much I put an engine in it without thinking twice. nipper
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Yes i was wondering about the second one too. It takes more energy to overcome inertia starting from rest then something already in motion. The biggest fuel consumers are, starting from a dead stop, and wind drag. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question477.htm The car does have 100 times more drag, but that drag is compared to 0 when standing still. So the multiple may sound impressive, at low speed it really is not. nipper
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i don't know how things work in Adanac, but if it was here in the USA i would advise a-Write the state departemtn of DMV b-Write the BBB c-Write the state attorney General d-Write any local consumer protection boards e- small claims court (have another mechanic inspect it first to get things in writing) nipper