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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. A few issues, first off is that if i remeber correctly subaru flywheels dont like being resurfaced, as they are already pretty thin. Secondly look at the TSB's on this issue. The other thing is the clutch slave/master cylinder. The fact the clutch play changes as the car warms up tells me there is an issue someplace in the hydraulic clutch. nipper
  2. Over filling can allow the oil to be affected by the rotation or the sweep of the crankshaft. This would let the oil get airated. The same way your heart cant pump air, neither can the oil pump. nipper
  3. the optimal fuel air ratio is the same for performance or economy http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio 14.7:1, thats why we have all this neat and fascinating computer equipment under the hood. You get the best performance and ecnomy from fule at this ratio. The rest relies on valve timing and other design factors. Since it has simple wiring, its not a chip, its just a more sophistacted way to fool the ECU, not unlike what you see on ebay, instead of you turning a knob, itdoes it automatically. nipper
  4. Forget additives, just flush the tranny. Additives just delay things. It sounds like to me its just gummed up. nipper
  5. I turn the rental in tomorrow and get ol blu back with a new engine. the rental, a 2006 OBW with 12,000 miles on it, has that ever sweet smell. Asked the service writer about it, he said he has had a few customers complain about it but could never find the cause. nipper
  6. Well thats one of the reasons, but water can erode an impeller, as it is abrasive, with dionized (labratory) water worse then deminerilized water. We sometimes assume that the waterpumps have been changed with the timing belt, but thats not always the case. nipper
  7. Ive been using an APC PNOTEAC75 for 4 weeks now that runs and charges my laptop. nipper
  8. start by replacing the bad VSS sensor. That is a good/bad item, no imbetween. Without either VSS operating, you wont have AWD, and the car may go into limp mode. What is supposed to happen is when one VSS fails, the other takes over and operates the spedo. Its possible you have 2 bad sensors (examine the wire harness) and your car can be in limp mode The ignition coil thing.... they may have hit it on the head, but if its been over 80K since a plug/wire replacement do that yourself. Also spray the oil with a water filled water bottle one evening with the car running and see if there are any sparks (cracked coil tower). What have you done if anything since the original thread.... nipper
  9. It can be done without removing the heads, buy using compressed air in the cylinder to keep the valves from falling in the cylinder. Now my question is, does it go away after the car warms up. i have always been concerned about opening an engine up for a little thing like this, as it tend to snow ball into a valve job or bigger. A Valve job can blow a high mileage set of rings, etc. Can you live with this? How much oil does it use? Do a wet/dry compression test first and get a feeling for the health of the engine. nipper
  10. everything looks fine. Revving doesnt really tell you anything, you really need to be under load. nipper
  11. There is a caus and effect chain, and the wheel bearings can cause weirdness in the brake pedal if they are really sloppy. If you still have the problem, test the brake booster (i may not have a net connection for a few days thats why i suggest it now). nipper
  12. A bad differential makes a ROAR like nothing else on the car will. It gets louder with speed, and is unmistakable. FIrst thing is to inspect your tires, check for cupping and broken belts. Next is to install the FWD fuse and see if it has any effect. CHeck your lubricant and fluid levels. nipper
  13. If its an add on harness, you could go to a junkyard and pull one out of a car..... nipper
  14. Another thing to realize is that boats have larger sumps then car, so leaving some oil behind (or any other non epa rated engine) isnt as critical. nipper
  15. actually too much antifreeze, you start lowering the boiling point, and the freeze point gets much lower (colder). ALso since it is less then an ideal system, 50/50 wil give you +/- 10% (60/40) since no one uses a measuring cup nipper
  16. Rack inspection is more of a sympton thing then an inspection. First you rule out the pump, fluid, and universal joint. The symptons you describe (worse when cold especially) are indicitive of the seals in the rack being tired. When the seals are cold, they shrink. The seals already leaking when warm, are leaking much more when cold. Once the fluid warms up it becomes a less of a problem. I think your rack is tired. http://www.car-stuff.com/subarusteeringrack.htm nipper
  17. i'm surprsied you can't find it. SUbaru being a small mfg tends to make one harness for one model. I'ld look at mine for you but its still in surgery. nipper
  18. yankees suck? now your just trying to get on my good side..mets rule.... nipper
  19. Out of curiosity, look around the front fog light locations, the harness should be there. Then all you need really is the OE fog light relay. nipper
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