nipper

hey 2.5L rule nipper

so if i remember correctly i win whats in the showcase? nipper

Scary Terms .. "hey watch this" "this wont hurt at all" I have this miracle additive" nipper

Knew you were being tooo helpful nipper

nipper

And here i was trying to play peace maker ... but your going to make him convert n/m to ft lbs, you bad.... nipper

i didnt even think of that at the low mileage .. nipper

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64699 have you two met ? nipper

Basically the answer is yes, but do a quick search to double check. nipper

manual when it comes to torque specs. 140 is 40-50% over spec, and thats huge. nipper

lets call it 100 ft/lbs across the board. i dont want to confuse him any more :cool: nipper

Haynes Manual (which information comes from the factory service manual) Crankshaft Pully Bolt 2.2L 70-80 Ft Lbs 2.5L 90-100 Ft Lbs With the loctite you will be fine. mipper

Ah yes the ol' pully holder thingy , otherwise known as a strap wrench. nipper

i guess 1400 nipper

Isn't a calibrated arm great? i have one of those too (its called many years of pulling a wrench) nipper

150 is too high, you can strip the threads in the crank, then you will be really in trouble. Go with the numbers we said here. With the Loctite (which i dont beleive in personally there) and the proper torque, you wont have a problem. Remeber that this may have to be removed again in the future, and you donw want to stretsh any threads. nipper

in my legacy i was shocked, it took me all of ten minutes to pull the instrument cluster out of the car, another 5 minutes to disassemble the cluster, 2 to re assemble and 15 to put back in (i forgot to plug in a harness). i would imagine the forester is the same thing. There are 5 harness that need to be unpluged and its out (4 obvious and one behind it). I know on my car there was screws for the trim bezel, then i think 4 screws for the cluster (dont remember). The plastic cover snaps off easily (these cars ARE giant leggos) then some screws in the back and the gauges come out. Be very careful, i found out the pin for the needle stop comes out easily, but also snaps in just as easily. Be aware of this nipper

there is a long list of what it could be. Since the car has high mileage and unknown history, we need to start off with the cheap things first, and do only one at a time. Since this is an emissions test, he can't really test it in his driveway. i would do all the cheap things first (checking sensors, cleaning, insepcting. replacing inexpensive parts). Fuel injecters, if they are leaking, can be had a scrap yard. Do an opil change, check to make sure the car reaches operating temperiture (thermostat) check the temp sensor for the computer. Borrow a code reader and see what the sensors are doing. Inspect the spark plugs, check the gaps, clean and regap if on a low budget. PCV and air filter of course. Thats the down side to this, mechanically you fail an inspection you fix it and see the results. Emissions you cant see the result without going back to an inspection station. You do what you can in layers, but only one at a time, incase you do something to make the car run worse. nipper

Reason i ask is that it is a hall effect sensor. Everytime a tooth passes the sensor it makes a pulse. That pulse is translated into a mechanical movement of the spedo. there have been alot of bad spedos in this year, and usually just cleaning the connetcions where the head slides into the assembly fixes it, but this is the first time iver heard of it holding 40mph. a bad sped sensor should throw a code. You may try to clean the head first (its free) then see if it works. After that then feel free to attack the sensor. The haynes manual says to use a AC meter that is analog and look for needle movement as the sneder is slowly rotated. i just dont want to see you spend money when you may be looking at the wrong end. nipper

the keyway looks good, how is the key? i had mine let go and do some damage. The previous "owner" had the timing belt changed, but the shop didnt torque the bolt properly. It started as an odd vibration i couldnt nail down. I had to fly to Anchorage for work, car sat in laguardia for 2 weeks. i started it up and all hell broke loose. i guess it didnt like being alone at the airport in winter. nipper

can the original poster do something to humor me? Bang on the cat with your hand and see if it rattles. If it rattles, it is dead. nipper

i cant tell from the pics, they are too distorted. the worst case scenario if you dont want to go through the pain of replacng it, is you may have to clean it up a bit with a file. PS a beam type torque wrench is juat as good as a digital or a snaping torque wrench. This is really one of the most important bolts on the car. You have no idea how lucky you are that the keyway did not get mangled in the crank. nipper

DO use a torquewrench and properly torque the bolt down (70-80 2.2 and 90-100 ft lbs 2.5). Also inspect the front main seal and see if it is leaking or needs replacement, just in case. Then praise the subaru Gods that your keyway survived. You may need a new key too. nipper

We generally recomend OE, since OE gets the design changes first, and your never sure if aftermarket has got the latest change. As much as i love felpro, go with OE. Also do an oil change, its cheap insurance. You never know how hot the oil got, and with a small pan, it doesnt hurt to change it. nipper nipper

was this an analog or digital meter? would be interesting to see if its got a heartbeat with an analog. nipper