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Everything posted by nipper
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ok i need to ask, how many miles do you drive a year and what do you have under the hood. I dont know how good the fuel is over there, but here in the U.S. we run a long long long time with facotory plugs. i am seeing mileage intervals of 30,000 miles or 60,000 miles with planum plugs on www.cars101.com. I personally drive the plugs till i need to replace them (a miss or something). I think subaru is way too conservative on thier plug mileage and can go much farther. A lot of cars go 100,000 miles before they need plugs. Some maint intervals can be ignored. nipper
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Subaru TSB's are written to limit thier exposure to lawsuits (look how they write them on piston slap and head gaskets). Go read the links, the debree clog the screens, and the transmission over heat, its thats simple. Also another theory is too smal a fluid port, but since a external aftermarket filter and an external oil cooler rectify the problem, i doubt that is the reason. Odd i have never had a rear wheel bearing on 6 differnet subarus (all well over 200k on them). On all the years i've been on the board i can count on one hand that legacy, imprezza rear wheel bearings go bad, but i lost count of all the foresters.The only subaru with that issue is the forester, not all subarus (don't paint with a wide brush). If you do a search here you will see that not only is it foresters with bad wheel bearings, but the fix is to use a legacy wheel bearing. Every peice of material i have read describes the SVX as a 2.5 L with two extra cylinders. The only differnce is the way the cams are driven, a combinitaion of a belt and gears. I dont make this stuff up. I have been looking for an SVX for two years. Everything is well documneted on the internet and the SVX board. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60991 from a week ago. There are very few posts on here about SVX, once again i suggest you investigate the other board. nipper
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Just go with OE plugs for subarus. Some cars will do better with upscale plugs, some do worse. Subarus are finickey and like the plugs that are recomended, i had a motorcycle that i put platnum plugs in and it hated them. Switched to the regular plugs that kawi recomended and the bike ran like a top. Remeber plug performance between brands, there is no true standard. There is a wide range of acceptable perfomance between plugs, this is what a champion vs a NGK can be the same heat range, but so differnt. One can be at the top of the heat range, one can be at the bottom, and hence have totally differnt performance. Stay within the recomended faimily of plugs. nipper
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this saves zero gas. the only way you save gas is by removing the drieshaft and rear differential, and even then it isnt even 1 mpg. Also these cars were deisgned to be AWD, not FWD with AWD added as an afterthought. Even with the awd disconnecetd, all the awd parts are still moving and being driven by the car. Driving with the dut c solenoid in the car all the time, your better off selling the car and buying something else then. The awd works all the time, and is quite noticible, especially in the rain, when it is deactivated. Eventually the solenoid will burn out, and the 200-800 repair will totally wipe out any gas savings, in fact you will never make that money back. nipper
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this is not a secret Just google SVX transmission failure. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Alcyone_SVX http://www.subarusvx.com/ http://www.drwtransmission.com/subaru_svx.htm "The torque converter clutch lining can flake and plug the transmission cooler in the radiator, resulting in a loss of proper lubrication flow" Subaru even has a tsb on the issue or three. These are all very well known issues on the car. You need to do some more research to know what your getting into. Also if i recall the windsheild costs 1300.00 to replace. Go check the board i listed, i don't make this stuff up. nipper
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http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ the weak spots are the wheel bearings and the transmission. The transmission lock up torque converter clutch material flaes off and clogs the cooler. Next thing you know your tranny is fried. There are several ways around this. Install a cooler and a filter, install a manual. or convert to a legacy automatic. The svx tranny has a clutch pack and a differnetial in the awd unit, where as the legacy just has a clutch pack. you wont notice a differnce. i am going to buy one myself once my physical therapy is done. Be forwarned, the legacy board tends to run more austrailian then american. They are no where as technically knolwdegeable as this board is. On the plus side the svx engine is juts a 2.5 with with two more cylinders. nipper
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i dont think there is anything out there as a bad coolant. Stick with name brand, and use a 50/50 premix, this way the mix is never wrong. Change the coolant regularly and your head gasket, water pump and raditaor will love you. Check the owners manual (of other cars) as some cars can only use the OE coolant ( i know corvetes were like that in the more recenct years). Water out of a dehumidifier is not deminerilized. It carries off minerals from the metal parts of the dehumidifier and also anything in the air. To properly get deminirilized water you need a reverse osmossis filter that is usually a two filters to get out all the salts and other impurities. nipper
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Ej22
nipper replied to legacy63's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
exorcisim. seriously somehow you are getting a backfeed through the dashboard. Remove your turnsignal and brakelight bulbs see if it stops (fronts too). replace each one one ta a time and see when it comes back. blower motor.. how fast is it spinning. What year is this and do you have a electronic HVAC panel. Do all these things happen at the same time (PLEASE say no) nipper -
What the heck?
nipper replied to cx20's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
i laugh at people who put cold air intake systems in the cars. I mean, thats what they have now. They take air from outside the engine compartment. Ive seen cold air systems that actually suck in warm air from the engine compartment. Unless the air intake goes through the AC system ...... (oops may have gave somone an idea) i have a bridge to sell too nipper -
check to make sure you have power to the ignition switch (under the steering column) Get the wiring digram and make sure you have continuity in all the iginion swictch positions. After this check the starter for a short or an open. Check the battery cables also. Battery cables do age and can go bad nipper
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ok let me speak from expeirience here. Almost a year ago july4th i got rearended at a traffic light. The 17yo was doing fifty, i was in a 97 legacy. i wlaked out of the car a little sore, felt fine. 3 days later i was in the ER in a huge amount of pain. 6 weeks later i had a huge problem walking. in january i had to have a badly herniated disc removed and a fusion done. the symtpons of the disc didnt show up for weeks after the accident. GET A COMPLETE MEDICAL EVALUATION i now have some paralysys in my left leg and have become best freinds with a few lawyers. The delay in fixing the disc may or may not have made it worse. but PLEASE make sure you get an cat scan or xrays at the very least. My chiroprachter picked up on what the ER room missed, and he was the first to say i needed surgery. nipper PS keep a phone log of who you talked to when about what. it will come in handy. my car was driveable but bent. The insurance company will total your car most likely. Dont fight them for totaling it. The car after that hard a hit will never be the same no matter how goood the shop. The insurance adjuster pointed out to me my frame was bent by a shifted gap in the hood amd slight shift in the fenders under the hood. i didnt argue. The car did save my life.
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i hate problems like this. Did you check the cam and crank position sensors. Use an analog meter and have a freind crank the engine. Put the meter on the lowest setting, Disconnect the sensors and check for a minimal needle movement. You need to do this when the car stalls. Also you need to check for spark when the car stalls. nipper
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you need to double check all your grounds and power supplies. Make sure there are no ground loops. Your going to have to play with fire poistion too. Is the hum there with the subwoofers disabled or disconnected. you need to play with thinngs one at a time and make sure your speaker phasing is correct. nipper PS found this While not common, sometimes there is a hum problem unless the ground of the subwoofer and ground of the receiver (or processor or preamp) are attached to each other. Sub-A includes an additional conductor with spade-lug tails at both ends of the cable. If the system has a hum problem, try attaching the lugs to the metal chassis of subwoofer amp chassis and to the chassis on the sending end. Normally this extra wire will not be needed.
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210 is almost a give away price. i bet when they get to the cam/main/oil pump seals (which should be done) and the waterpump, they charge for the part AND the labor to get to them, getting her back up in the proper or higher price range. Be careful. Also call the BBB to make sure this dealership is ok. nipper