nipper

It just pops off, They are mountes on rubber gromits. nipper

The duty c solenoid cycles on and off. Anytime you see something about d duty solenoid usually eans it has so any cycles a minute, and is controled by computer of some kind Solenoids only do open and close, they dont do anything in the middle. The stis center differntianl control are a rheostat that sends a to the puter, then the puter sands the cycle speed to the solenoid. NOw when the car is in low gear, you can still make tight turns, so the computer has not been bypassed, as it is still reading the differnt differential speeds and compensating for that. If that is all that wire does and nothing more (and it most likley goes to ground- guessing) then you can have 50/50 split with driveability. Pluging into the c solenoid directly, you have 50/50 locked up all the time... hrmm a 3 position switch. off, 4wd, 4wd Locked.... nipper

dont understand your question .. if you dont know where it is, you really need to open your hood more often and learn how to check your own fluid levels. Hydraulic pumps start chewing themselves up real fats once they start going. Have you ever checked your fluid levels? if you let the pump run low or dry .. the pump will self destruct. nipper

and with a remote starter .. bliss on a cold day nipper

read this ... http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa052601a_2.htm seems more to be a corrosin issue. if you have goop in your radiator.. may be time to have it tested for the presence of exhaust gasses... nipper

yup what he said too nipper

Seems like if you loose them, in deep snow the transmission tunnel gets packed with snow and you cant shift the car (seen that listed on another list). Usually its free to have the mechanic tach weld or screw the sheild down if hes there doing something else and he knows you. nipper

damn thats a great price, make sure its the right part ... nipper

as long as all tires are the same PSI, and per subaru spec within 1/4 inch of circumfrance (sp) you should be ok .. normally. Sometimes stuff happens nipper

these things are under a lot of stress, and just wear out soetimes. You sont need a torn boot for it to happen. nipper

could be just an old belt that did not like the engine cleaner. either tighten the belt or replace it. nipper

These things are modular, come apart real easy and you dont have to remove the needles. Just carfully unsnap the cover, and there are screws in the back of the panel. Real easy nipper

keeps all the mud and dirt and road salt fro the inside of the fender, may also allow for sound deadening nipper

Glad you are ok, but tomorrow make yourself a Doctor apointment and get checked out anyway... nipper

If i am correct, this used to be called a manifold absolute pressure sensor. Its a dual purpose sensor. It flips between manifold pressure and atmospheric pressure. It will affect perforamnce espeically in elevation changes. The solenoid you speak of being stuck means the car is not sensing manifold vaccume. This may be a pricey item at the dealer, but cheaper at a junkyard. nipper

how many miles you two ? nipper

seems like alot of money for a 3hp gain. Thats the estmate on how much HP it takes to run the cooling system. On the reverse side there is no free ride. How much energy does it take pump? edit (answered my own qyestion) > i did the math.. its life is 100000 miles at 50mph and it uses 0.15 HP to operate. In the next few years OE's will be going to electric waterpumps and electric thermostats. Personally i dont see any advantage to it on a subaru engine. i can see the pros and cons. Beisdes the enigne compartment is tight enough already, where would you put it?Now if you were making a high HP turbo motor, the fact that it can run after shutdown is a huge plus. nipper

are you the original owner ? nipper

yes ..... nipper (i agree)

crutchfeild is a great resource for this stufff. They will tell you the dimensions that will fiit in there, as well as what speakers fit. nipper

Well some good news, in my latest issue of Automotive Engineering International (trade mag for SAE Members) full drive by wire is put off till 2015. Brake by wire has too many iissues, but you will see it in hybirds on the rear brakes. Shift by wire is being delayed. Parking brakes are going to be operated by wire. 42volt electrical systems which are required for the other two by wire systems has been delayed too due to extensive costs. nipper

Go to a mom and pop autostore and ask them what brand pipes they use. If they are walker pipes, i would buy from the autoparts store. If they are not, i would go to the dealer. And to save yourself some greif, i would replace everything from the cat back and be done with it. i agree if OE parts lasted for so long, i would go that route. Walker is sometimes a supplier to OE thats why i recomend them. nipper

Actually before you do that, throw a mechanical gauge on the car, dont always trust factory gauges. Get a true reading. After that, i dont know what to tell you, i would replace the pump, not reseal it. What determins oil pressure is the wear on the main and connecting rod bearings. The more wear there is the lower the pressure. You may try a thicker oil. Thats what i would do. nipper

broken pic nipper

well experiment with one of the clusters, its easy to change the milage, just pry up the little plastic keepr that snaps in the odometer set your numbers, then push it back on nippper