nipper

Just checked my owenrs manual (its a little nippy outside for sept), it says "the roof cross bar kit is desighned to carry loads (luggage and roof rack) of not more then 100 lbs" Says that in two places actually. Why not just have it stick out the back of the car ?

maybe a cup holder and lamp? hehehe nipper

DOnt go by what the car is worth, go by what the car is worth to you. Also what would you replace it with, and how much would it cost to buy a rpelacement, then all the regitration fees etc etc. Unless the body was shot to hell, i would put a clutch in it . nipper

I wouldnt go past 100 lbs, thats what it says in my 97 and 98 owners manual. The weight my not be an issue, as it is having all that weight in a base of 8". I am 90% sure the roof will survive, but i dont think the trim and the rest of the roor rack will survive it. nipper

Thats an engine that was really overheated. I wouldn't trust that block for anything but a coffee table. It still happens from time to time on the newer soobys toonipper

Hi I was poking my nose in here for old times sake, and i had the same issue with my 88 Subaru. I replaced the radiator (totally clogged) and the problem went away. www.radiator.com had one for about 100.00 a few years ago. The radiator gets cloged with gunk, old fluid slime, and the residue from using tap water in an aluminum engine as opposed to deminerilized water. I would not use a chemical flush at this time, or any time. That rust is holding together your radiator and your heatercore. your heater core has a much larger passageway then the radiator core. In fact a chemical flush can also remove the rust holding together your heater core too. nipper

Just out of curiostiy, whats the milage on this puppy, and is it the original clutch? nipper

Cable clutch, sure, make it tough. Examine the clutch cabe carefully. http://clutchwizard.com/diagnosis.htm see if that helps. nipper

Actually Subaru had no say in the truck catagory. The EPA was the one that catagorized it as a truck, not Subaru. Otherwise you mave a point or two, but I would still prefer it over a real SUV. nipper

This is sounding more and more like a bad hydraulic clutch (if the car doesnt have one i'ld go with the clutch). Try this, from a dead stop put the car in third gear and try to take off. The car should protest a lot, and maybe even stall. If the clutch is bad, the clutch will slip. What I think is happening, is that when the car is cold, all the tolerances inside the cylinders are nice and tight. As the car warms up, fluids thin out, parts expand. Fluid starts bypassing the internals, and you cant shift. If it was me, I would replace both the master and the slave cylinder. I had a 79 civic that would do this on occasion, but it would require heavy bumper to bumper stop and go traffic. On occasion some clutchs wil do this as they cant dissipate the heat (summer, ac on, moving 5 feet at a time for many miles). Once the clutch cooled of (in about 5 minutes) the issue went away. nipper

Have you checked ebay? nipper

Well thats just nitpicking then. But its the touchy feely things that will get a car poor ratings quickly. nipper

The connectors under the hood are fairly robust and can withstand a good dunking. If you are worried about ti you can put greas in the exposed connector ends or die electric grease to water broof them. Is it possible your sucking in water? A loud lifter noise after gooing through deep water. The other way of looking at it is that the car is suddenly cooled off by going through deep water. Maybe the valve clearances arent set right? You are saying you get loud lifter tick? nipper

Its one of the mystery black boxes by the hood release if I remeber right nipper

Usually its the oppsite problem. Well lets analyze this. feel free to tell me im nuts you said: I live in the mountains and when I'd start going down the temp gauge would slowly move up to about a 1/4 , go down a bit, go up to half, and by the time I was at the bottom of the mountain, the temp gauge would be at C. (Approximately 14 miles) As soon as I turned the corner and drove a couple of blocks, the temp gauge would move to its normal position of one mark past the middle. Ok now with a stuck open thermostate, going down hill the car is not doing any work. when you first start off the engine is doing some work, hence the rais to the 1/4 mark. And since the thermostate is stuck open, it is a slow rise. Going down hill the engine is doing no work, and tons of air rushing through the raditor, lowering the gauge to cold. I am assuming you dont live in or near death valley When you get down the hill the engine now has a load to deal with and the temp gauge rises to its normal position. How is your gas milage? it may be affected by this. another thing you can check is when you start the car, remove the radiator cap and see if you se any dramatic water flow. When the car is cold there may be some (with a functioning thermostate), but when the car wrms up, then there is a huge change in flow. Does the car get heat? If it doesnt get heat while going down hill, the thermostate is stuck open. nipper

Has anyoone checked to see if the thermostate is stuck open or acting weird. nipper

Have you ever tried shifting the car after it has shut off for an hour? nipper

Thats brilliant! It does solve alot of issues I had in my head about doing a conversion of other vehicals. It makes for a great mid engine balance. I wonder how durable that is. The Eldorado and Tornado. used to use a massive chain to deliver the power to the front wheels. I bet with a little hunting one can find a nice gearbox to do that. nipper

http://www.geocities.com/kuleshoff/ECT.htm try that and see if that helps. Its for a newer car but I dont think subaru really changes locations of this stuff too much from year to year My hanes manual shows it as being between the PS pump and alt "on coolant pipe under intake manifold runner" I can scan the page and email it to you if you want. nipper

What happens if you start off in D2? It sounds like it may be something simple. An automatic tranny is a balance between govenor pressure and throttle pressure. Throttle pressure is determined by the position of the throttle. It sounds like the car cannot tell the postion of the throttle. On some cars this is done via a cable connected to the throttle, on others its done using a vacume modulator, and the third way is that it is done by computer. Im not sure which you have, but since my Hayes manula doesnt mention any cables or vacum lines in the transmission removal procedures, im going to guess its electronic. I dont know if it has its own black box or works off the ECU. Found this http://www.carsoft.ru/avtorepair/SubSU/SU1003.pdf the wiring diagram for the tranny. nipper

It really depends upon what makes you feel good. In subarus I have never used synthetic oil and always had them last over 200K. Other people have used synthetic oil and got the same thing. The oil may last 6000 miles, but if the owners manual says a filter change at "x" miles, you still need to do that filter change at "x" miles. nipper

How new are the pads, and what brand. nipper

AFter youy stop the car, bounce on the back of it. It may be a suspension noise. Is the noise a groan or a sqeek? nipper

Yes down shift. If the hill is long enough, any brake will start to fade eventually. Never totally rely on the brakes on downhills, otherwise they wont be there when the deer jumps out in front of you. nipper

Check your negative battery cable at the battery and where it terminates. Clean your battery posts and cable ends., and make sure your posts have 100% contact with the battery. This is sounding more and more liks a bad battery cable or dirty cable connection nipper