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Everything posted by nipper
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Oka little truth about teflon. I used to work with teflon all the time. Its a milky whiteliquid in its raw form. Scintering temperiture is aprox 575 degrees F. Tis is the temperiture where teflon actually melts and bonds with whatever surface it is on, or whatever it is mixed with. In this form it is being used as a barrier. One of things that you have to ask yourself, if it is a non stick surface, how can it stick to car paint? From looking at the web site, I dont see what makes it so special. Chemically I dont think it really adhears to the paint. Also I cant find a copy of the warrenty. Also I wonder about whay they say "Simoniz Double Bond with Teflon would be an outstanding product to have applied to your car while at the car wash" If nothing sticks to teflon, how can you apply more teflon to teflon? The only fragile color I've seen on here from subaru is the chaimpain or "pink" color.Personally I think its a waste of money. nipper
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ut oh... Well adjust the clutch cable, and see what happens, but a little slip usually doesnt go away a clutch adjustment. The haynes manual has some interesting tests for clutch problems. They have a spindown test, with the car in neutral, at idle speed, press the clutch, count to three seconds and shift in reverse, there should be no grinding. Another from Haynes is hold the clutch pedal 1/2 inch off the floor (parking brake on) car idleing, shift the car between 1st and reverse several times. If the shift is rough, the clutch assy is defective. One i use is try to start the car off from a dead stop in third gear. The car should buck and fight and maybe stall. If you can do it, you have a clutch starting to go out. Was this yout first stick ? nipper
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Water pump stator erodes over time. usually the bearing fails long before that happens. Head gasket is an easy one. Start the car with the radiator full and the cap off. Let the car warm up so the thermostate opens. If there are bubbles, then you have a blown head gasket. Tiny bubble will go away, these are from the onrush of radiator flow. Big bubbles from a blown headgasket will not go away. nipper
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Quick check on the net says on the mazda board, they used to supply mazda. Also they are mentioned on the toyota board. Ive used them as power transmission (pump drives) so they sound ok. I havent found anything on the net saying "these arent worth (fill in the blank)" Found this http://www.autopartsauthority.com/specials/suba~timing~beltparts.html nipper
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The only plugs that I found to be crap are Champions (which is a shame because they used to be damn good plugs), it seems they foul quicker. I use Bosch platnium plugs with no problem. I think (someone correct me on this) that OE use NGK or Nippondenso. The wrong brand plug cant do real damage per se, just drivability issues. Even with driveability issues, that can just be a matter of finding the right heat range for your own driving needs. nipper
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I have the same tires and i have the same thing. I was going to go back to the tire shop, untill I started paying attention to when it happened. I discovered it happend on some roads and not on others. The roads have differnt surfaces and of differnt ages. I came to the conclusion that the tread design is sensative to some road surfaces and not others. I had a set of goodyears that were like that too at one time. The wobble was extreemly minor, and not enough to cause driver fatigue. Since I didnt feel it in the breaks, or the drivers seat, I decided I am going to live with it untill the next tire rotation. just an idea. nipper
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Subaru engines (aside from the head gasket hiccups) are designed well. There is usually very little wear on the bootom end of the engine due to the opposed piston design. It seems like they are doing something right, and its very rare that anyone here talks of a spun bearing. I would leave things as subaru had them. I did see what your talking about in the Haynes manual, but i cant see where its coming from. You need to find a Lubrication diagram to see what it is. Is it a thru pipe or just a dead end? Also remeber that an engine oil system is just a bunch of passage ways with very controled leaks. Resistance to flow (the controled leaks) is how one develops oil pressure. By leaving out this oring you may be causing a big leak and effectivly dropping your oil pressure. I dont think you really want to tinker with it. nipper
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I would say its one of three things, A- an air pocket, or B- a cloged radiator C- missing radiator fins. Radiator flushes over the counter dont really work all that well on a hige milage radiator. Also one other thing to consider. I had the same problem and decided it was time to replace the radiator. I ordered one of the net (www.radiator.com great people, they know cars). I pulled it out, and 30% of the cooling fins were gone. I could not see it because the AC was in front of the radiator. From the fan side the radiator looked fine. nipper
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For the cost of what an engie goes for, I would rather change the filter at recomended intervals, then take the chance. ALso the better question is who makes the filter for them, as I doubt mobile is in the oil filter business. Some filters arent worht the powder and shot to blow them to hell, others are great. nipper
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what should my compression test at
nipper replied to jeffast's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
If its a turbo i mised that... turbo oil seals can cause high oil consumption. Also if the turbo is seized or dragging you will have lots of power and running issues. nipper -
Ok i got slammed at 50 mph (july 1) while i was at a red light and the car was totaled, it was a 97 legacy. I ended up with a twisted knee, ankle, hips and a herniated disc. My car was driveable for a few weeks then it started making a sound it never made before. After i parked it in the driveway for a week, I noticed a very very subtle kink in the hood. That was not there before. So make sure you go over the car with a fine tooth comb, and also yourself too. nipper