nipper

Pull the radiator and inspect it. Sometimes the cooling fins get bent or fall apart with age. Once you get the raditor out, rinse it with a hose to see how loose the fins are. I doubt its head gaskets, it sound more like a radiator issue. Dont bother getting the radiaotr rebuilt, just get another one off the net. nipper

The only time you have to worry about things like this is if your reusing the clutch you just removed. If there is no "0" mark on the flywheel dont worry about it. nipper

er um .... so how about those Mets .... (theres only one place white smoke billows out from in a engine) Take off your radiator cap, fill the radiator, start the car with the cap off, look for bubbles. Keep an eye on the temp gauge. how many miles on this puppy? nipper

Dont beat on it, there is the outside chance you can burn a exhaust valve. Backpressure also slows the speed of hor gasses past the exhaust valve. I dorve mine for a week like that (about 350 miles) with no issues, aside from a headache. nipper

Try this next time. Turn the car to on, do not start it. Wait a few seconds (give the fuel pump a chance to pressureize the fuel system). The start the car and see if there is a differnce. A bad fuel pump of filter would usually show up on acceleration or high speed driving. Sometiems a part store will pull the codes for free. I have seen code readers cheap on ebay. nipper

Amoco premium has always been the gas I've been told to use when suspecting a fuel quality issue. BP smartly kept that fuel independint of the rest of its fuels when they merged. Bp also has its own refineries. nipper

I think the waiver for epa blends of gasoline are still in effect from Katrina. I would say from that list the LEAST likely culprit is the additive. Could it be the wrong heat range of plugs? What brand plugs were installed. Subarus can be picky with plugs. nipper

cool maybe i had a conversion or somethng it did have some pep to it, and was a blast to drive. nipper

That was my first Subaru (long Island, NY). I bought it used. It only had FWD and had a digital dash, The trip computer was neat, but actually screamed when it died. the car called it quits at 226K, with the original clutch. The car still ran, but cancer cought up to it. Odd i thought it was limited edition for america, as the drivers seat was where it belonged, but it did have the dual carbs. nipper

Did a little poking on the web found this http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/2000/August/05.html http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2002/06/13/142004.html nipper

From looking at the "technician ceritification test" (hehe bet that looks good on the resume), they list a multiple choice question for apllication, none of which is anything different then you would do with paste wax. To get a car profesionally detailed here on NY it costs 100.00. I have afreind that has it done once a year, and uses the car wash inbetween. His paint hiolds up realy well. The simonize is not going to protect it from stone chips or anything else. I'ld go with the once a year detailing myself. I mean even with the simonizing you go to the car wash. Odd i noticed yesterday that my local car wash uses the "simonizing" process for a extra couple of bucks. I can tell you from working in the car wash industry (used to design the machines), a 50 gallon drum of selant cost us 350.00. We would dilute it 10:1, and sell it for 50.00 for a 5 gallon jug for 35.00 and even that was dilluted at the machine to 7ounces to 1 gallon water. Just food for thought on the cost basis of these things. nipper nipper

You need to pull the codes. I agree it sounds like a fuel problem as opposed to a ignition issue. nipper

Yes it would. Also get four studs and replace them too. I had the same issue you had once, and the bolts kept loosening themselves untill i replaced the studs, then the problem was fixed for good. nipper

Is this the 94 loyale with 40K on it? wow im impressed. With such low mileage on the car, I would suspect a internal rust collapse someplace in the exhaust system (if its the original). It could be the internals of the cat rusted, the muffler collapsed etc. the weakest point in the exhaust systeml\, if i remebr correctly, are those gaskets. Everything else is a nice tight bolted flange, with equalized heat loads on either side of the flange. The fact that car was struggling up the hill is a sign that something is already clogged/blocked. That cat pipe is not cheap, and I strongly suggest you shop around for it. I got mine from JC Whitney, at a very respectable price, and it was name brand. I have heard good things about http://www.catalyticonverters.com/ . A subaru can climb a tree, albeit not very fast without complaining. See if you can shake the exhaust system, or hit the cat and the muffler with your nhand an see if anything rattles (wear saftey galsses). how was your gas milage before this? Did the car seem to perform less with more gas applied? nipper

Found this http://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/E/pub/cp/rc4227/rc4227-e.html#P108_1917 I think a full sized crossbow is legal, a small one is not. Once I had something declared a "weapon" and it was confiscated at the Border. Much to my surprise, 5 days later when I came back, I could pick it up on the american side. I was told thats how they handle things that are leagl in the US but legal in Canada, so in theory its not something that you ate going to loose for ever. nipper

Overfilling is a possability. I would clean the engine and then look under the hood after i smell the fluid. How does it shift? nipper

Depending upon how much current they draw, you may have to wire in a relay to handle the extra current. Maybe send an email to who you bought them from, and he can tell you.. nipper

Check the tires. Get under the car and try to shake and move the front axles by hand, there should be no play. Jack up eacj front whell and try to shake it. Also get under the car (if awd/4wd) and grap the rear driveshaft and shake that and see if there is any ply in those joints. I have had that thumthumthump a few times, Once was a cv joint on its way out, once was a wheel bearing, and once was the driveshaft, thoug the last one gave a lot of small hints before it went. This is something that will NOT get better or go away on its on and needs to be diagnosed. nipper

I would guess a plugged cat caused the gasket to blow out, or an internally collapsed pipe. Cars need backpressure to help make torque, so you will find the performance lacking. Was it slowly getting louder over time , thenall of asudden very loud, or did it just let go? nipper

I just tried again and got a pop up hthat stated thier host went out of busines and they are tryng to find another one. nipper

It oponed for me nipper

like I said it depends upon the freeplay at the the pedal. Free play at the pedal should be 3/8 - 3/16 of an inch. If its not there you loosen it, if its too much you tighten it. Also inspect the cable to make sure its not fraing and the cable housing is good. nipper

The rattling exhaust system is a loose heat sheild. What is the power ant doing or not doing? welcome nipper

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Bridgestone&model=Blizzak+WS-50&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&partnum=07R5BZWS50 Use the revolutions per mile to check the cricumfrence betwen the tires you have now and the blizzacks. The rotation per mile is found on the tire specs tab of any given tire. nipper

well lets see ..send them to me and ill try to figure it out ... yeah.... heheheeh nipper