nipper

That sounds more like a fuel/ignition problem then a motor mount, but i could be wrong. Of course there is checking the obvious, inspect the motor mounts to see if they are bad. does it do it no matter what engine rpm you upshift from? Actually sounds like a broken motor mount as opposed to a weak one. joe

Do you mean the tendency of the engine to roll under the hood? Joe

Ok easy test then. Get the car up on ramps (or a lift if so blessed) and grab the driveshat and shake it. There should be no play. If there is play, it comes out easily and take it to your nearby freindly drive shaft rebuilder. The shaft from subaru is 350.00, the modification from a rebuilder should run around 100-150. This will get worse with time. The reason it does it only at two speeds is that your hitting the critical frequency of the U Joint. Eventually it will get unbareable and the car will be undriveable. This is the only thing i can think of. I do beleive that you can drive the car with the shaft out untill its fixed. I know with my 5sp i could. The way the Subaru tranny is you should be able to too. the reason it still does it with the FWD fuse in it is because the rear wheels are driving the shaft. Joe

Next time it happens, put the car in neutral. Usually even a bad switch is more forgiving in neutral then it in park. you really need to go over everything with a volt meter. Even if it is a waste of money, I would replace the battery cables befor i dug into the igntion switch as a last resort. Battery cables can do odd things. And also there are such things as bad "new" starters. Do you have a battery load tester. Usually they can show the volt drop when cranking. Joe

You need a leak test. Its simple to do, and usually the #1 cause is a bad o ring. Unfortunitly it sounds like a very fast leak so you will need a Sniffer to do it as opposed to a slow leak with soap bubbles (poor mans sniffer). Joe

Way cool. I think i may have one of the few 2.5L that does not have an issue. The only thing i noticed from my 2.2L to the 2.5L is that it doesnt need to downshift as much around town to get going, so it gets a little better gas mialge around town. i havent done a good highway run yet, but have nioticed it has more power to climb hills. Way cool on lisiting the prices, nice to see the numbers. You got a good price on labor. SOunds like about 35 hrs labor. Good luck with it Joe

Is this an AWD ? since it comes when things double i would rule out anything in the engine, otherwise it would happen in the same spot at the same rpm. Where does the vibration feel like it is coming from. If it is AWD it sounds like its the universal for the rear drivehsaft. This is easy to remove, but can be scary to buy. Go to a drive shaft rebuilder and they will repair it for 1/3 the cost of the new part from Subaru. They fit a ford Uni-joint to it, as the Subaru part is unservicable. Joe

That key is sacraficial. It is meant to sheer and can be replaced. Joe

Ok start with the simple things. Inspect the battery terminals, starter terminals and battery cables. Battery cables do go bad with time. I have never heard of a sooby ignition switch going bad, Ford yes... Relays have a range of voltage that they pull in at, usually staring at about 8 volts. Since you know which terminals are which, use a volt meter and see what the voltages are at the relay coil. According to my trusty manual there is a starter interlock relay only if you have a stick. Also it could be a bad neutral saftey switch. When it tires to start, is there a delay then it cranks normally, or does it crank slowly. By directly jumping the starter, you are also bypassing the battery cable. There are a bunch of relays that energize when the car is in the on position. I dont think that relay has anything to do with it. Check the nattery cable. The very last thing to look at is the ignition switch. Go to the "get it while its hot" post, the wiring diagram for the starter curcuit is there. Sounds like it may be a weak starter winding, but cant tell from here. Joe

Supposedly the new AWD system will find the wheel with the most grip ( the one that isn't spinning) and send 100% of the power to that one wheel by applying the brakes and other computerized magic. No one has tested that yet, but could be interesting. This could make me turn in my 97 OBW for a new one. I'll see if i can find that link again. nipper

Sounds like they didnt tighten the nut properly. Get it fixed ASAP. Joe

You may never do it intintionally, but when the women talking on her cell phone in her Expidition doesnt see you and changes lanes into yours, its really GOOD to know what your car is going to do and how to counter its reactions. Its always very interesting to feel the AWD kick in on dry pavement at 70mph when that happens.... Joe

As long as the cricurmfance stays the same it doesnt matter. What i've been seeing lately in tire specs, espeically tires with extreem sidewalls, is a new refernce number, I think its rotations per mile. Its not hard to calculate that for the stock tire. As long as you saty close to that number you should be ok Joe

As long as the tranny doesnt slip, and the fluid isnt burnt, its worth chaingin the filter and fluid on it. It sounds like the valve body is gummed up. it may take a couple of changes to get it going, but it doesnt sound like anything horrible. Joe

Look at my post "get it while its hot" it should have the wiring diagram there (i think) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43489 nipper

Orings can shrink, dry out, crack, or if contaminated swell. Thats how they fail. nipper

The only place i can see the advantage to the Optima Yellowtop is if you are are always driving over rough Roads. They seem to be immune from vibration, which will kill a battery as faster then texas heat (granted its slow death). Otherwise they are extreem overkill for normal car use. Joe

I would think a 97 with rear discs would bolt right in. Subaru isnt one for making things too difficult for themselves. You will need to get rid of the proprtining valve, use the Master cylinder, and whatever things the rear brakes are attached to (sorry its late ). Should be a straight bolt in. Joe

Go to an autopart store and let them do a free load test. You can stand right next to them and watch the meter yourself to see what it says, so you wont feel like your getting snowed. yes it is still possible you have an altnator issue. The meter on the load testor is easy to read, its pass/fail. Joe

Sounds like the backin plate is rubbing against the rotor ... just a thought Joe

I always thought it was some sort of guarnteeed employment program. We dont complain about NJ gas prices as they are cheaper then NY, and about the same as surounding states with self service (or used to be). Joe

I would just by a plain ol 60 month battery, not one of the top of the line batteries. I have yet to see any differnce between a 150.00 battery and a 70.00 battery. I also think its just all coincidence that everything went poof at the same time. Sometimes stuff happens. How old is the battery in the car. Does the battery still look square, or is it bulging slightly. Unless the amplifier is running 100's of watts ... i wouldnt be convinced. Also wattage on output of amplifiers is purly subjective of the mfg. I'ld just get a battery from someplace else . Last place to buy a battery or altenator is a stero store. Joe

Well if the 1-2 shift is a slipy there is an answer. I would go to a GOOD transmission shop or mechanic. There also is the old addage that it will only get more obvious with time. If it is a duty solenoid failure, do you have any symptons of torque bind. If you do and the solenoid has failed, put a fuse in the FWD holder. The torque bind will not change (since the solenoid failed) and there is your answer. You shouldnt drive with the solenoid failed, as you will have driveline damage with time. Joe

Way cool that it worked out for you Joe

Personally, if it was me, I would inspect the Rear main seal and transmission input shaft seal, and depending upon mileage replace them. But it does sound like your mechanic is on top of everything. Joe