nipper

Actually the tire pressure on the side of the tires i have now BF Goodrich have a cold pressure an a max pressure. I always go by the cold.

Yes the airlines are fixable. This is where others with air suspension exp can jump in. They are just some sort of hard plastic (I think been ages since Ive seen one). I would start with a call to Subaru Parts dept and see what they have to fix it.....anyone else can chime in on this? nipper

Here is some information from somone who has been thinking about it: http://www.statikdesign.com/scratchbuilt/drivetrain/awd.html Someone who may know more http://www.kennedyeng.com/ Picture of an H-6 http://www.geocities.com/pepesvx/e1.html This site looks like its in russian but the pics arent AND WOHOO! http://www.carsoft.ru/avtorepair/subaru.html scroll down there are assembly pics of some of the parts (amazing what you can find on the net) A porsche with a sooby engine http://www.etischer.com/914xt.html Dont know if this helps at all but I do want to hear more about this project nipper

From the haynes manual "Remove the pitching stoper (anti-dive bone shaped). In place of the pitching stopper, subaru recomends installing a special tool to adjust the angle of the engine to facilitate transakel removal.If you are unable to obtain the special subaru tool, you will need an extra jack or engine hoist to slightly raise the front of the engine Removing and installing the transaxle without either of these tools is very difficult" Also in the engine removal section it says to remove this brace. It also describes four bolts, 2 upper two lower. nipper

Hunting around I found this.. http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0208scc_tires/ and a formula (we all lve formulas) In the event that you aren't able to find a recommendation for your car, or the tires on your car are so different from those that were originally fitted from the manufacturer as to be incomparable, we received the following rule of thumb from Oscar Pereda, an engineer for BFGoodrich. He calls it a "realistic starting point," saying it has never been just right, but is a good place to start. The rule is: (Vehicle Weight in lb/100) + 2 psi at heavier end + 2 psi all around if suspension and alignment are stock. Example: Stock 911, 3,000 lb. (3000/100) = 30 psi Add 2 psi all around = 32 psi Add 2 psi to heavy end = 34 psi at rear With modified suspension, the result is 30 psi front, 32 psi rear. Seems like there is no set rule on air pressure, if you read the article. I have always gone by whats on the tire. I always had tires last 3-4 years ( I drive a lot) and gotten good gas milage. nipper

What are the "other parts". No matter how you cut it that sounds at least 800.00 too high to me. You need to get a second opinion. nipper

You always go by whats on the tire, the sticker on the car only applies to the orignal tires. A car that says 30 psi on the sticker that has a new set of tires on it that say 38psi, thats a dangerous situation. This is very important, especially with Subarus, because we tend to keep them forever. My 1988 had a tire pressure rating of 28psi, but when the car was 13 years old, I had Doodyear aquatreads on it, which was rated at 38psi. I would always come out of The oil change place with 4 flats. nipper

Yes they can be, but that is a lot of work. Shafts can also be weighed. The can also be marked and rotated like the wheels. nipper

I just read my hayes manual, and it sounds like there should be zero play in the cv joint. ALso if one has play and one doesnt, sounds like you have a cv joint starting to go. Here is what to do for a really hard to find vibration in the front end, but it sounds like it may be the cv joiint OK here are some things to try, but it requires finding a really good front end shop. Some shops have a wheel spinner. With all 4 wheels up off the ground, the AWD should not be an issue. For really tough vibration problems, they take a big electric motor and spin the front wheel as a unit. This checks the balance of the entire "system" (tire, wheel, hub, bearing, drivshaft). WHat it may be is whats called tolerance stacking. Any indivdual peice may be within spec, but can be on the high side of the spec. Every spec has a +/- tolerance. Get enough things on the + side, you will get a vibration. This is done with the engine off and the car in neutral to rule out any engine/transmission source. Also review what should be checked: Tires for flat spots and broken belts (remove tires for this and look on the inside). Weigh both tires and see if they are the same weight on a good scale. Check the wheel itself for runout on both sides and any flat spots. Check rotors for flat spts, hard spots and to make sure they are perfectly round. Check the preload on the bearings Check all ball joints, bearing and busings in the front end. Inspect motomounts. Check the hub if possible for runout. When you remove the tires, mark them in refernce to the lug nuts, then install the tire 2 lug nuts from the original position (one at a time) and see if that changes the vibration. No matter how many times you have had the front wheels off, you cannot guarentee that they did not go back on the same way they came off (murphys law).

That would be an interesting project to say the least. I always wanted to put a sooby turbo or 6 cylinder and awd system in a corvair..but i would end up with one forward speed and 5 reverse speeds. I always thought if womone could put a jag v-12 in one i could put a sooby in one too.... But then the drugs wear off and I become sane again nipper

I think there are alot of posts about that here, you just have to do a search on it. Beofre the mjor surgery, I would check the compressor and airlines for leaks, doing a bubble test just to make sure. nipper

If you get it at a pull-a-part get two, keep one in the glove box. Murphys law, if you have a spare one you wont need it. nipper

Then how can it overheat? The way the viscous coupling works is the fluid thickins when it gets hot. The source of the friction are a set of plates, each have calibrated holes ( or fingers) in them. The differnce in rotational mass causes a diffenrce in rotational speed in the discs. Normally when the roatational speed from the engine is greater then the resistive force of the rear wheels, this causes the fluid to sheer and get hot from friction. With the load removed (no driveshaft) there is no resistance to having the output shaft rotate, so it just free wheels. Overheating of the viscus coupling happens when one set of wheels is spinning and the other set of wheels are not, presneting a load on the fluid. . In essence the rear wheels do not exist so there is no resisitive force, and it will not over heat. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential9.htm nipper

If you have a timing light, check the timing that way. It sounds like something is 180 degrees out of wack, which is easy to do. nipper

Yes and no. Since the shaft is removed, ther is no resistance, and it will just freely spin with no load. Same for a puter controlled tranny. nipper

Depending where you live, the CEL lamp will tell on you at inspection, even if you have a calibrated optical filter (read black tape). over the bulb. Alot of locals now scan the puter for codes at inspection. nipper

Damn that was my best guess too. Actually I think you just answered your own question. nipper

It sounds like its the ignitor, or whatever they call the little electronic module in the distributor, I had the same thing on an 88 and drove me up the wall untill it finally died. I ended up replaceing the dist and the module, since the dist had way more play in it then i liked. nipper

As far as i know there was the part time dual range 4wd; part time single range 4wd; Awd with a computer controlled clutchpack, and AWD with a viscous coupling. As far as HP I would suggest max HP for whatever engine that year tranny would take, plus 25%. Subaru tends to overbuild things. I dont know if there were differnt transmissions for the turbo vs. non turbo. If there is no differnce aside from gear ratios, I would go by the turbo HP for that year. nipper (hope I didnt confuse you)

How did you check the timing? nipper

If the deck has an input ofr a cd changer you can get an adapter that will allow you to play your ipod thru it easily nipper

I agree it sounds like it is a float issue. The only other possability depending upon how the coil is oriented is a bad coil. If the coil is mounted on its side, the coil can have a weak spark on turns as the opil inside the coil shifts to the other side of the coil. Joe

There is the rare failure of a clutch finger breaking. I dont know what the sympton is for it, but right now adjust the cable or replace the cable and see what happens. I had this once on a new clutch, the shop never replaced the cable. nippper

This may be the one area that requires a dealer visit. I cant seem to find anything for the DYI on trouble shooting it. Joe

Ok if this started suddenly, did you check to see if the cooling fans are operating. next if the are operating, remove the radiator cap and look for two things. First thing your going to look for is water flow (have somone keep an eye on the temp gauge), second for bubbles in the water. Also what color is your exhaust. I dont think this is head gasket, sounds more like a stuck thermostate or failed cooling fans. Another possability is if you have operating AC, turn it on to max and see if the cooling fans kick on. That would tell you if you have a bad Radiator fan motor, or a bad switch. Have you had any work done recently on the car? Joe