djcommie

Subaru cars equipped with manuals are so common, you may be able to just buy a manual car and sell your automatic one, I've never found it viable to do swaps when you may actually get a better car out of a 'donor.'

I think the torque on the 4WD rear hubs is 140-170ft.lbs or so, or it has a missing/damaged cone washer.

In my old 323 GTX days, a big turbo swap meant a slight gain in mileage, probably more likely to driving more out of boost than the volumetric efficiency benefit from the larger turbo. Honestly without actually doing something with the engine management to manage different injectors, air volume, etc, you're going to make a weak engine that won't have good economy since it'll be always injecting more fuel at the ratio of the upsizing of the injectors. Get some high impedance (not peak & hold) injectors, megasquirt, and actually let it manage your fuel and boost. I never modify anything without actual control of the engine's air/fuel parameters.

The red tube is where the PCV valve goes, the brass barbed fitting is usually replaced by a tee to the valce cover tubes. Earlier cars just vent those tubes into the air cleaner, later cars through a PCV valve.

Neither California nor Federal 77-79s had cats, so adding one would be erroneous. The Weber isn't emissions legal (would need a CARB exepmtion order (EO)), but they work well enough that they can pass tailpipe. EGR on those is controlled by a port on the original carburetor, so you may not even have it hooked up correctly. Mine opens around 2600RPM slightly, and is at full open by 3500RPM unloaded, which is what the factory spec is. I haven't put a vacuum gauge on it while driving on the road yet, but I imagine that is close to how it will operate. Oddly enough, if you call the DMV, they're quite helpful. Just realize that asking about ancient cars with no new stock parts left at the bottom tier of pricing above scrap value from the Malaise era don't register (ha!) as particularly important to the DMV.

Its not easy, nor feasible. The only way I know of to not have smog testing is to have an address within a non-smog county inside of certain parts of El Dorado, Placer, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, or Sonoma county. There's kit car exemptions but they are for NEW vehicles. That means its a Federal specification emissions system, which likely wasn't really any different than the California version except for carburetor jetting.

I have no idea what you are talking about, I never had any issue registered Federal (49 state) emissions cars in California, as recently as 4 months ago. The database for the smog machines knowss what the limits and functionality of Federal cars is, it just sees it as a different engine than the California version. edit: I had no problem registering a 1990 Federal Spec Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo either, so its not an OBD type issue either.

Rocking doesn't prove that its straight. Using a plate of glass and some high grit sandpaper (500+) can help check and make the surfaces flat.

Top and bottom actually, heating up the boots made the glue set faster as well as kept them from pulling out of the metal floor.

Pistons don't really wear that much other than the skirts and where the wrist pin rides. If those are fine, you'd likely not have any trouble.

I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to hold my shift boots in the floor, it worked great and isn't so strong that I couldn't remove them with some acetone on a q-tip. edit: the original AC stuff I sent you has everything to go to the little vents on the ends of the dash and lets you do hot defrost with the A/C, something one of those under-dash evaporators wouldn't ever do.

The company I work for has a vendor that does custom moldings, I actually started going through their catalog to see what sort of similar profile material the do have. The biggest problem is it has a 90deg bend and a 30-ish degree bend in the seal that goes against the windshield, so you might have to layer and glue two seals together to get those curves/angles. I'm sure glad my 78 4WD wagon has its seals mostly intact.

AIr suction system can be removed, EGR too. EGR actually lowers pumping losses and doesn't really remove any power from the engine.

Unleaded shouldn't be a problem, the compression ratio is low and the valve seats are hardened. 10% Ethanol gas is probably not an issue if you keep on top of checking your fuel hoses for any swelling/leaking. It may eat the carb float and/or accelerator pump eventually, but a newer rebuilt kit might have compatible rubber/plastic. I'd recommend you go through the carb anyway, its not hard to rebuild and would likely be gunked up if the car had sat for an extended period of time with fuel in it. The 'top-mount' starter EA71 engines would need the bellhousing of a later "side-mount" starter to match with a later transmission, giving you low range and 5 speeds. Later engines (EA81/EA82) would require custom crossmembers and other such magic to make fit. At that point, maybe putting on a Weber carb would get you some power.

I'm glad that stuff got there in one piece, I was concerned that it that stuff made it 35 years untouched only to be damaged by a careless shipper. Like I said, I'll keep you updated on what I do with my A/C setup to get it working, maybe I can order a second set of A/C hoses when I get mine made.

Do these have high/low beams? Are these the 5 3/4" or the 7" ones? They'd be perfect for my 63 VW dune buggy if they are 7"! edit: Trade for some of that NOS aircon parts?

It sounds like you have clutch actuation trouble, or low/no gear oil. Check your hydraulic fluid and master/slave cylinders or clutch cable adjustment (whichever it has). Check the transmission dipstick as well.

I know our conversation about it kinda died out, but I do still have all that brand new air conditioning stuff (evaporator, etc) if you want it. You could probably source the rest of the parts from a junkyard car.

The voltage regulator controls it, hence the odd color for it.

That looks like the Hitachi electronic distributor, originally on automatic California EA71s. I have one in my 78 4WD Wagon. I have a complete Denso one you can have cheap in trade for that (and its ignitor), it only needs a new advance/retard diaphram and has the ignitor internal to it, makes for easier wiring as it takes its power right off the coil!

I've seen a similar relay for the air conditioning system, if it has/had one. A winch relay would likely be a lot larger, closer to an external starter relay.

I have a spare one as well, its an original all-brass unit. It had the mechanical fan touch it once, but I didn't see any channels damaged, only some fin flattening.

I had the same issue and had a dirty switch, dirty fuses, AND blown bulbs on my 4 headlight GL. If you want 4 headlights I have the buckets/brackets and grille...

EA71s have it against the head with no ill effects, so I'd say its not a problem if both sides have the spacers removed to prevent the Y pipe from warping.

Those Hurricane Sandy cars are still appearing sometimes, I'd suggest checking under the carpets for sand/mud/water indications as well.