BeefaRu

UPDATE: Second picture added below I dropped off my car at a local builder I recently stumbled across. Before I saw the photos on the walls, he pulled me into the 5 lift shop and showed me a jaw dropping beast he's built that was on the lift for repairs from a recent test drive. Complete frame lift of a chassis that may be a combo of several cars, all skins (doors hood fenders etc) were custom fabricated and painted a huge metal flake. There's a snorkled 550 hp Duramax engine in there with two computers. The lift is massive, the tires are massive, the visual design is awsome..I just can't describe it...... really cool form follows function not just some mechanical hacking. He built one even bigger than the one I saw on the lift. It's the coolest, biggest outback inspired offroad build I've seen seen in person, and he's local! Drive down, and if it isn't there just look at the photos of that monster and the bigger beast he's built. He's at 1728 Helena 1 block east of chambers off colfax & chambers. I'll take a couple pix when I go down later this week. This guy is over the top. UPDATE:7-7-06 So..... does this qualify as over the top? This is the view from the seat of my lifted gl wagon! UPDATE:7-8-06 Well..... maybe that's not really over the top. How bout this one Nice grill - needs a few more lights though

Great pictures and feedback. Its generated more ideas. Some like the 2tone higher, some lower, some over the wheel flares, some not. So here's all the mockups in one place. The only thing I haven't done is a paint scheme that doesn't go over the wheel flares. I think outbacks around 2002 had it like that. Stock paint only 2tone painted similar to 2006 outback 2tone painted to bottom of door trim (bumpers included) 2tone above trim to door ridge (bumpers included) If you have firefox or safari, open the photos in separate tabs. They're exactly the same size...makes comparison easy. So far, I like the trim dividing the two colors the best. The silver keeps a straight line from front fender to bumper as well. What the hell, maybe a post for a poll is in order --E

2tone to the trim.... --E

Thanks for the pic!! Ah...I thought the loyale body started 86 but must be 85. Wagon looks GREAT. Gives me a good idea of light green. Is that metallic green? I've thought a lot about a bedliner on the lower 1/2, but I'd like a color that blends better with road dirt. In the next couple days I'll put up some more combinations.

Here's a mockup with silver trim similar to 06 outback. '06 outbacks I looked at have trim higher on front/rear fenders and lower at the doors. No outback blue, but the stock paint is close enough to get an idea. and before: I'm so used to the solid color, but the idea of a nod to the outback paint scheme is pretty cool.

Here's one draft: The blue & green look lighter in the real world. Both colors are 2006. Blue is outback "atlantic blue pearl", and green is tribecca "seacrest green metallic". The stock "rare" blue that I have is similar to 2006 blue but it has more indigo. Very similar. Here's some photos for reference:

[quote name=DrKrazyPics in this thread of my sedan: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58209 Thanks! I see you stopped at door bumpers and didn't go over the fender flares. Nice pugs. Mine are pretty beat up. I like the bumper & roof rack.

I'm looking for pictures of 86 and newer gl and loyale wagons with two tone paint. I'd like to see how two tone looks, but haven't found many photos on USMB. This fall & winter will be the 10th anniversary of the purchase and customizing of my wagon. I need to have rust fixed and get it painted, and I think the Beefaru deserves it after being so good to me for so long (and I finally have the money ha ha). Since it was built winter of 1996 I'm thinking of using 2006 outback paint scheme for it. Can't decide if I want two-tone or not. If so, not sure if I want to stop at the bottom of the door bumpers, and go over the fender flares or go up to the seam above the door bumpers and over the flares. Please post any pix you might have, and I'll put up a photoshop version if I have a chance. Thanks!! --E

I'm heading back home soon in my GL-10 from Indianapolis to Colorado. http://www.solo-act.com/pages/alb_beefaru/index.html Thought I'd try some parts yards near I-70 but know of none. Need to find a headliner and other parts. Thanks in advance for dropping some names and numbers! Eric

Bingo Put extra shims in front, loosened glass mounting nuts, slid the glass around till it was uniform on all sides, then I created a final "shim". At the curve in the front the seal around the window was flush at corners, but didn't come all the way forward. So I approached the rubber window seal from underneath and shimmed some material between it and window. That brought the seal forward a little. Fits good now. --E

Back inside for a sec. Under the plastic trim covers (once the damn plastic screws are out) and after loosening the mount bolts for the glass, the glass can slide around a little front to back and side to side. I'll stick another shim or two from the other sunroof assembly into the front shim and see how it fits. It seems they come "stock" with three shims on the back and one in the front. Anyone is welcome to jump in on this. -E

Hey gang, I put in a new sunroof assembly (why I don't know, I just searched here and learned that glass can be swapped in 10 minutes.) In the new assembly the gasket forming the seal at the front of the window fits in the corners, but sits too low in the middle. I read that shims can help with that, and I can experiment with positioning the window since the mounting holes in the sunroof unit allow some movement. Any other ideas or suggestions? Some posts said you just have to give it a little push up as it closes, but I'd like to not have to do that if possible. Thanks for any input. Eric http://www.solo-act.com/pages/alb_beefaru/index.html

waaaahhh..... I didn't know about the contest. Been too busy to check in. Here's one I thought would be good. And for nostalgia, From several years ago, a cozy shot from the inside after a hike getting some hot soup when the temp dropped and the rain came in. --E

When its hot outside, the compressor stops cycling off.....at all. It just stays on constantly. I searched some threads and couldn't find anyone with an "always on" compressor problem. I can switch it off manually from the dashboard, but on a hot day I have to cycle it manually turning on the compressor for only 10-15 seconds then I HAVE to manually turn it off or it gets stuck on. I don't believe its mechanically getting stuck since I can pull over when its "stuck" and simply unplug the clip while the engine is running and instantly the clutch kicks off. When it gets stuck on and manually turning it off doesn't work, I can kill the engine for about 10-30 seconds and when I restart it "remembers" that its supposed to be off. However that only works about 1/2 the time. So....long story short, on a hot day driving in traffic it stops cycling off automatically and I'm cycling the compressor at the dash having it on for only 10 seconds, and if it gets "stuck" on, I'm restarting the engine 1-3 times until it finally remembers to be unstuck. Not a fun commute. Its like it forgets to listen to the computer or the switches on the dashboard when it gets above 96 degrees outside. Cooler weather.....everything works fine. Last night at 82-84 degrees it cycled on and off via the computer just like clock work, and the dash buttons turned it on and off as well. Any ideas? --E

Don't forget the radiator conversion. I have a 1 year old EA82 radiator thats already been converted to EJ22 so the work is done for you. I'm selling it in This thread. --E

My sister is looking at options and is thinking of moving on from where she is now. She interned at JPL, and graduated with an Aerospace degree from Embry Riddel (sp?) and is working dark projects for the gov out of a Boeing satellite division (used to be Hughes space systems). Drop me a PM if you want. I'd like to pass the info on to her. --Eric

So THATS why my EJ22 loses so much oomph the last mile before Eisenhower tunnel in Co. --E

Just a reminder in case you didn't see my post you can save yourself ANY potential radiator headaches since I just happen to have a loyale radiator customized for EJ22 laying around. Put it in in April of 2004 and pulled it out the same month this year so its in perfect shape. --E

FOR SALE: I put this up in the marketplace, but probably wasn't seen by the retrofitting people. $100 plus shipping. Its a 2 row loyale radiator that has had the inlet/outlets changed to 1.5 inch legacy diameter. I ran my car for 1 year with this radiator so its essentially brand new with zero leaks and no problems at all. I bought it new for over $200 and it cost $100 to have the inlet/outlets converted. Have receipts for it as well. I believe it would be a shame to toss this radiator out, because someone doing a EJ22 into a loyale could really use this radiator. Here's the photo album Also for $30, I can ship the ultra low 2 inch clearance 14" spal fan with it. Its the lowest clearance fan on the market. Why selling? The way my engine was done, there isn't a lot of clearance in the front when using a 2 row radiator. Keeps the engine cool when not using A.C. even on a hot day. But when pulling a load and running A.C. on a hot day, I haven't been able to get fans that pull enough air without running out of clearance.....so I went with a 1 row aluminum radiator so I can have more clearance, pull more air, and run A.C. on a hot day without having any concern about heat at all. Remember this radiator works fine for cooling a legacy engine with NO problems, unless.... your radiator/engine clearance is 2" or less, you're running AC on a hot day, and your car is loaded with 400lbs of music P.A. gear. Under those circumstances I couldn't get rid of enough heat WHEN running AC on a hot day, so I just skipped running AC on hot days, and the car was fine. There's the info, post a reply if you're interested. --E

Yes that's mine. There's another shot showing it just after it was made and painted. --E

So THATS how it works. My rear was lifted like that, and combined with some suspension lift. http://www.solo-act.com/pages/alb_beefaru/albums/Alb_Mods/pages/07.html http://www.solo-act.com/pages/alb_beefaru/albums/Alb_Mods/pages/04.html http://www.solo-act.com/pages/alb_beefaru/albums/Alb_Mods/pages/06.html --E

I noticed that too, but have no clue how lifters address that. That forward movement in a body style that doesn't allow room for chopping is one of the concerns I had when originally deciding my lift height. --E

What about the rear diff? Doesn't that get lowered to help axle angles?

I'm cryin' in my cereal......... However, out of respect for that little beast I'd put up the drag numbers and mods somewhere as a tribute. --E

Just a thought..... I have an expensive suite of video editing software (final cut pro 4, DVD studio pro 3, Motion) and some decent hardware ($1600 mini DV deck, some big hard drives, motorized audio mixing board & pro studio audio software as well.) I actually have the gear to take peoples mini DV tapes, music CD's and still shots on CD and put together a fully edited USMB DVD that would be quite professional. I would have to receive something for my time, but it could be a worthy project and something everyone can enjoy. I'll have to come up with some kind of pricing on the DVD's but it could be done in a way that really rocks. Let me know what you guys think. --E