mudduck

Can't seem to get the drums off. Anyone got any tricks???

I would have to find a d/r tranny around here, which is easier said than done in this neck of the woods, and I can't afford to have one shiped.

Just wondering, but can the pushbotton be converted to a lever shift? I haven't had any problems with mine engaging, but I just don't like pushing a bottun to engage the 4wd.

My Loyale has always shook at idle until it warms up for a few minutes.

Run it open!! Don't weld up the rear!! Had a Toyota witha Detroit in the rear, and that thing was worthless in the snow and Ice. Also driven a Scout with a welded rearend and it was also really bad in the snow. Leave it open and you will be much happier in the winter.

Wish I could make it to Telico. I live just a few miles from Uwharrie. Fun stuff back there, alot of it to rough for a stock loyale, but still fun.

Don't know what NC your talking about, but older subarus, and even newer ones are kind of a rare site around here. Where is sparta at anyway?

I got it fixed. Didn't know you had to screw the pistin back into the caliper. Used needle nose plires. Car now stops alot better now with new rotors and pads than with warped rotors and pads that were done 1000's of miles ago. Time for a beer.

How the hell do you push the piston back into the calipar? I have been trying to do this for 2 hrs now with no progress. Help!!!

All a lock out hub does is idsconnects the wheels from the rest of the drive train. In a subaru, the rear drivetrain spins weather in 4wd or not. New jeeps don't have locking hubs, the front drivetrain just spins all the time. And yes, auto locking hubs suck. I would much rather just have everything spinning or jump out and lock in my hubs that always wondering if the auto locking hubs are working or not.

Ran my old Toyota without doors quite a bit. Great on noce days and out on the trail. Not so good when you have to drive 4 hours to get home in the rain and later blizzard conditions though. Still got a lot of thumbs up. I wouldn't worry about the unibody when running without doors. People have been doing it with XJ's (Cherokee) for years. If you do run doorless, get rocker panel protection!!!! I learned that the hard way. Doors don't fit quite right after the rockers fight with rocks!!!(but thats what the BFH is for, right?)

They are jerkin' ya around. Take it to a different store location, if there is one, or contact the manufacturer directally. There is no reson that the core should burst unless the radiator was defective when you got it 4 months ago.

I have about 220,000 on my 91 loyale 4wd and avarage about 29 mpg. Best I ever got was 35 mpg, on the freeway driving from Colorado to North Carolina

50 psi is way to much for the street on that car!! try running around 28 - 32 psi o the street. As far as airing down on the trail, I have never aired down the tires on my loyale, but on my old toyota 4x4 I would run 8 - 12 psi on the trail. Experiment with different tire pressures on the trail and see what best suits you for your vehical and driving style. Just remember, if you are going to air down for the trail, learn how to set the bead on a tire out on the trail, because without bead locks, you will pop a bead sooner or later.

That looks like it was a blast playin' in that mud. Does suck that your stereo got stolen. I had a bunch of tools stolen last winter when I got stuck and had to leave the car, though they left all my cb radio equiptment that was in there(over $400 worth of cb stuff)

The rear axle of broncoII"s and rangers areen't bad axles and will hold up fine for around a 31" tire. The t-case is not a divorced set up on the bronco II. The front axle, a dana 35, would be tricky to get setup on the front becaause it is a "twin traction beam" set up. Heck, for $10 buck an axle, it's worth at least picking them up just for the price!

Hvae a load test done. You battery might be almost shot. Do you have any aftermarket lights or stereo on when it is getting hot that quick? You should be able to touch it after just idleing for a few minutes. I have a stock alt. and I run a 200 watt "footwarmer" on my cb radio and it draws ALOT of power from the alt, but it takes a good while to get it to the point of where I can't touch it.

That is really a good idea. Alot of guys running rigs in serious mud and water run their intakes into the cab. I have seen quite a few dedicated mud trucks with this setup and it works great. They also mount the radiators behind the cab to help keep mud out of them.

I have a 91 Loyale with single range 4wd and 5 speed and its gotten me through some tough situations, but nothing to serious. Withot low range, you will be really working the auto tranny. If it were my dailly driver I would leave it stock and , get a second vehice for the really rough stuff.

Spinners are dumb.

I like round tires that hold air. Round because they roll better that way, and tires that hold air because I hate having to add air all the time.

I failed inspection when I mover to NC because of a small rust hole in the tailpipe. In Colorado, at least in jefferson co, there is emision testing, but as long as you pass emisions, they don't care what kind of shape the car is in unless its REALLY %$#@#ed up.

I like round tires, that have tread on them, and hold air.

If you have an old cat. just hollow it out. You should still pass the e test and they won't know if the guts are in it or not. They arn't going to pull it off the car to check.

They were around $40 or so at advanced auto parts when I was looking for rears for mine. You just replace the strut, not the whole assembaly.