montana tom

I'm Confused... (normal state for me ) You should have to put your foot on the brake pedal to shift from park to drive ??? I drive stick shifts , but most all auto trans will not come out of park without your foot on the brake.... you mentioned that the "power"light flashed ??? Did you mean the auto trans light ? Europe market cars may have differences from the american market.We do not have a power light. As Lucky Tex asked, have you tried cold starting the engine in neutral , then shifting to drive ? As stated the coolant temp sensor could be malfunctioning, not telling the ecu the engine is cold.

Check how tight the lines at your fuel filter and fuel rail are. Common issue in cold weather. They leak when cold and stop leaking quickly as it warms up. For code 420, There is a fix out there that works at least 50% of the time. Buy 2 , 18 mm spark plug anti fouler s, drill one out with a 1/2" drill . Remove the rear o/2 censer. Screw it into the drilled out anti foul... gently tighten. Screw that into the undrilled anti foul & again gently tighten (this is aluminum not stainless steel) Screw that whole assembly into your cat. Clear code and see if it comes back.... This keeps the rear o/2 warm and so the temp reading to the ecm does not spike. Its a cheap fix when it works.

Morris; I have several spare flex plates sitting in my shop. Good chance one is what you are looking for. Post measurements and I will see if I have one.

I have installed numerous jdm engines since the 1990's .Most were in subi's, they are fine engines for what you are buying.....( nothing beats a real rebuild) In over 25 years I had one engine (a toyota) go bad ... About 3 weeks and it threw a rod.... replacement by jdm company was swift with no questions asked. That block and head are still sitting in the engine shed, the head is actually still good.

Yes, that should work.

Just changed out all 4 struts on a 2001 obw, both right side struts were shot , both right side tires were going bald ... left side struts still held gas and both left tires still had usable tires. Alignment checked out fine. Yes, bad struts cause tire bounce and wear out tires.

I suspect a strut as well

You should only need to replace the stripped hub, the axle is hardened. On a front wheel, yes it could cause that, the power split sends most to the front. I would think that It should still try to move though. Are you sure the awd is working ?

Steve ; I roll the cam until one set of valves opens then I set the rockers on the other, close the first set and open the ones that you adjusted and adjust them. I then continue on with the other cylinder , rechecking the completed valves as I go, to confirm adjustment. Then on to the other head. A few minutes on glass and 150 grit and the heads are ready to go back on.

Yes, that is my preferred way of doing them during head gasket changes.

Had not heard of this, so I did a little checking.... 99% bad reviews, everybody claiming they are a ripoff. The few good reviews say very little , other than satisfied... Save your money this sounds wonky....

Look on ebay for a good timing set , six star bernie sells a good kit ... subaru OE belt and NTN tensioner ,NSK rollers (200858175013 ) $259.85 delivered. Or you can get the same kit with a mitsubeshi belt for $216.65 delivered (191939610590 ) You will be sorry if you end up with the china junk.

Cam gear might have gotten damaged at some point and just now broke... otherwise a broke cam is almost always lack of oil.

cam gear broke is my guess. Or the camshaft itself.

Bad Knock sensor will cause poor mileage. Use an ebay / rock auto cheap one , no need for OE part. Easy to change at small cost. other than that New NGK plugs , New NGK spark plug wires.Both cheapest thru rock auto. New air filter & your fuel filter won't effect mileage but good thing to change out before winter anyway. Run a can of sea foam thru for your injectors and try to buy ethanol free fuel.

Hard to tell but that looks like a charcoal canister,that would be part of the evap system. I'm not familiar with the newer subarus and their evap systems so i'm guessing here ..but it could be the computer was purging vapors from the fuel tank ?? even though it was off for hours ??

Any time the CEL comes on ,your cruise will flash and you will have no cruise control until CEL is off. Buy a code reader or go to a parts house and ask if they will read it for you. Then post back with the codes.

The main feed line could drain back only (IF) you have a bad hose or cracked plastic directly on top of the tank.

Yes, very bad idea to overfill past the pump click off. Evap systems can get really expensive to diagnose and repair ! Even if you are going past the click off ... there should be no leakage. As LT said look close for bad hose/ cracks/ loose pump bolts... something isn't rite ! Puddle in the morning is making me think your fuel line is draining backwards overnight ...

On your imprezza ..It may be easier to source a used motor, at least a good short block...rather than splitting the case.

Perfect ! Butyl rubber , I like it, ordering now ... should be delivered by mid week ! Thank You

I have tried option #1-3 in the past. It did not work well at all for me. I recently removed one from the wife's car that I had tried that very repair on several years ago . After cleaning and wire brushing it appeared that my original repair was still intact... it leaked like a waterfall ! Repair #4 ; The "sealing lips" ? do you mean the rubber /foam gasket ? This is the spot I suspected and GD confirmed. It looks to me, that water can run over the back of the plastic housing and then drip directly into the the heat vent holes molded into the top side of the lower light housing. If this is the sealing lips you mentioned then rtv or a home made gasket may be the way to go.

Has anybody found the true fix for this ? $380 for a new center light isn't happening.... $100 for a used one at the wrecking yard that might not leak... It destroys the 1157 bulb socket with rust... then, $56.00 for an 8" harness !!! per side !!! Sealing the body to the light housing with silicon ,might work for a time but it looks bad from day one. Removing the light bar shows no obvious leaks . I'm starting to suspect the sponge rubber gasket on each side could be the issue. Of course at the dealers that gasket has been discontinued... I did locate some nos online 16 $ each and ten bucks to ship. Are these rubber gaskets the fix ?? Anybody worked this out ?

Like any motor, high pressure oil at the main bearings & high pressure out to the cam shafts and then gravity feed back to the oil pan. G.D. 's method of cleaning the heads is the best ... easy, cheap, fast, and it works every time.

If they are not grooved then just change pads. If you are doing the parking brake consider changing out the spring / hardware pack at the same time.